You can always try this if you suspect key or the ews and are unable or do not want to check the error codes... This should at least get it to crank providing 12v to the starter...
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I actually sent that out to someone who is going to make sure my key is programmed to it correctly because I have only gotten answers such as check battery and grounds , when I stated that I have and everything else checked out . The battery I tried it with full charge and cables on it and same result . And had it tested said it was fine . But what are you doing with the red wire that looks looped ?
Jumping 12V from the red wire to the black wire to send 12v to the starter. the Red always has 12V, it's supposed to send 12V to the black one right next to it. If this doesnt allow crank still you probably have a bad starter. You would most likely have codes stored in the EWS or DME if it was a bad key or ews...
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Don't mess with hotwiring your EWS. Thats just a recipe for blowing crap up and possibly losing EWS sync.
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That is pure and utter bullcrap.
I gave you a whole long explanation of what to check to see if you have other problems and a whole damn long list of things that are required to crank the starter and a picture of a brilliant diagnostic tool that will show you exactly why the starter isn't being cranked, if it comes down to something EWS related. .
Leaping off the bridge to send out your EWS was not the first thing I'd have done, I'd have tried to get somebody with an INPA setup to scan the car as described and see what the actual problem is first. If you give it half a try there's almost always some guy around that can help with that. Of course it takes all of a 1/2 hour to install INPA and setup a cable on a PC too so thats also really an easy option if you can't find a forum dude who's close and setup.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Trust me when I tell no one around here is going to jus come help me with my car like scanning it with some special software and all that and not for free either if anyone did decide to help me so I’m kinda limited on the help I can get , that being said I have read your long post a few times over and over , so I had been talking to a few people and they pin pointed that the key can sometimes cause this problem , and I have a guy on YouTube who actually makes bmw keys and programs them specially with a ews tool and he is willing to help me out on this part , so when I get my key and ews back I can rule out a lot more as I know it will be programmed correctly .
Huh. Now isn't that funny! Cuz I kinda live "around here" and I help people all the time. Sometimes for free indeed, though if its a lotta ECU work and there are no face to face beers involved I sometimes ask for some pay. And I know a handful of other guys who are just the same (tho' the guys who help for free tend to have a bit of a d-bag screening process so... you gotta pass that...)
But best of luck with "the guy with youtube videos". I know whenever I need help or information, its always the first hit on a YouTube video search that is probably the solution to all my problems. Those guys are ALWAYS legit.
On a less snarky note, if it IS the key/EWS problem, then, sure, maybe that'll work for ya. There's just zero.zero evidence that that is the problem, so... its just a variation on parts shotgun, except you chose the least likely part to replace first.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Wow I didn’t even know you can see where people are located on here , I am new to the forums and actually never noticed that . So you are actually really fairly close . And lol it wasn’t my first hit on YouTube that I decided that anyone would help me that Is actually why I created the account here , I am just trying to gather much info as I can . And when I contacted the guy through text he offered his help and free of charge so I figured if this is my problem it is something I can rule out when he helps me get that part figured out you know what I mean ?
I still think it is your battery, can you check how old is the battery?
I don’t know the date on the battery , could be old , but I did take it to go get tested they said it was good battery jus needed to be charged and then they gave it a full charge for me , and no change . I suppose I can maybe try another battery when I get my key and ews back I sent it out to someone who is gunna check it out and re program it if it needs so , I jus feel like it was key because key did not spin to open trunk or glove box which I found weird
Trust me when I say this, GG knows his sh1t! Do not take his advice and disregard it. You should do a couple of things. One is find a schematic of the wiring for the starter system. Check all of that and make sure everything is plugged back in where it is supposed to be. Second is, and this happened to me. I had a similar situation as yours. I drove it to a store, came back out to start and nothing. All lights came on, but no crank. I had a fuse for the DME (I think!) blown. It was in the fuse box in the glove box on my X5 with the 4.4. So, check your fuses as well. All of them.
This is the 3rd no crank no start issue I know of after timing guide work. The other 2 have DME-EWS interface errors and invalid rolling key codes for all keys they have. One is an x5 4.4 and the other is a 540i touring...
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capebmw makes a good point. Small black box with 5 or 6 fuses tucked inside the e-box underneath your passenger-side cabin air filter housing.
Also, about that one key you have.... Does it have "remote" functions/buttons? If it were simply a valet key, it won't open the trunk or glovebox.
itskylet, us BMW guys help out who ever we can. When I lived in southern MA I'd have 6-7 guys over my house wrenching on cars. Capebmw and GG have been there in the past.
Dave I was down the Cape in Oct, should have looked you up.
Itskylet don't let that battery sit too long, if is on the edge of failure it might not hold a charge too long.
You've got a Harbor Freight in Attleboro and Fall River, pick up one of their battery chargers.
The Attleboro HF can't be more than 10 miles from you.
Last edited by JimLev; 12-18-2018 at 07:02 PM.
Key has all working functions such as lock ,unlock , alarm. But won’t turn the trunk or glove box . It’s weird , but yeah I take all info, help ,and advise and appreciate it and I keep it in the back of my head and never disregard anything anyone tells me. So thanks everyone who is here trying to help verrrrry much appreciated . I will run through all my fuses again I did a quick check they looked fine although I didn’t take em all out.
Good luck keep us posted if you get it resolved. I see you started multiple threads on this issue...
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Cool feeling that your familiar with the area , when I do get my key back with ews I will make sure all fuses are good and battery is 100% good and charged and will report back .
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Yea tried to keep the key part separate , to try to gather different answers cause it could be a few different problems, But I will keep posted for sure
First thing to check by me would be the engine ground stripe after working on the engine.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Yeah, maybe... perhaps there is a plague out there of guys who don't keep their batteries charged while the car is apart for a month. I always try to tell dewds not to try to start the car at all period until the battery has had a full fresh top-off after its been apart for along time.
That said, the key-corruption IS a fairly rare occurrence...
^^^ (and Martin is the real expert on key-EWS programming!)
But on the other hand, in this case it also seems like OP let his battery get pretty flat so... its possible. I guess we'll see when/if he gets his key and EWS back from the YouDude.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I was actually thinking this last night as I hear there is ground wire on passenger engine mount as I actually did spray a lot of break cleaner and degreaser on those because I am replacing those next and wanted to have less grime on it when I take em off , I don’t know if I hit the actual wire but would degreaser/break cleaner mess with the ground ?? Also the engine did move a little bit from me torquing down crank bolt with the belt trick , I don’t think that would make me loose ground but never know .
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Also do you know any other ground locations are other then the motor mount and one for battery in trunk ?
UPDATE : Turn out being ews and key , got it in the mail today put it all back in and bam started right up
Allrightallright. The YouDude saves the day. Carry on!
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
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