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Thread: No crank no click after timing guide job

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    No crank no click after timing guide job

    I did the timing chain guide job on 2002 e39 540i m62 with vanos , I also did all the chains and tensioners , all new gaskets for that , all new gaskets for intake , cleaned everything nice , blew any debris out of intake head part of motor where Intake attaches , had the cams blocks on the whole time never really moved , crank pin in flywheel , set the timing with tension on chain and pins out of tensioners on cams , got both vanos to read 0.00 .0.03 ohms then I torqued both cams to 93 and 83 ft pounds , then i install the ring plate on the vanos with the special tool that bolts on top timing cover to 36 ft pounds or so and then pretty much reassembled everything took the cam blocks off then the flywheel pin nothing seemed to have moved I had continuity before I installed everything , also probably 250 ft pound on crank bolt I have it all put back together then put battery cable back on and when I go to start the car it doesn’t even go click click click like it wants to start , it kinda jus makes a small click and I don’t know what to try first ? I got a charged battery at 12v please help

  2. #2
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    No crank after guides replacement ? Starter ?

    No crank no click after timing guide job
    I did the timing chain guide job on 2002 e39 540i m62 with vanos , I also did all the chains and tensioners , all new gaskets for that , all new gaskets for intake , cleaned everything nice , blew any debris out of intake head part of motor where Intake attaches , had the cams blocks on the whole time never really moved , crank pin in flywheel , set the timing with tension on chain and pins out of tensioners on cams , got both vanos to read 0.00 .0.03 ohms then I torqued both cams to 93 and 83 ft pounds , then i install the ring plate on the vanos with the special tool that bolts on top timing cover to 36 ft pounds or so and then pretty much reassembled everything took the cam blocks off then the flywheel pin nothing seemed to have moved I had continuity before I installed everything , also probably 250 ft pound on crank bolt I have it all put back together then put battery cable back on and when I go to start the car it doesn’t even go click click click like it wants to start , it kinda jus makes a small click and I don’t know what to try first ? I got a charged battery at 12v , job took over a month with battery disconnected , the battery was also disconnected after I started to unplug a few things don’t know if that would make a difference. It’s been pretty cold out while I been doing the job don’t know if my starter went bad maybe got a little corrosion ? I’m stumped just want to know what I can eliminate before ripped the covers off and messing with my timing assuming the tools on amazon didn’t do the job correctly. HELP PLEASEE names Kyle feel free to even text me if your willing to help 401-543-0442

  3. #3
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    First, before you dive back in, charge your battery. It should read around 12.6-12.9 V fully charged. I think 12V is what, about 50% drained?

  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
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    Your timing job shouldn't have anything to do with the starter not turning the engine over.
    Turn the headlights on and read the battery voltage, is it above 12volts?
    Maybe it's not holding a charge.

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    Ima going to further test battery later today , I’m new to the forum but I always come here for advice and I always see your on here with great info so thanks for commenting , is the wire that runs from the the top engine town past oil level sensor , is that wire to the starter ?

  6. #6
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    Yes, that's the one to the starter solenoid from the DME.

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    Any reason un plugging that would cause it to not start ? Cause I think I tapped the solenoid Or the starter motor whatever the lower part is under the car to try to get it to start quick before work and it did spark a little so maybe the motor don’t spin now cause I unplugged it ? Or the shaft I guess it’s called isn’t coming out to the fly wheel ?

  8. #8
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    Unplugging it and then reconnecting it would effect the starter operation as long as the connector is plugged in all the way.
    Check your battery like I said above.
    The smaller part on top is the starter solenoid, the lower pare it the starter motor.

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    If battery checks out fine , what should i check next ? My first initial start when I got the battery back in I jus tried to start it right away , I didn’t put it in the 2nd position and wait like some people say to do .. don’t know if that would matter either , also read few things about cars anti theft system maybe having to be reset ? Don’t know if that applies to the e39 540i m sport ?

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    Key not starting car ?

    So I recently did work to my e39 540i m sport 6speed put the battery back in and now it won’t start no crank no click , the key opens doors with buttons , but won’t open trunk or glove box but opens door and turns ignition , this key was the only key that came with the car , and was working and did start the car before , battery is fully charged , Opinions ?

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    Key not starting my car ?

    Key not starting car ?
    So I recently did timing chain guide work to my e39 540i m sport 6speed put the battery back in and now it won’t start no crank no click , the key opens doors with buttons , but won’t open trunk or glove box but opens door and turns ignition , this key was the only key that came with the car , and was working and did start the car before , battery is fully charged , Opinions ?

  12. #12
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    Anti theft would make the red light under the rear view mirror flash, along with likely an alarm. So what I would do is check and charge the battery first. These cars are full Democrat when it comes to voltage and all kinds of odd things happen when the battery/ charging system is less than perfect. Once battery is topped up (12.6-12.9), close all doors, trunk, hood and lock the car specifically by using key in either drivers door or trunk. Don’t use the keyless. Wait 10 seconds, unlock car with the key, make sure all doors unlock, and give starting a shot. If the issue was either voltage or security then should start right up. If it doesn’t, at least you can dismiss these as potential causes and start checking ground wires and fuses. Let us know how it goes


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  13. #13
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    Not battery , and I tried what you said no luck , I made another post about my key not opening truck or glove box idk why if it’s a valet key and has something to do with my problem ? But that’s the only key that came with car

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by itskylet View Post
    Not battery , and I tried what you said no luck , I made another post about my key not opening truck or glove box idk why if it’s a valet key and has something to do with my problem ? But that’s the only key that came with car
    Hmmm. Does the car chime once when you lock and twice when you unlock it? What did you do for the battery? Also is the red bulb on the bottom of the rear view mirror doing anything?


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  15. #15
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    Yes it makes a chirp kinda sound , but I seen a video saying key needs to be reprogrammed or something if you put the key in the 1st position and open your door it should ping ping ping and say key in ignition and my car does not . I don’t know
    If the e39 does that ?

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    This is a stupid question, you did remove the pin from the flywheel, right?

    Whenever I use that pin I tape a piece of paper on the steering wheel that says PIN!

  17. #17
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    Yes I crank over there crank bolt and it moves without any type of bind up

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    Locking and unlocking have nothing to do with starting the car. Does it click and all when trying to crank or there is no noise whatsoever?

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by purplecty View Post
    Locking and unlocking have nothing to do with starting the car.
    Yes and no... if the car thinks its still locked, the anti-theft system won't let the EWS start the car, but,
    I know that's not what you meant really, which was no, the key-pairing business has zero to do with starting the car, its a completely independent system.
    The only chance is, if somehow indeed the anti-lock is NOT fully disarming the car, then indeed the starter will not spin. But as said already, if the clown nose is disarming then that shouldn't be an issue.

    Itskybitskyspider:

    Have you scanned the DME for codes at all? While thats unlikely to do too much, its always worth a try and ensure the DME is booting and talking properly.

    EWS is the immob function/module. If EWS doesn't like the key in the ignition, or, if the EWS-Key sync gets borked*, then it won't crank the starter at all period.

    You'll find (maybe have) refs to sync'ing the EWS and DME in case of no start but that's only if you have crank and no start. If you got no crank that's a totally difft story.

    With INPA software (and perhaps some of the other BMW specific scanner devices...) you can do a really nice diagnostic and read live data from the EWS module and see if it sees the key and if it likes the key. In fact there's a real nice screen that shows you clearly if the starter is 'enabled' and if not, what the status is for each and every one of the pre-conditions. See pic below.

    Dependencies for EWS to spin starter include -
    • Key recognized AND good (aka a proper paired key w/ the EWS) *
    • DME alive and talking to the EWS (particularly important for automatic cars where the DME actually operates the autostart relay... doesn't apply here)
    • Car hasn't cranked too many times without a start (this is an EWS-DME pairing thing but it seldom happens unless you lost DME/EWS sync and just kept cranking over and over again)
    • Clutch has to be pressed to floor and switch working or auto has to be in neutral (on USA cars only cuz we too schtupit derpderpmurica#1)
    • Anti-theft/central-locking unlocked
    • No security code set in the BC (or there's a code and its been entered)


    Re: the key paring and the *'s above, it is possible for the key/EWS to lose their sync. This is different than the DME/EWS sync. However for this to happen you basically have to have had a super-super-dead battery, and tried to crank it on super low voltage, and then have had the EWS-key code write get corrupted or crash in mid process. This is possible, does happen, but, is still somewhat rare.

    Frankly I'm more inclined to think that you have a wiring problem like you didn't plug in that starter... or a blown fuse, or sunthin more pedestrian than that.



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  20. #20
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    I hear a few clicks like things turning on, but not the typical starter click , hard to tell

    - - - Updated - - -

    My battery is suppose to be 750 cca and I bet when I tried to start it it only had around 300 or so because yesterday I took it to get tested and was only reading like 280 cca . Current crank amps im pretty sure it’s called but anyway got home with battery fully charged at 760cca and still nothing . Also car alarm did go off a few times I’m garage when I came inside from working on it don’t know if that matters , it was shortly disconnected after that , but obviously disconnected after I shut off alarm

  21. #21
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    OK sounds like your battery sucks. Thats the simplest and most common answer.

    I know I gave all the other info above but you wont' believe how many guys come in with "NO CRANK!?!?! BATTERY IS FINE I SWEAR" stories and it very simply ends up being:

    - Actually battery was totally sh1t.
    or
    - Battery cable/ground was loose.
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    Quote Originally Posted by itskylet View Post
    I hear a few clicks like things turning on, but not the typical starter click , hard to tell
    …….
    You have a bad battery. Replace it, and keep it fully charged.
    Also, buy a battery charger/maintainer (it is only $20 at HomeDepot), but it would save you many headaches and un-necessary diagnostics and repairs...

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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    OK sounds like your battery sucks. Thats the simplest and most common answer.

    I know I gave all the other info above but you wont' believe how many guys come in with "NO CRANK!?!?! BATTERY IS FINE I SWEAR" stories and it very simply ends up being:

    - Actually battery was totally sh1t.
    or
    - Battery cable/ground was loose.
    But it’s fully charged now ? And still did nothing while cables were hooked up

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    You have a bad battery. Replace it, and keep it fully charged.
    Also, buy a battery charger/maintainer (it is only $20 at HomeDepot), but it would save you many headaches and un-necessary diagnostics and repairs...
    Even after a full charge with cables hooked up ? I read something before like if there first initial start the battery was really dead then it can cause ems to deny start to the starter and key may have to be re programmed to it again

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    Check error codes stored and report back if you suspect that...

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  25. #25
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    I hear a few clicks like things turning on, but not the typical starter click , hard to tell

    - - - Updated - - -

    My battery is suppose to be 750 cca and I bet when I tried to start it it only had around 300 or so because yesterday I took it to get tested and was only reading like 280 cca . Current crank amps im pretty sure it’s called but anyway got home with battery fully charged at 760cca and still nothing . Also car alarm did go off a few times I’m garage when I came inside from working on it don’t know if that matters , it was shortly disconnected after that , but obviously disconnected after I shut off alarm.

    --------------------------
    You could have figured this out 3 days ago, see post 4 above.....doh.
    Last edited by JimLev; 12-17-2018 at 08:42 PM.

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