Hey All,
Did a search but results didn't really speak to my symptoms.
So I've got my door panel off, and before I put it back on, I've got a bad feeling there's something going wrong up in the door handle mechanism.
Symptoms are as follows:
- very little resistance pulling handle up outside car
- only unlatches at the very tip top of travel
I tried snaking a camera up there but it's just impossible to see anything.
Anybody experience this before?
Your handle frame is fractured. This is very common from people using the handle to open the door, vs a door jamb, window etc + 20 years of service. The handles are made of this cheap ass pot metal and are very thin. The metal fractures, allowing flex in the frame causing additional pull to open (if your lucky) You will not see the fracture with a camera as the exterior cover is held on by a metal push rod that will obscure your view. Once this happens, your only recourse is to replace the handle. You can swap your key/tumbler into the replacement handle. There was a major change in handles in 95ish? The tumblers completely changed. You want the same version as what you currently have. I have good handles if you need one and more than likely way cheaper than ebay.
PM me if you want any additional information.
Dang, confirming my fears. It just looks like one of those jobs that's a royal pain.
Ok.
Adding the handle to my to-do list. I read they updated the structure with some reinforcement along the way. But I have a '92 so I wonder if they ever bothered updating the parts for it...Probably not.
Go on whatever diet makes your forearms the size of a newborn infants in diameter, or get used to skin chaffing pain. No fun at all...
JB weld??
I'd like to see the comparison pic! Use the bimmerforums file host that way it doesn't disappear a year or two down the line.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Too bad the DIY section lost the instruction and the photos of a door swap with re key process.
Here is what I still have from my ~2009 door install on a 95 IS
1, 3 ) Broken driver side
2) New design 2% more metal
4) Old key lock must swap wafers inside to new lock for same key use
5) new Key lock design
Last edited by gc325is; 12-14-2018 at 12:53 PM.
I think I am going to get a new one and fill the voids with JB weld to increase its strength.
Question: I have painted door handles... Is it possible to move the handle itself to the new assembly?
Last edited by xxxxxxx; 12-13-2018 at 09:38 PM.
You should be able to swap them over.
I wonder if my 10/96 build has the beefier design.
- - - Updated - - -
You might want to order a new plastic plug for the access hole on the latch side. Also a new grommet or bushing for the metal rod that connects the tumbler to the lock solenoid. The bushing on mine was damaged and caused troubled.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Yes there was a lock change. I have a 1995 which was also the old lock cylinder style. You can see the upper right a cotter type pin holding the lock on vs the new slug style. Both lock styles are not interchangeable within the handles so you must swap the lock wafers which are interchangeable. Or bring to a lock smith but the process is not hard just need to be careful with lots of small parts.
Hints from what I recall
2 door are harder to swap than 4 doors.
Some people say 3 hours are needed I say 1st time will be more. Especially since you will probably be repairing other items.
Buy new lock trim, door trim as you see fit. I also repaired the window sliders and the door cards at the same time. Re glued the speaker trim realigned the window swap the lock wafers. You can also do door latch repairs to if needed. It was over 6 hours in a 2 day spread for glue to dry.
Find a video on how to release the handle trim, no it does not pull off you release it from behind thru a special hole.
Watch a partial window removal video on 2 doors cars because I could not get the handle out without it.
watch Door locks, wafer removal if you want to rekey it yourself.
I found an old link to the DIY
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...eplacement-DIY
Last edited by gc325is; 12-14-2018 at 12:52 PM.
Hm.
So let me see if I have this right.
It's possible to use the later-style (96+) handle assembly on an early e36 (1992 for example).
I just need to swap the wafers from my old assembly.
Is that right?
Last edited by xxxxxxx; 12-14-2018 at 11:35 PM.
Yes I swap the old 1995 key wafers into the newer ~1997 style to match the rest of the locks. Took ~ 15 min but you need both keys and cylinder for each lock and a punch ( nail set works too with pliers) too pull the cylinder out. The shapes are different but the wafers are inter changeable. Just need to pull each one out of one and swap in the same order. Lots of wafer and lots of small springs so work at a clean area. Pre check if the key can be reinserted with no pin exposed = easy replacement of the cylinder.
Once out the cylinder can be rekeyed with different wafers
No key makes it harder to remove. A good lock smith can also fix things if you mess up and lose things.
FYI: I bought a new handle in 2010 was it still the 1997 version or another improved style since I hear 97 cars break also?
Last edited by gc325is; 12-15-2018 at 02:47 PM.
GC,
That's great info about the waffle swapping ability. Did not know that myself.
XXXX
I have both early and late assemblies if needed.
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