Who here gets their car aligned to their own specs?
If so, what are yall doing? Whos making big power and running stock alignment specs?
Ive been battling issues with stability and think my alignment is f'ed.
1989 535i - sold
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2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
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1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
For max straight line traction you flatten and square out the rear. But it won’t handle as well and you should think about that. Maybe max straight line is not what you want. For handling ask a racer like joenationwide.
If you add in a little bit of toe you'll probably be in good shape.
If you don't know where the current alignment sits I'd recommend aligning the vehicle as close to factory as they can.
From your description I would ensure everything in the rear suspension is in good shape. I've had some sketchy times with trailing arm bushings in various states of disrepair. You might want to consider one of the sealed spherical bearing options for that location.
Yeah it will. I've also had the trailing arms move so check that the bolts are tight.
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What drag radials? The softer and squishier the better the traction off the line but the less stable. R compound street legal race tires won’t be as forgiving off the line but will give good traction and be stable.
I do think you are onto something with the jacked up rear. Maybe flare and lower. A bigger front spoiler might help as well.
Ive got two sets; I have a set of Mickey ET Street R 275/50/15 and a set of Mickey ET street SS 274/40/17.
I initially thought it was just the 15s causing my high speed stability issues until I tried the 17s. The 17s are DEFNITELY an improvement, but still doesn't feel 'normal.'
My car is flared, and as low as it possibly can be and still fit big tires.
I am going to get an alignment soon and dial in some camber; Im gonna try -1 0 -1.5 in the rear paired with 0.10 toe in per side and 0 toe up front and see how she does. Im thinking that has to be my issue at this point.
Are you using limiters in the RTABs?
Honestly for high speed stability, the factory spec should be close to perfect.
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
Can you elaborate on what you mean by unstable and wandering? Is the rear wandering, or the front? Does accelerating, steady state or decelerating make a difference? What happens when you hit bumps? Is it worse over a certain speed (and then is it linear or is it solid up to a point and then starts misbehaving)?
Its most pronounced during hard 3rd-4th pulls. Cruising much above 70-80 is also mildly unpleasant; rear end feels like its "floating" for lack of a better word. Car sways from left to right, especially under WOT pulls, very hard to keep it straight without a lot of correction from the steering wheel.
Nothing noticeable while decelerating or going over bumps. Not sure if that is a good enough description, but the best way I can describe it is that the rear end feels very light and "floaty," and likes to wander left and right for no apparent reason. Annoying while cruising but kind of scary during hard pulls.
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My guess is that when you raised it you also got some toe out which will definitely cause instability. I would not recommend ‘stock specs’ as that would also give you too much negative camber. What I would suggest is 1/8” or 0.1° total toe in and 0°- 0.5° camber in the rear. For the front, 0 toe and 1° - 2° negative camber. You will be limiter for front camber unless you have installed camber plates. Having less camber in the front would be fine for what you are doing.
Don't do too much at one time or you learn nothing if it doesn't solve the problem. One thing at a time. Check rear alignment. What are your rear tire pressures? Going up might help make the car feel better when not racing. Are your dampers adjustable? You might have a blown or too loose a damper but you would know it with the car behaving badly going over bumps, esp when turning, it will want to hop to the side.
0 toe will actually end up positive toe in the front and in back slightly negative. You can get away with this in the back but you want - toe in front even if it's only a small amount. positive toe is uncontrollable.
1997 328is - Megasquirt PNP, Holset HX35, Deka 80lb injectors, SPA T3, Precision PW39 WG, Synapse Synchronic BOV, DKM Organic Twin Disc Clutch, Innovate LC-2 W/B, Mishimoto Intercooler, Mishimoto Catch Can, Mishimoto Rad, Devils Own Meth, Porsche 911 calipers with E46 M3 rotors, Corsa Exhaust
Your chosen tire isn't helping. What's the power level? Even with traction, the rear end can walk around a bit under higher horsepower levels. If you're needing a "lot"(whatever that is) of steering wheel input to keep the car on course, something isn't right, or you're spinning.
I gotta say I disagree. Toe is usually expressed as toe in or toe out. If the front wheels pivot aft due to FCAB deflection under drag or braking it will result in toe in on an e36. The amount of toe in will depend on FCAB stiffness, static control arm angle and spring rates. I have been running 0 toe on the street for years and love it. When I do track events I add a degree or so of camber which also adds a bit of toe out and the car feels great, far from uncontrollable.
Toe in is great for when you are texting, doing your lipstick and trying to find that french fry you dropped while cruising down the highway as well as causing your tires to wear out faster.
Im always game for a little road-fap.
Took my car in for an alignment yesterday, and after the dipstick tech stalled my car 3 times, asked another tech to pull it in, who stalled it once himself.... I was told they couldn't get the car on the rack. Which makes no sense to me as the car has been aligned plenty of times without issue. And my car is far from 'slammed.' Its probably close to stock height, honestly.. But regardless, figured they shouldn't be touching my car either way and left...
Last edited by rajicase; 12-19-2018 at 10:45 AM.
I get mine done by a buddy at the dealership. Im pretty slammed so i have to pull my front bumper off to get on the rack. Other than that there are never any issues. Those other guys are just tards.
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Yeah my car def is not that low. Ill take it somewhere else soon.
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