You you know how i can fix this?
I followed the tutorial but i ended up getting these errors when selecting ms 41 m52:
https://imgur.com/a/kw4HOOe
https://imgur.com/a/pCO55Yo
The com port is set to com 3 in both ini files, aswell as OBD as interface instead of ADS, on ADS nothing would even work.
I put both buffer in device manager to 1 instead of 16 and 14, (recieve and transfer rate)
It says ignition and battery is off, but i had ignition on, and i tried with car on.
Last edited by reeeee; 12-20-2018 at 10:41 AM.
Ignition detection doesn't work, so that's no problem. Interface should be OBD, not ADS.
You should use the MS41 (non-OBD2) version, but I think you already selected that one..
For getting INPA to run, best to ask in the Z3 forum, in the thread I linked before (with all INPA instructions).. Also include some more details like operating system, model laptop, etc.
In my case it worked immediately.
You can also experiment with the standalone version of testO, which doesn't need the EDIBAS/INPA installation and communicates directly with the com-port. See https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ime-graph-view for instructions and download-link (you need the standalone version).
Last edited by ed323i; 12-20-2018 at 10:51 AM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
I see this:
https://imgur.com/a/JCjKDVH
So I suppose it gets connection in some way?
ok so apparently the chip is CH340 and not FT232RL... I'll just return it and get a FT232RL from somewhere else if i found one....
Maybe thats why i got the error? or should it still work but not as good?
I also tested without the o2 sensors connected but still misfires as bad.
CH340 chipset will work once in a while, for short periods, and then you get connection errors.. Worthless. Best to get the FTDI one, that should work flawlessly the first time you try.
That the symptoms don't improve with O2 sensors disconnected, probably means the O2 sensors aren't causing your symptoms. But eventually INPA video/screenshots will give us a better shot at diagnosing the problem..
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Another weird thing i noticed, the hissing noise came back yesterday, i dont get it. And literally impossible to hear from where, i can just hear like front of engine near injectors/manifold/vanos/air intake area. I spray starter fluid without hearing anything, but will try again tomorrow....
Thought i'd just share this, shutting the door all the time during this video, making the window close - rpm change:
*NOTICE CAR IS WARM IN THIS VIDEO, AND MISFIRE AS FUCK WHEN ACCELERATING**
If it would been cold it wouldn't sound as bad neither or misfire
The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwlJrGXPjaM
When the RPM change - the sound becomes clearer as i said before.
I cant decide where it comes from, and is it now 100% a leak/hole in a hose? Becuase when RPM change - suck more air - leak?
And i couldn't get the ch340 chip to work, ima just send it back and get the FT232RL one.
Last edited by reeeee; 12-22-2018 at 07:40 PM.
Im not gone :P im waiting for the cable to arrive....
I found out today that the hissing noise (air noise that i think it is) gets louder when i have my headlights on, if i turn them on on idle the noise gets noticeable higher and idle gets rougher.
If i turn on the rear window defroster i hear some weird fucking noise also, comes from alternator ish. It is making the idle sound kinda rough
Last edited by reeeee; 01-02-2019 at 05:09 PM.
Has the alternator been an issue before? Sounds like the bearing or the pulley is going bad, possibly rectifier as well which will make a hissing-whining like noise like you’re describing. And it will get worse as the electrical load increases..
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Not really, but its so hard to tell becuase i believe theres vacuum leak noise same time as this, very hard to tell. I will take a look at alternator with volt meter.
I also sprayed starter fluid at everything i could get to and no rpm increase...
Yes I would just give it a quick test with all accessories running just to rule that out. That wouldn’t necessarily indicate whether the bearing is bad though
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Yeah thanks, do u also got a clue on why its misfiring when warm and making an hissing noise?
The hissing noise went away some days then came back, sometimes louder.
Noise also when warm.
I sprayed starter fluid all over and under intake so it should have sucked it in if there were a leak i believe.
But i didnt hear any rpm change.
Ok i just got the cable and read the codes and took a screenshot of all values,
first when i first started the car and then also when it had idled for 10mins.
Error codes that i checked for first: https://imgur.com/a/yvE9UZ1 (just scroll down to see all)
And keep in mind this is after i have been disconnecting the o2 sensors, camshaft sensor etc to see if it would run better.
This is the values first: https://imgur.com/a/Hy244iP
And this is the values after 10min idle: https://imgur.com/a/S9ouPHR, ALSO GOT 2 ERROR CODES AFTER CLEARING THEM, these are: 202 and 52 (pic of these in here also)
Here i recorded while the engine was running the cylinders (engine roughness) Take a look:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7DXj60nM48
One more
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvLCObbaPJY
Last edited by reeeee; 01-03-2019 at 11:08 AM.
And i saw this from the battery voltage, 14volt when i had everything turned off, headlights etc.
And it was 13.64volt when i put headlights and rear window defroster on.
What's the description INPA gives for the 202 error? (I couldn't find it in the screenshots)
All other errors are no problem (due to disconnected sensors). The 323i doesn't have an exhaust valve, but the 328i does, so you can also ignore that error.
Battery voltage at 14v low-load and 13.64 high load are just fine. No problem there.
The warmed up idle seems to flow too much air, if I compare it to my 323i.. But I'll double check first. Ah, wait, your idle is high at 788 rpm..
Can you redo the screenshot of analog values 1, but then at close to 700 rpm idle. Then we can compare values better.
Last edited by ed323i; 01-03-2019 at 11:25 AM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Yeah ill do it in a bit
And here is 202 https://imgur.com/a/y4j2CqZ
I got 202 and 52 when it was running and after clearing codes, so these are actual errors
Last edited by reeeee; 01-03-2019 at 11:31 AM.
Here is when its completely warm, i just took these screens Of everything, now codes are 202, 203. and also 52 on the shadow error as seen in pics.
https://imgur.com/a/3rDnqLC (17 Pics in here)
Pretty weird whats happening in engine roughness, all values change so fast and go so high, some stay on 0 also as seen in the video i posted.
Engine roughness is okay.. Just very slight deviations, nothing to worry about.
Okay, codes 202 and 203 are clear. Now we have to figure out if the DME is trying to add a lot fuel or if it's trying to subtract fuel.
If you leave it idling for say 10 minutes with MAF sensor and oxygen sensors connected, you should see values appear in analog values 2, the lambda integrator, additive and multiplicative adjustments. Then we can see what's really happening.
If the DME has to add a lot of fuel (positive values), it's very probably a big vacuum leak. But it could also be a fuel pressure regulator that gives a too low fuel pressure. Or bad MAF sensor.
If the DME has to subtract fuel (negative values), it can't be a vacuum leak (still can be there, but at least it's not the main reason). Can be fuel pressure regulator giving too high fuel pressure. Or bad MAF sensor.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Sorry if im misunderstanding but the MAF and o2 sensors are connected already.
I think that lambda sensor is bad and ecu knows this and went into safe mode making it misire instead of running like pure shit, can this be? So when i disconnected them and it went like shit is becuase its safemode?
Idk if this possibe but just a thought.
Last edited by reeeee; 01-03-2019 at 02:43 PM.
I wasn't 100% sure you had the O2-sensors connected, because no fuel trim values appeared at analog values 2 (which is exactly what happens when no O2-sensor is connected).
The fact that the error 202/203 appear on both banks of cylinders, the chances of both the O2-sensors being bad are very, very slim.
Try and get a good reading of the fuel trim that the DME learns.. Once warm, and if you let the engine idle for some 10 minutes (with all sensors connected), the fuel trim values should appear, and that (it being positive or negative) will help a lot in diagnosing the problem.
P.S. MAF sensor air flow still remains a bit high.. My 323i, and another youtube video of a 323i, only flow 11.5-11.75 kg/h when at warm idle at 700rpm. Source: #43 .
So, if you could get your hands on a known-good Siemens MAF sensor, please try that one and see what values that gives. (I have the original Siemens MAF sensor, and yes, I still don't trust your non-Siemens MAF sensor).
Last edited by ed323i; 01-03-2019 at 05:23 PM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Ok got some spicy news.
I tried my Siemens MAF that i had before, and let it idle for 10mins.
I can hear that it now misfires at idle sometimes, with this siemens MAF.
These are the values: https://imgur.com/a/6LmUGch
Notice that the MAF is now 13.25 in this pic.
And here is a video showing all values while running, and in this clip u can hear how BAD is misfires AT IDLE with this MAF: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-rarTJbc0E
The cylinder 4 on roughness went all way to 7000.
I had someone giving it throttle and values on roughness was like cyl 1 and 5 was 3k, cyl 4 - 3.7k, cyl 3 - 800, cyl 6-1200, and cyl 2 - 0.
- - - Updated - - -
As you can see in this video also, the maf was at 12.5 when it had runned for a longer time
And now i see fuel control 1 and 2 is on, which they werent last time i checked and fuel trim values can be shown, at least some.
But maybe its warmer now idk.....
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