Hi everybody, hope this is in the right place and nice to be on the forum.
I have recently bought a 318Ci coupe 2002 (N42?)
I have read some of the related topics to my issue but to no avail.
After fixing the coolant leaks and fitting a new door actuator I now have another problem.
I have had cold starting issues when the car has been left overnight. The car would crank and stumble to life after four or five minutes of continuous cranking rough idle.
Also had a lack of power.
I pulled the codes and got P0341 camshaft sensor circuit / range performance.
I went and bought a camshaft sensor off fleabay which of course didn't work.
Then I got a HAAS part from eurocar parts which worked for 48 hours
Latest one is made by "Delphi" cost about 80quid and is what was in there before (same part number)
Performance is better and acceleration is back to normal but it still struggles to start.
Surely if it had a Delphi sensor in before it should be happy with one now?
After re scanning my engine I now also have a pending P0012 retarded timing code.
Also, I can't clear the p0341 code at all.
Can anybody help me with this? Also can anybody suggest a UK supplier of OEM parts?
Thanks in advance.
Hi, Pattoj, and welcome to the forum.
Allow me to begin by telling you that OBD codes are useless, at best. These are bureaucratic emissions codes which are completely generic, and will usually lead you in the wrong direction, when diagnosing a BMW. There are excellent and reliable BMW specific devices for reading the BMW diagnostic codes in your computer.
All that said, all I have are P-codes, so let's tell you what might be amiss:
For a cam sensor CIRCUIT code that will not clear, you likely have a bad wire or wires. Peel back the rubber boot on the cam sensor plug, and see if you see anything melted. Alternatively, maybe the wrong plugs are connected at the wrong place. What are the wire colors at that connector?
It's not an engine which we have in the US, but I think I can look it up for you.
Or, you can do it yourself, if you understand electrical diagrams:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
You're really going to need a BMW specific diagnostic device, or BMW specific diagnostic program on your laptop, to begin to know what's going on, unless you find a blatant fault in the wiring.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks for your reply bmwdirtracer.
I was slightly dubious about the code I found with it being an OBD2 App off the play store an all.
It's strange that it worked perfectly for the first day or so, but like you say it could be a wiring fault so I'll check that first.
Was worried it was vanos or skipped timing chain or something. I got the car relatively cheap so I'm not going to spend hundreds and hundreds of pounds on it. It has 121k on the clock but has had new spark plugs and coil in 2018 July and the old owner had it serviced and looked after.
Thanks again!
Well I've checked the wiring and it all seems undamaged and connected.
I also spoke to a mechanic who basically said don't spend any money on it because it's most likely the vanos is failing and for what the cars worth and it's milage it's not worth doing.
Looks like it's time to get rid!
Unless I clean the vanos actuators..
I haven't heard any death rattles either..
You need a better diagnostic completed. The local bloke isn't going to be able to help you with this, so you have to find a BMW shop. Also the brand of the sensor can play a big part in this, for cheap stuff cannot work properly for very long. With that thought in mind, the only 3 manufacturers I trust are: Bosch, Siemens, Hella, all others normally will fail pretty quick.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Yeah, "most likely the Vanos is failing" is NOT a diagnosis...it's the words of someone who's in over his head. In fewer words , that is "I don't know"..
Take the car to a BMW specialist technician / shop.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Yeah, I was shocked to hear this news, may have jumped the gun a little to think to sell it!
I've been looking at the wiring on the front of the engine, vanos connector seems loose on the top one(intake?) It has some play in the socket (at least I think it's Vanos) I jammed a pair of needle nose pliers behind it while being careful not to end up with the pliers fouling the belt. Seemed to start fine. Prior to this I did a test crank which of course didn't fire. Wether the test fire primed it somehow I don't know.
I'm just trying to get some solid log of exactly what's happening before it goes to specialist.
So far I have (failure perameters)
It has to be left for at least one hour after driving.
It ONLY fails on initial ignition, once fired it's fine
Been monitoring fuel consumption this week and performance, fuel consumption is lower (on the dials aka I haven't had to put more in when I did before) but mpg monitor suggests a worse fuel economy than before. 25mpg urban.
My acceleration seems consistently okay (although not amazing)
Hope to get to the bottom of this or its back to a Peugeot 206!
You are on the right track, as weak connection points can cause intermittent problems. As for the lack of power, well you have a 2t car being pulled around by 140BHP, so it will be slow. If you want a fast car, you will need to get a 6-cylinder to start and not a 320i.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Bookmarks