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Thread: Pulling Transmission - Any Other Items to Replace

  1. #1
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    Question Pulling Transmission - Any Other Items to Replace

    I'm replacing the clutch and flywheel and will pull the oil pan to address the oil pump nut. After a few years my shifter stopped sticking to the right so the shift-pins probably don't need to be replaced. Any other projects I should look into before track season picks up again?

    FYI:
    transmission and motor mounts are about 3 years old
    -Phil

  2. #2
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    When I did mine, I replaced the shift linkage wear items: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Shift-Linkage

    You will likely need to install a new shifter seal if yours is leaking and letting oil run down from the top of the transmission. You don't have to remove the old one; just install the new one pressing the old one farther in.

    I also replaced the shift pins, motor mounts, and transmission mounts, which you have already considered. I'm fairly certain I used E46 transmission mounts, which required enlarging the holes slightly.

    I installed new shaft seals on the input and output shafts of the transmission, plus the engine rear main seal. I can appreciate that most would not do that if they weren't leaking, but I had plenty of time over the winter.

    You should install an aftermarket stainless-steel braided clutch hose while you're there. I also replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders, since they had many, many cycles on them.

    You should consider replacing the clutch fork pivot, which is plastic and cheap. You can install an aftermarket stainless steel one, which I understand can squeak, but mine never has.

    Of course, you should replace the giubo. The nuts are one-time-use, so I would replace the nuts and bolts at the same time. Speaking of bolts, I replaced nearly all of the fasteners that I removed, but I live in a salty area and mine were corroded a bit.
    Last edited by Blacklane; 12-10-2018 at 08:46 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I'll add those seals to the list. There's a stainless steel clutch line installed and I already replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders.

    The projects will be spread out through the winter. Like most projects, I'm sure I'll find more issues as I pull things off. LOL
    -Phil

  4. #4
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    Did I read this right?

    [QUOTE=Z-Thrizzle;30161699]”...... After a few years my shifter stopped sticking to the right so the shift-pins probably don't need to be replaced...”

    Say what? This auto-corrects? How long do I need to wait?

  5. #5
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    There is a good deal on Blue trany mounts with cosmetic defects, stiffer then stock.

    http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/cosme...air-p1952.aspx

  6. #6
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    Output shaft seal, shift shaft seal, rear main seal, Giubo, DS center bearing.
    I’d do the shift pins, plastic shift lever cup.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    ...it depands
    Also, be sure to add the better material Clutch Fork Pivot Pin if not replaced already!
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
    - Zach

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevan View Post
    Also, be sure to add the better material Clutch Fork Pivot Pin if not replaced already!
    Ya, OE is plastic, aftermarket pin come in brass or aluminum depending on where (online) you purchase it from.


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  9. #9
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    The nylon pivot is far superior from a longevity standpoint. The bellhousing is a very gritty environment. Metal on metal wears faster than metal on nylon.


    /.randy

  10. #10
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    Randy,

    I’ve sheared nylon pins on cars with heavy pressure plates, if the clutch is upgraded I’d replace the pin regardless, especially on a car that sees track use.

    There is a stainless pin sold through BMW, off of a 6spd 8 series. It’s cheaper (~$20) than the aftermarket alternatives

  11. #11
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    [QUOTE=jdjkelowna;30162411]
    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Thrizzle View Post
    ”...... After a few years my shifter stopped sticking to the right so the shift-pins probably don't need to be replaced...”

    Say what? This auto-corrects? How long do I need to wait?
    Yup it seems over time. it stopped sticking. This is probably after 4 years and a few transmission fluid changes. Not sure if you want to wait that long. It was probably the fluid changes that helped it.
    -Phil

  12. #12
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    The shifter lean was caused by the LT-1 fluid swelling the teflon bushing linings. I suppose if you removed the fluid, the linings will eventually wear or contract back to the original clearances.


    /.randy

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtsquirt View Post
    Randy,

    I’ve sheared nylon pins on cars with heavy pressure plates, if the clutch is upgraded I’d replace the pin regardless, especially on a car that sees track use.

    There is a stainless pin sold through BMW, off of a 6spd 8 series. It’s cheaper (~$20) than the aftermarket alternatives
    Got p/n?


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  14. #14
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    I have a brass pin and it rattles at idle FWIW. I'd use a nylon pin again given the chance.

  15. #15
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    I have taken several transmissions out with ranges of use from track only, to daily drives, I have yet to see an issue with the nylon pivot pin. Just sayin.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    The nylon pivot is far superior from a longevity standpoint. The bellhousing is a very gritty environment. Metal on metal wears faster than metal on nylon.
    Thanks, Randy. That is really good to know, I was actually kicking myself for not going with brass one while I had the clutch reapced (back then, I didn't know that brass or aluminum ones existed). I guess I was lucky.
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
    - Zach

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