M3 Parts for my E36 328 Track Rat

[wake74]

So my off-season rear end rebuild project on my E36 328 track rat was complicated by the purchase of an E36 M3. Both are sedans, the M3 is an Auto. The M3 is rough but it was cheap, cheap, like too cheap not to purchase. The track rat is on a full GC M3 race coil-over set-up with Hotchkiss front sway, stock 328 rear.

So the M3 is now on stands in my wife's parking spot in the garage (that's really popular this time of year), I need to strip off what's useful, and send the rest to a scrapper ASAP. It really sucks going back to working on your back. The track rat is on the lift with the rear already off.

So far my plan is:

- Swap all four spindles. Luckily my new front hubs / bearings are the same for M and non-M. The rear spindles will get new ball joints and bearings while they are out.
- Keep the half-shafts. The M3 ones have less play than the ones in my track rat currently. I'll do the boots probably and fresh the CV grease.
- Pull the brake calipers and holders. These will get new seals. I will re-use my existing SS hoses.
- Swap the brake master, as I think it is required to get the M3 pedal pressure correct.
- Pull the S52 and set it aside for now. Warm compression is good, 170-180, but it needs every gasket and seal replaced. It's a leaky beast. My plan is to just do the M3 spindle/brake and LSD work first, and run an HPDE or two with that, before messing with the engine swap. One change at a time.
- I've already pulled the LSD, not marked but should be a 3.38 I believe. I've also got a known good 3.64 LSD, I'm probably going to swap the 3.64 in first to try it.
- Pull the EWS, DME, and keep the key. Although I understand that the DME won't be too useful to me, as it's programmed for an Auto. I'll have to pick up a manual one, or buy one of the many tuner versions out there.
- Pull the gauge pod.

Questions:
1. Anything else I'm missing that I should grab off the shell before it goes to the scrapper?
2. Anything I should know about the master cylinder swap? Presumably I should bench bleed it after I remove it.
3. I'm a bit confused by the control arms on my 328. The previous owner did a lot of work to it so I think it already has M3 control arms. I'd like to re-use them. The ones on the M3 are beat. Pics are attached. I can find none of the typical BMW part numbers.

Thanks!

Glenn

[bluptgm3]

What year M3? It is a Sedan, so 1997 or 1998?

Difference between '95 and '96+ E36 M3 spindle?
All E30 models (including the E30 M3, with later years using aluminum control arms), E36 non-M3 models and the 95 E36 M3 use the same control arm geometry. In other words, the arms are geometrically/functionally interchangeable. For example; the 95 M3 or the E30 control arms can be used on the non-M3 E36 models in order to eliminate the rubber isolated outer ball-joints that are used on these models. NOTE: The Meyle Heavy-Duty control arms for the non-‘M’ E36 models also eliminates the rubber isolated ball-joints. I also understand that the all E36 specific CAs got a slightly larger inner ball joint to handle the additional chassis weight.

The 1996-99 E36 M3 control arms have different geometry than all of the other E30 and E36 models noted here, including the 1995M3. The outer ball-joint and spindle mount is 10mm forward of the positioning for the other 3-series models. Additionally the Spindle to Strut attach interface changed (boss for LWR attach for lower two bolts got thicker) resulting in the tire 'tilted' closer to strut body.
This change combined with the Upper Guide Support revisions aft/outboard and Centered FLCA Bushing yields more camber at full steering lock, and the strut in static position sits more upright.

Note that the offset control arm bushings that are used on the E30 M3 and the 1995 E36 M3 are used to increase the positive caster. The 1996-99 E36 M3 accomplishes this by changing the Control Arm/Spindle/Guide Support geometry (as noted above) and using centered control arm bushings.

All p/n's pulled from realoem-dot-com
1995 Strut
LH STRUT 31312226987
RH STRUT 31312226988
REAR SHOCK 33522227794

1996+ Strut
LH STRUT 31312228007
RH STRUT 31312228008
REAR SHOCK 33522228415

95 M3 Spring “Hat”
UPR SPRING PLATE 31332227348
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523

96+ M3 Spring “Hat”
UPR SPRING PLATE 31332227903
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31332227902
Canadian cars SPRING PAD UPR 9MM 31332227901

Bearing/Guide Support/LCA/LollyPop/LCAB p/ns -
95 M3
L/R GUIDE SUPPORT 31332228345
LH WISHBONE 31122227249
RH WISHBONE 31122227250
LH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139789
RH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139790
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129064875

96+ M3
LH GUIDE SUPPORT 31332227897
RH GUIDE SUPPORT 31332227898
LH WISHBONE 31122228461
RH WISHBONE 31122228462
LH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139789
RH WISHBONE BRACKET 31121139790
RUBBER MOUNTING WISHBONE 31129069035

Splindles
95M3
LH KING PIN 31212227357
RH KING PIN 31212227358

96+M3
LH KING PIN 31212227907
RH KING PIN 31212227908

325
Guide support 31336779613
UPR SPRING PLATE 31331135580
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
LH WISHBONE 31126758513
RH WISHBONE 31126758514
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129059288

328
Guide support 31336779613
UPR SPRING PLATE 31331135580
SPRING PAD UPR 3MM 31331128523
LH WISHBONE 31126758513
RH WISHBONE 31126758514
RUBBER MOUNTING F WISHBONE 31129059288

Rear Spring Pads
SPRING PAD LOWER 33531135420
UPR SPRING PAD 5MM 33531136385
UPR SPRING PAD 7,5MM 33531136386
UPR SPRING PAD 10MM 33531136387
UPR SPRING PAD 15MM 33531094754
UPR SPRING PAD 21,5MM 33531091599

E30 M3 Control Arms
LH ALUMINUM WISHBONE 31121130823
RH ALUMINUM WISHBONE 31121130824
LH Steel WISHBONE 31121127725
RH Steel WISHBONE 31121127726


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