I've had this issue for the past three winters at least. When the temperature is below 20°F (-6.667°C) the car runs poor; most noticeably when idling, but the problem persists under load. This problem continues even when the engine itself has warmed up.
Winter is upon us again and the first really cold day and, like the crazy ex that won't leave you alone, the issue is back. Finally bit the bullet and bought a peake code reader to see if I can put this to bed once and for all. The problem is I have no idea where to start troubleshooting.
I plugged in the code reader and the output is as follows;
11
FF = evap tev stuck open
EE = misfire cylinder 1
--
I'm not sure if the FF code is live or not, could be that since the codes were cleared last I didn't secure the gas cap all the way.
Needless to say, made sure the gas cap was tight and cleared the codes. It has warmed up a bit so the issue hasn't shown up since, but I've got no doubt it will.
Some relevant history:
-2015-
Replace the spark plugs and connectors
Replaced all O2 sensors
I've searched around and the closest thing I've found is this thread. Before I dive in I wanted to ask for help and see if anyone have any suggestions on where to start?
- K.rool
Well if the evap purge valve is stuck open then you should test it, unplug the vacuum line from the valve where it connects to the manifold, with the engine off - blow through the hose, no air should pass, if it does it needs to be replaced.
For your misfire, confirm that the spark plugs for cylinder 1 is torqued properly. Also you can remove the plug to make sure it's in good condition, for example when you installed it the electrode didn't get crushed, check the gap. Then you have to do some basic testing that the injector is good and that the coil is good. So you can compare the resistance of injector 1 to 2. For the ignition coils, simple resistance checks arn't sufficient, but you can do it anyway, but if they are original you should just replace all 6, ebay has full sets brand new for little money.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Here is a set of new coils, the seller doesn't include the 328i in his list but the item number are correct for us.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-6-Hi...4/273595155760
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
You can also reset the codes and swap coils #1 and #2, and then drive for a while, and recheck the codes. If the code moves to cylinder #2, then you know you need a new coil (or perhaps the rubber insulator of the coil which can be replaced separately).
You could also do a compression test on all 6 cylinders and see if the results are all virtually identical (few percent difference) for all 6. If #1 compression is a lot lower than the rest, then you have found the (potentially expensive) cause. But start with the easy stuff above.
P.S. In august I also bought a set of 6 very cheap new coils (mine were from Stark Autmotive, 80-90 euro for 6 pieces, link) and they have been sparking along happily ever since.
Last edited by ed323i; 12-10-2018 at 06:43 PM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
I haven't had a chance to look under the hood quite yet, but I decided to go over my service records to see if the ignition coils had been done. Didn't see any indication of it, but I did see this from some service I did last year.
TANK VENT VALVE ENGINE COMPARTMENT - $102.73
The price and description seem right which leads me to think it has already been replaced. I'll still do the blow test to confirm though.
I'm a novice mechanic at best so I did some digging to get a better idea of were in the engine compartment this purge value is, and I found this youtube video and this forum post helpful.
Also went on this page on realoem to get a better idea and found the diagram pictured below to be helpful.
Still don't have a clear idea of where this thing connects to the manifold, but I should be able to piece it together when my head is under the hood.
As for the misfire, the ignition coils could very well still be the original parts installed in Germany back in 1996. I've had the car since 2011 and haven't done them and I doubt the previous owners had either.
I don't have the torque wrench or the spark plug socket to do the job at the moment, so I'll be shopping around the next few days to pick those up.
K.rool
here is a drawing and the location http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_1709
check if the wire loom is connected to the plug of the breather valve.
I explained the function in detail here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...breather+valve
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
As a novice mechanic understand that brand new parts do go bad and a 1yr old part is no longer new, so it should be tested. There are a lot of aftermarket brands for the e36 that are garbage unfortunately. Even big retailers that sell re manufactured parts like alternators and starters often fail very early and some are actually DOA.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Just did the coils, boots, and spark plugs and the the 328i is running like butter now. Only time will tell if the misfire is solved, but judging how much smoother things are my guess is it is fixed. Thank you Eric93se, shogun, and ed323i couldn't have done it without your help.
One issue that popped up while doing the job was the plug in cylinder 3 was drenched in oil so I've got to do some research on what could cause it. I'm thinking valve cover or head cover but I still have a bunch of reading up on causes before I start throwing parts at the problem.
I'm going to check the breather valve tomorrow, but the code popped up again today so I am guessing it is bad.
I'll post some pictures tomorrow too.
K.roll
Cool! Great news! Glad we could help.
I think it's the valve cover, and specifically the two parts in the middle, that cover the spark plug holes:
s-l300.jpg
If those are leaking, then oil seeps in the spark plug holes.. Luckily, an easy fix.. Perhaps best to replace the entire valve cover gasket. Look up some posts on that topic in the forum, because it actually needs a bit of liquid gasket in some places to work properly..
Good luck!
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
Here's a good valve cover DIY. Be sure to get new grommets with the VCG purchase, stick with quality parts like Felpro or OEM bmw.
https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/valve_cover_gasket
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
I pussed out on the eBay route and went with the Bosch plugs and boots. A lot more expensive, but the vendor is near me so I got them quickly which is nice and would have some recourse if the part was off in some way.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1227030081
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1354489085
A lot has happened,
After doing this both the misfire and the evap code were still coming back. Decided it was beyond my depth and took her in to a shop.
Had them do the valve cover, evap valve, and the spark plugs (again).
Drove for a bit but the check engine came back this time it was evap shut off valve. Took her back in and they replaced that valve. Drove some more but the check engine came back this time it was evap shut off again. Took it back and they dismantled the system and found a bunch of spiderwebs in the lines which they cleared out.
The evap codes havent been back since, but this weekend the misfires were back (cyl 1, & cyl 2). From what I understand fuel injector is the next possible cause. I am going to take her in Monday and have them give that a shot. To top it all off had the defroster on and the windshield cracked on a chip that I had had fixed.
Guess when it rains it pours.
Photos as promised, delete spaces to make it work
http s://im gur.com/a/BsYUmvG?s
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