Posting for the first time, so please bear with me
The "check engine" warning lit up on my 1997 328i (185000 miles). Before I had a chance to check the error codes, it disappeared. In a few days (less than 100 miles of driving), it came back on again with slight loss of power and jerking. The ride is not smooth any more, slight jerking every once in a while, particularly when it is cold.
I went to Autozone to get the error codes checked, they are:
P1188 Fuel Control (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1250
P1189 Fuel Control (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
The shopkeeper suggested to replace MAF sensor as it appeared on their computer system automatically. I found it odd since there are 3 codes, none of them mention MAF, and yet the suggestion is to replace it. Instead of replacing it right away, I wanted to try cleaning it.
1) With electronic contact cleaner I cleaned the MAF sensor, air-dried for half an hour, and put it back. I drove for about 10 miles, the light didn't go off and the drive quality didn't improve.
2) While the engine was running, I unplugged the MAF sensor cable, nothing changed. A youtube video I came across suggested that if the engine doesn't stall once you unplug the cable, it means the MAF sensor is faulty. So, I ordered one online, waiting for it to be delivered.
Now, the questions:
Does anybody have a similar experience?
How can I make sure there is no vacuum leak?
How can I make sure the fuel filter/pressure regulator or fuel pump is not causing the trouble?
More importantly, does the generic OBD reader at Autozone work for BMWs?
Thanks in advance,
Novice DIYer
Moved to E36 general from E36 DIY
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
The maf sensor is part of the fuel control system so it could be the cause. Usually when the maf sensor goes bad the fuel trim will run lean across both banks.
Edit: just saw you've already examined the sensor a bit. Check your intake boot for cracks as well
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Last edited by XnWarden; 12-10-2018 at 11:36 AM.
Thank you, XnWarden! Here is an update:
The new MAF sensor came in the mail and I replaced it. Nothing changed. As I mentioned earlier, I had already cleaned it with electronic contact cleaner. So, it is probably not it.
I took the intake boot out an visually examined it, it looks relatively new. I tried to patch together a smoke machine to see if there was any leak. It didn't work well. I will try to try it again.
All said, the car doesn't feel very jerky now. Either I got used to it, or the code doesn't clean by it self. I ordered a code reader. I will try to reset the codes while trying to troubleshoot it.
Does it make sense to change all the rubber hoses and fittings etc?
I would have checked fuel pressure at the rail before anything. You should do that
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+1 on what XnWarden wrote.. Check fuel pressure.. If it's off (could be too high or too low; should be 3.5 bar under load and 2.8 at idle), then it could be the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.
You M52 fuel rail has a nice nipple to which you can connect a fuel pressure tester.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
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