error 115

[328 Power 04]

The 107deg C outlet temp is correct and normal.

[bmwdirtracer]

Sometimes I read, but don't manage to force myself to believe. Abel has pointed out, in the document shown from TIS, that the UNAIDED thermostat opening will be at ECT sensor readings of 107C or even slightly beyond. I am not accustomed to seeing these temps, I'm guessing because the DME typically heats the wax ball and opens the thermostat slightly earlier.

Therefore: Thank you Abel....again! Eller, your thermostat circuit isn't working, but it IS quite likely that the rest of your cooling system is okay. Given that the thermostat has already been replaced with an OEM part, the DME is probably the culprit, if your wiring tests were correct.

[328 Power 04]

Typically ECT and engine temps are some 5 deg C lower than the outlet temp, so it's 'okay', but the dme will open that thermostat earlier, if it were working correctly. They aim for some 99 deg outlet temp in the tune.

Reverse flow cooling really changed things.

[eller]

Quess i need a new thermostat then.

[eller]

.

[eller]

i've already tried two thermostats, a cheap one, and a more expensive one with oem code.
There is even more expensive thermostats out there wit, and i think i need to go for one of those expinsive ones.

[eller]

radiator outlet is not 107 its only ( 7C ). close to the tempreture outside.

shouldnt the termostat open and alow flow without help from the heating element in the thermostat.

107C engine tempretur.

7C radiator outlet, Lower hose

no circulation=thermostat closed.

do you guys agree?

[bmwdirtracer]

Abel was referring to engine outlet temp, not radiator outlet. The TIS document I linked to shows that if the thermostat is not assisted by the DME melting the wax ball, you'll get 107C before the thermostat opens.

You have replaced the thermostat twice; therefore it is unlikely this is your problem. IF your wire testing was correct, then the wires are okay. Which would leave only a fried driver in the DME.

[eller]

i think this guy had the same issue

https://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sh....php?t=1123811

[eller]

i think the solution is to find a donor car, then take the DME, EWS, Ignition with keys. and i should be running. right ?

[328 Power 04]

Yes, or find someone that can clone your DME into a used second hand one. There are people that can do this. Plenty in europe too.

Then you don't have to change keys and ews module.

[eller]

i think i will go with the DMe, ews, and key swap.

Found a whole set on ebay for cheap money, its the same year and everything.

have a look

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-3...-/273494854538

i need a new key anyways, the remote is broken, the chip inside is very corroded, and my left front door lock is also broken(due to broken remote) the manual lock is only for emergencys, and i used it like a thousand times now.





. so this will be just perfect in my case.

[eller]

A new Dme fixed the issue.

[mry82]

Glad you got it fixed, and to learn my output temps are normal; I was wondering!