It's all been done before, now it's my turn

[acspecialists]

Vanos and chain guides, my car has 170k on the clock. It's quite at cold start but when it's hot is sounds pretty bad, Vanos rattle? I've been driving it and going to the track with no problems. I looked into the vanos rebuild and decided to go all the way and do the chain guides at the same time. I'm shipping out for 65 days so there is plenty of time to order parts and get feedback. I will try to keep track of and update my progress when I start.

First off I got the timing tools from a member. The water pump intake gaskets and valley pan have been done. The rebuild for the vanos looks like a couple of o-rings but I'm thinking about changing the valve bodies as well? My car is a early 00' so it should have the updated valve bodies. My first question is OEM VS Aftermarket? I have started to build a list with ECS but as things add up I could save quite a few bucks by getting aftermarket. I don't plan on changing out the chains unless there is some compelling reason to. I'm going to drop the lower pan to clean things up and replace the gasket. Of course the turbo oil swirler contraption behind the chains.

Any advice from some who has been in there would be a great confidence builder. I hate taking apart good running engines but with the rattle, oil leaks and the weather keeping me off the track it's time to jump in.

[purplecty]

When you say valve bodies you mean vanos distribution pieces aka brackets?
Early production Distribution Piece can experience scoring from camshaft seal rings, so BMW made a design change to coat these with Teflon to prevent scoring starting in 9/'99. If you have an early model without the Teflon coated Distribution Pieces it is highly recommended to replace them with the updated version even if there is no scoring.

https://drvanos.com/collections/m62t...ribution-piece


I have a 3.99 and this is what mine looked like. They are clearly the outdated version...


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[acspecialists]

Yup, that's what I read. I'm thinking about just changing them rather than getting it apart and having to wait if I find a problem. Unless someone with the updated version thinks it's a waste of time and $250

[purplecty]

Yup, that's what I read. I'm thinking about just changing them rather than getting it apart and having to wait if I find a problem. Unless someone with the updated version thinks it's a waste of time and $250

If you have the updated version already you shouldn't need to waste you money on new ones...

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[TheAngryBear]

Having done this in parallel with another member (I used his tools and we were offset by a month, on 540s but same engine) I would say:
Get a few spare screws, nuts, and bolts. Yes organization is key and therefore you shouldn’t need them but I still lost a nut. Always better to have a few spares...
Get some extra parts that you can return if not needed. Example: transmission thermostat plastic parts. You might not replace it but you will need to touch it. Plastic at this age and use is brittle. AMHIK...
I would upgrade and consider getting a vanos already done. I did mine but in the process managed to pull my bench from the wall and then snap a work table from the floor welds at the auto hobby.
For the guides go with bmw parts. My friend used aftermarket and 20k later had to do it again. Other aspects should’ve be fine with aftermarket.
Have a spare waterpump gasket (and other non expensive gaskets). I ended up with the waterpump coming off 5 times as I forgot to route somethings.
More if I can think of any later.


2001 750iL DD74441
Stock

RIP: 2003 540iA Sport GS56111
H&R front springs, Ultimate Cup Holder, Euro Dash & Armrest, Grom, BavSound Stage1

[georgebest]

Dont forget these small, inexpensive parts (usually not included in timing chain kits):
- #10 grub screw http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_7556 BMW says it has to be replaced, I have no idea why
- #7 gasket ring http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_7550

[oldroller]

My 4-2000 production had the updated distribution blocks, no wear at all.
And agree with oem guides, and the biggest sturdiest vice (for the Vanos crimp) you can find, well secured.

It is a very strong pull to crimp the vanos shell correctly. On the same note, I have 20k miles after the kit and
I can hear a slight vanos rattle just off idle, disappears on further throttle. Not a concern for me, been pleased
with the performance.

[Roont]

I get the kit from FCP as well as gaskets. I second getting more than one water pump gasket.

I usually give the exposed upper oil pan gasket a smear of black rtv and a little roll of it in that corner.

Also the pipe for the intake vent (everyone has their own name for it it seems haha) I found that Dorman makes it and I have been getting them on Amazon

Line up your parts and bolts along the side of the car in the order you take them off. Use little boxes and label the bolts.

Take video and photo of coolant and vacuum and wiring. It is always something simple at the end that slows the job down it seems.

It's a long job but I like to do them at night with no distractions and they go well.

Have what you need for the Jesus bolt ahead of time for worst case scenario! The first one I did, my gun took off no issue. (Using the holding tool, NOT the pin in the timing tool kit)

But for the next ones, I'm glad I read this forum and had a 27 3/4 socket and 3/4 drive breaker bar!!

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[Southern740iL]

I get the kit from FCP as well as gaskets. I second getting more than one water pump gasket.

I usually give the exposed upper oil pan gasket a smear of black rtv and a little roll of it in that corner.

Also the pipe for the intake vent (everyone has their own name for it it seems haha) I found that Dorman makes it and I have been getting them on Amazon

Line up your parts and bolts along the side of the car in the order you take them off. Use little boxes and label the bolts.

Take video and photo of coolant and vacuum and wiring. It is always something simple at the end that slows the job down it seems.

It's a long job but I like to do them at night with no distractions and they go well.

Have what you need for the Jesus bolt ahead of time for worst case scenario! The first one I did, my gun took off no issue. (Using the holding tool, NOT the pin in the timing tool kit)

But for the next ones, I'm glad I read this forum and had a 27 3/4 socket and 3/4 drive breaker bar!!

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I broke two 1/2" breaker bars trying to take the bolt off. I went to harbor freight, got a 3/4" breaker bar, heated the bolt and it broke loose. It was much easier than the last two I did, I guess that heat really helped.

[georgebest]

I really had no idea when I got to the jesus bolt, figured it's a bit tight but how hard it could be...then I asked on this forum and got enlightened

[yukon101]

I broke two 1/2" breaker bars trying to take the bolt off. I went to harbor freight, got a 3/4" breaker bar, heated the bolt and it broke loose. It was much easier than the last two I did, I guess that heat really helped.

I used a 1/2" old school Craftsman to break mine loose. The breaker bar itself was 2 feet long then I used an additional 4 foot cheater bar on the end to get even more leverage. My engine was outside my E32 and I had 4 of my buddies holding it in place and it was still trying to rotate from all the torque. I cheated and used vice grips very tightly gripped to the crank pulley to hold it in place lol.

[Roont]

I also had no idea about this bolt's reputation before researching this job haha. I have had a 3/4 bar but didnt have a 27 for it.

And to those that can do it without the crank holder tool, I cannot imagine! I know I could not.

You are going to be ahead of the game by doing your research before you even touch it.

Germans use very soft aluminum so have a torque wrench for low Nm (inch pounds).

Also cleaner (brake clean or something similar) and a blow gun or a parts washer. Although some of the guys on here send the parts out to get washed and they come back looking new!!



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[740ilDuke]

I just ordered it all from getBMWparts.com - been through it 3x over the years. Thought being OE stuff lasted this long, why risk it.

[yukon101]

I got all my parts from either FCPEuro or ECSTuning, for gaskets I went Victor Reinz which according to my E34 buddy with a M50B25 is the factory head gasket. Cant say for timing stuff as I have two M60B40s but I say go OE unless you know OEM.

[georgebest]

Germans use very soft aluminum so have a torque wrench for low Nm (inch pounds).

Very good point, most bolts are 10Nm but for example the valve cover is 8Nm, hard to find any cheap torque wrenches doing that low level accurately. I'm using this, it's a bit of an overkill butstill my favorite tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[acspecialists]

My production date is 07-99, right on the line for the Vanos housing. I'll buy them and then return them if mine are the new style.
Jesus bolt, check. I have the crank holding tool and can get my hands on a 3/4" breaker bar.
OEM for the guides and victor rentz for the gaskets.
I'll post some updates when I get back and get busy.