Need help!!! Bmw 325i e90 barely runs. Video in description

[BmwGAF]

****,Video: Watch "2006 bmw 325i e90 n53 bad misfire code p0300" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/PtR9fqx0Iks********

Long story short I bought this car not running with the previous owner stating the fuel pump was the reason the car couldn't run/ would barely run. After reading around and looking at possibilities I started with all the cheap %^&*. Oil change, spark plugs, fuel filter, coil packs, and vanos solenoids. The car now runs at least and will turn on but as you can hear in the video she is not health one bit. So I am looking for guidance on what I should be doing next. Should I replace the fuel pump? I did manage to get a fuel pressure tester from a parts place but it wouldn't stop leaking however it did read out 50psi while running but like I said I have no clue how accurate that was. Please if you have anything I could test or check before throwing more money at the problem that would be greatly appreciated!

Codes are
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0305
P0306

[White94RX]

P-codes don't mean anything to me. Anyone on here will recommend that the best tool you can buy is something that reads BMW specific codes, and not generic P-codes. Maybe someone else can be of some help, but I can't help yet.

[MarcoZandrini]

Are you in the US? If you are go to www.bimrs.org to find a reputable indie shop that specializes in bimmers. Those codes are all misfires. If it’s the fuel pump make sure that whomever installs the new pump installs a pump made Siemens/VDO as that company supplied the pump to the factory. The fuel filter needs to be replaced when the fuel pump is replaced.

[MauiM3Mania]

Moved from the General BMW Discussion sub-forum.

[bmwdirtracer]

I'm with White 94Rx. P codes are useless bureaucratic emissions crap.

Yours say nothing except that you have misfires on every cylinder. Whoopee. That means: Something is wrong.

Sure, it could be a fuel pump. It could be six bad coils at the same time. (Well, no, it couldn't, that's silly). Unless you bought Chinese coils at your local car parts store, or put in the wrong spark plugs from the same place.

BUT THEN, YOU HAVE GIVEN US BAD INFORMATION ANYWAY

A 325 is NOT an N54 engine, So let's start by your telling us what car you own. An N54 is very different from an N52. It might help to know where you live, to....because if it's, say, California, you might have an N51. Being cute with your information, like "happy" and "fun" just makes it really difficult for someone to help you.

[BmwGAF]

I'm with White 94Rx. P codes are useless bureaucratic emissions crap.

Yours say nothing except that you have misfires on every cylinder. Whoopee. That means: Something is wrong.

Sure, it could be a fuel pump. It could be six bad coils at the same time. (Well, no, it couldn't, that's silly). Unless you bought Chinese coils at your local car parts store, or put in the wrong spark plugs from the same place.

BUT THEN, YOU HAVE GIVEN US BAD INFORMATION ANYWAY

A 325 is NOT an N54 engine, So let's start by your telling us what car you own. An N54 is very different from an N52. It might help to know where you live, to....because if it's, say, California, you might have an N51. Being cute with your information, like "happy" and "fun" just makes it really difficult for someone to help you.

I just bought the car do I barely know what motor is in it since there could be 3 different type as far as I have read but you are correct it is non turbo so yeah it's an n53 from what I've read. 3.0l inline 6. I get that all the codes are misfires this isn't my first rodeo. However it is my first time with a bmw, so now that I know that I cant retrieve any specific code without what sounds like a dealer computer so I would like to figure out if there are any other options since I am far from a dealer and the car cant really drive. And I dont really understand how I haven't given you bad Information. I gave you a video. And I told you the process I have already gone through and now I am looking for guidance in what to do next. Sorry that I mixed up the motor but it wouldn't matter if it was a n52 n53 n54 missfires are all the same it's not like you could say oh this is definitely what's wrong because it's an n53 motor. Anyways thank you very much for the replys. I am also located in canada.

[Breeze1]

You can install INPA on a laptop and use an OBDII/USB cable to hook it up to your car.

The cable is cheap, you can get it for around $15 on ebay.

You can read this thread for installation and use instructions. All credits go to 328Power04, its author:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Z3+diagnostics

[02Pilot]

Contrary to received internet wisdom, a video does not inherently provide all the relevant information needed to remotely diagnose a mechanical or electrical issue.

In order for anyone to provide useful diagnosis, you need to give us the some actual data to work with. Plug the last seven of your VIN into an online decoder - that will tell you exactly how your vehicle is equipped. Get some sort of BMW-specific code reader, either the INPA setup suggested above or a dedicated handheld unit, and pull the manufacturer fault codes, noting which are active and which are stored. Or take the path of least resistance and get it to a specialist who can do these things for you. Throwing parts at it based on dubious internet suggestions gets both frustrating and expensive awfully fast.

[BmwGAF]

I still dont understand how I'm not giving any useful data... stated that I had tried this and that and have read this and that. Short of pulling actual bmw codes which is obvious, or I wouldn't have come here. My point to the thread was to understand if anyone has had a problems like this to see what they did to resolve the issues or similar issues. You know maybe a sensor I could check or wires that tend to break or vacuum lines that like to crack with age stuff like that. Also there is no option to take it to the bmw deal or a special dealer as I dont have the fortune of having a bmw dealer near me as well as the fact that I bought the car for cheap so I could have a winter beater. Finally one thing we can agree upon is yes I do not want to throw money at the problem. I guess if I would have just downloaded INPA could have avoided all this.

The car is a black 2006 325i e90 n53 manual trans 3.0l I6.

[BmwGAF]

Thank you very much!

Contrary to received internet wisdom, a video does not inherently provide all the relevant information needed to remotely diagnose a mechanical or electrical issue.

In order for anyone to provide useful diagnosis, you need to give us the some actual data to work with. Plug the last seven of your VIN into an online decoder - that will tell you exactly how your vehicle is equipped. Get some sort of BMW-specific code reader, either the INPA setup suggested above or a dedicated handheld unit, and pull the manufacturer fault codes, noting which are active and which are stored. Or take the path of least resistance and get it to a specialist who can do these things for you. Throwing parts at it based on dubious internet suggestions gets both frustrating and expensive awfully fast.

I still dont understand how I'm not giving any useful data... stated that I had tried this and that and have read this and that. Short of pulling actual bmw codes which is obvious, or I wouldn't have come here. My point to the thread was to understand if anyone has had a problems like this to see what they did to resolve the issues or similar issues. You know maybe a sensor I could check or wires that tend to break or vacuum lines that like to crack with age stuff like that. Also there is no option to take it to the bmw deal or a special dealer as I dont have the fortune of having a bmw dealer near me as well as the fact that I bought the car for cheap so I could have a winter beater. Finally one thing we can agree upon is yes I do not want to throw money at the problem. Time to download INPA

The car is a black 2006 325i e90 n53 manual trans 3.0l I6.

[Breeze1]

I understand your frustration, as you just (knowingly) bought a car that isn't running well and you're hopîng/thinking that there is something you can try that will fix the issue. The thing is, misfiring issues perhaps more than any others can have a vast array of possible causes starting from the fuel pump all the way to the O2 sensors, and running a proper diagnostic with a dedicated software will actually save you a lot of time and frustration. And although some members can show some impatience sometimes, if you put yourself in their shoes you'll easily understand why: they basically have had to deal with the same questions/assumptions on at least a weekly basis for years. And for the techs among them,both at work and here on the forum.

With that said, there is a rudimentary test you could perform to *try* and verify whether the fuel pump is close to its end or not: see that plug showing at 0.24 in your vid? that's your MAF sensor plug. Disconnect it, start the engine . You'll be in "base fueling maps/ open loop mode", which basically runs the engine in a way that "hides" MAF sensor and intake leaks issues (to some extent). If the car idles better, it'll be a "fair" indication that your issue is not the FP but rather one of the previously mentioned culprits. Let it reach operating temp (a good 10 min) and rev it. If it revs freely and you can feel the engine keeping up with your right foot, it'll most likely rule the FP out.

If it doesn't change anything, then you'll probably be looking at a fueling issue which, if the fuel filter you bought is from a good brand and the fuel lines that run below the car from the fuel pump (at the rear) to the engine are neither bent nor leaking, will most likely come from the FP.

Start with that and report here, we'll tell you what to try next. BUT in any case, install INPA and get ready to run some proper diagnostics.

[BmwGAF]

I understand your frustration, as you just (knowingly) bought a car that isn't running well and you're hopîng/thinking that there is something you can try that will fix the issue. The thing is, misfiring issues perhaps more than any others can have a vast array of possible causes starting from the fuel pump all the way to the O2 sensors, and running a proper diagnostic with a dedicated software will actually save you a lot of time and frustration. And although some members can show some impatience sometimes, if you put yourself in their shoes you'll easily understand why: they basically have had to deal with the same questions/assumptions on at least a weekly basis for years. And for the techs among them,both at work and here on the forum.

With that said, there is a rudimentary test you could perform to *try* and verify whether the fuel pump is close to its end or not: see that plug showing at 0.24 in your vid? that's your MAF sensor plug. Disconnect it, start the engine . You'll be in "base fueling maps/ open loop mode", which basically runs the engine in a way that "hides" MAF sensor and intake leaks issues (to some extent). If the car idles better, it'll be a "fair" indication that your issue is not the FP but rather one of the previously mentioned culprits. Let it reach operating temp (a good 10 min) and rev it. If it revs freely and you can feel the engine keeping up with your right foot, it'll most likely rule the FP out.

If it doesn't change anything, then you'll probably be looking at a fueling issue which, if the fuel filter you bought is from a good brand and the fuel lines that run below the car from the fuel pump (at the rear) to the engine are neither bent nor leaking, will most likely come from the FP.

Start with that and report here, we'll tell you what to try next. BUT in any case, install INPA and get ready to run some proper diagnostics.

Oh I bought it full out knowing this wasnt going to be easy but these things sell for 8 grand where I'm from so spending 2600$ on the car was a no brainer even if the motor was blown hahah.

I would like to consider myself very mechanically inclined, I have build 2 cars from ground up and maintain every other vehicle I have( they are both nissan so much easier to work on and less electronics) however bmw is new to me so I am at your mercy for now.

I did try the maf trick already and it changed nothing. I volt tested my fuel pump circuit and it is a strong 11.9 that's with it barely running since the alternator is barely charging. With a booster on it's at 13.4 so I have lots of power. The fuel filter I replaced was from bmw so I would say the quality is good. Lines are not smashed or leaking.

Lastly I'm not sure it would be in the best interest of the motors life to run it for 10 min with every single cylinder throwing a misfire code, also the fact that it sounds like it wants to start knocking due to such low oil pressure when you barely idle the car above 500rpm. That's the reason I did an oil change since these wonderful machines dont have a dip stick........ and you have to warm the car up to get the reading on the dash.

If you suggest I run the car for some period of time I can let her buck I just hate the car sitting there and me not working on it hahhaha need to keep my hands busy.

[Breeze1]

Oh I bought it full out knowing this wasnt going to be easy but these things sell for 8 grand where I'm from so spending 2600$ on the car was a no brainer even if the motor was blown hahah.

I would like to consider myself very mechanically inclined, I have build 2 cars from ground up and maintain every other vehicle I have( they are both nissan so much easier to work on and less electronics) however bmw is new to me so I am at your mercy for now.

I did try the maf trick already and it changed nothing. I volt tested my fuel pump circuit and it is a strong 11.9 that's with it barely running since the alternator is barely charging. With a booster on it's at 13.4 so I have lots of power. The fuel filter I replaced was from bmw so I would say the quality is good. Lines are not smashed or leaking.

Lastly I'm not sure it would be in the best interest of the motors life to run it for 10 min with every single cylinder throwing a misfire code, also the fact that it sounds like it wants to start knocking due to such low oil pressure when you barely idle the car above 500rpm. That's the reason I did an oil change since these wonderful machines dont have a dip stick........ and you have to warm the car up to get the reading on the dash.

If you suggest I run the car for some period of time I can let her buck I just hate the car sitting there and me not working on it hahhaha need to keep my hands busy.

I suggested doing that only in case it idled better, i.e. without or with much less misfiring. Since the MAF trick didn't work then maybe you're back to fueling or something that will likely show up in INPA's diagnostic.

[BmwGAF]

I suggested doing that only in case it idled better, i.e. without or with much less misfiring. Since the MAF trick didn't work then maybe you're back to fueling or something that will likely show up in INPA's diagnostic.

Figured as much. Well I have this weekend off so I will download INPA or what ever and get that going. I already have an obd2 reader that can plug into a laptop. I'll see what I find!