engine timing off stand.

[VLT]

Just installed the cams today and the engine is almost buttoned up and ready to go back into the car. I do have a few questions though.

The engine is on a stand with the flywheel off. Is this necessary for timing? What are the chances of the crank moving during vanos timing?

Also, I do not own the BMW dummy chain tensioner. Is there a "homemade" way I can go about this or without one at all?

Cams are locked at TDC and just rotated the crank 30* left back to TDC. I've heard of the finger process, just don't know how to execute this.

Any insight is appreciated. Can't wait to boost.

Thanks,

Collin

[IR M5]

You should be fine timing the engine without the flywheel locking pin. Most people on here are running aftermarket flywheels that don't have the machined hole for the pin. Heck, my OEM Luk DMF doesn't even have one.

The crank will not move during vanos timing unless you physically move it. Just go slowly and check your marks multiple times. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the movement if the vanos if you have time.

I always use the BMW tool when timing these engine, but i've heard that the "penny" methods works well.

Watch this video for a better explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23jXHhkpV_I

[VLT]

You should be fine timing the engine without the flywheel locking pin. Most people on here are running aftermarket flywheels that don't have the machined hole for the pin. Heck, my OEM Luk DMF doesn't even have one.

The crank will not move during vanos timing unless you physically move it. Just go slowly and check your marks multiple times. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the movement if the vanos if you have time.

I always use the BMW tool when timing these engine, but i've heard that the "penny" methods works well. Unfortunately, I have the newer style tensioner that I can't disassemble.

Watch this video for a better explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23jXHhkpV_I

I'm not too concerned on the crank moving since I can keep an eye on it, but the proper tension on the exhaust sprocket is whats getting me. Seems like a few users (butters and pbonslab) don't even bother with the tensioner tool and use their finger to get the job done with no issues. I'm curious on the procedure they use to accomplish this

[someguy2800]

Just line up the mark on the damper and put the normal chain tensioner in. You find that if you set it this way and then then turn the crank a full revolution and check it again it will be off slightly from the slack that was in the chains. Loosen the bolts on the exhaust cam and set them again. Now they should be good.