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Love Mine!!!
Last edited by Hova; 12-16-2018 at 08:47 PM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
As we frequently have earthquakes here in Japan, I made the garage concrete with iron bar/mesh enforced and much thicker concrete than the 4" required. I also made a special cross bar between the 2 posts, you can see here where we discussed about the MaxJax in detail, also some small probs in the beginning when I installed it first time, 1 connector was not threaded etc. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ghlight=MaxJax
Actually I bought 2 at the same time then, the other one for a friend, his one also had some probs, pics in here, found some iron/metal pieces inside the quick connect valve from their drilling the threaded connections into the columns, were not removed in the China factory, causing uneven hydraulic fluid flow + lifting of the 2 poles. Repaired/cleaned it and installed new quick connector valves, since then also no probs. I have my one now since 2011, use it several times/month. Would buy it again.
Key words: portability, compact storage, convenience, with a minimum ceiling height of 8 feet, it will fit in just about any home garage, with built-in wheels that allows you to use the lift when you need it, then store it out of the way when not in use.
Quality control should be better, see my posts in above link and you find more when searching the net, the lift is made in China, but these probs are repairable. Leaks on my unit after many years use can come, and are repairable so far. Apparently they now also use U.S. electric motors for the hydraulic unit. After sales service is fine, so far technical support was good, when I contacted them with the problem I had to solve with the defective quick connection valves.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
A local guy just had his quick jack drop his buddies civic while they were adjusting the coilovers. Luckily no one under the car. One side fell.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
He said that only side failed/fell. That being said, the only time I've seen something like this happen on a hydraulic jack (mainly a 2-post) is when the mechanical locks were not engaged but the car was left resting on the hydraulic pressure (cylinder). Once a line blows, fluid shoots out and the car's weight slams on the lock shearing it.
I don't see one side collapsing unless the safety locks were not engaged properly.
On the MaxJax I have and probably also on all other hydraulic lifts there are mechanical solid steel safety lock bars capable of holding three times the rated lifting capacity. one should stick them into the post = lift the car a bit higher than the holes are for the mechanical safety bars, insert the bars, release hydraulic pressure, the car moves slowly down till it rests on the bars on the post.
Not using the safety bars is really dangerous.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
With the quickjack, you really have to watch when you go past the safety notches and then lower it to make sure both safety levers have passed and that the latch itself haw flipped to catch onto the latches. I know I watch and hold the down button for a couple of seconds to make sure, and then visually verify
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I love my Quickjacks. I dont have the space or concrete strength at home for a proper hoist, so Quickjack was my only option (we also have far less options here in NZ than in the US). I can also confirm there is no way they could drop one side, or at all, if operated correctly. Once its on the lock bars, and off the hydraulics, its solid as a rock, see the test videos above. Its easily paid for itself with how much I have used it.
I just got one of the 5000lb lifts and tried it out today for the first time. A few questions....
The rubber blocks hit the front jack points way before they hit in the rear. When the front blocks were snug against the car, there was probably one to two inches of space between the car and the rear pads. Normal?
I had to remove those little black plastic pieces that hang down in front of the rear tires, otherwise they were getting crushed by the frame of the jacks. I’m surprised nobody has mentioned this, it is going to be annoying having to take them off every time.
Several of my fittings are leaking, how much did you guys tighten them?
Mine go up a little uneven, so when one side has the lock engaged, the other side is slightly past it. Normal?
Last edited by sivikvtec; 08-19-2019 at 12:53 AM.
Sivikvtec, are you referring to the wind deflectors below the side skirts? You can use a hockey puck or a small piece of 2x4, 2x6 or similar wood there.
It should be tightened fairly snug. I imagine around 30-35ft lbs. The manual says to use teflon tape, but I used pipe dope on all of them (careful to only get a thin amount on the threads) and I've never seen a drop of fluid.They are just hydraulic hoses, the rated pressure on both the fittings and hoses is many times the actual pressure seen.
Page 21:
https://www.quickjack.com/downloads/...J-Dec-2018.pdf
For anyone interested; I noticed Homedepot has the 7,000lb model on sale for $1159. This is the lowest I've ever seen it for:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuickJac...110V/309646718
That's $440 off the normal price. Pretty solid deal.
Last edited by Hova; 08-19-2019 at 03:30 AM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Damn, I would definitely buy the 7k model for that price! Probably should have went that route anyways just because I also have a large SUV!
None of my fittings leak fluid, but the air canisters need more from time to time. Make sure you check the pressure every 2 seconds or so because it fills up really fast to 50 psi!
I dont remove my wind deflectors and dont seem to have an issue. I place my block perpendicular where the jack points are and its fine
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Thanks for the info guys.
What about the jack hitting the front jack points first, and then you have to continue raising it a few inches until it hits the rears? Is yours that way too?
Also, are you just using one large block per corner? I couldn’t get the jack under the car with the medium and large blocks stacked on top of each other.
Last edited by sivikvtec; 08-19-2019 at 11:16 AM.
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