Camber arms question

[Rooster20]

I'm replacing my Bilstein sport shocks and Eibach sports springs with KW V2 adjustable coilovers. I'm a big fan of how my car rides and handles with its current setup however I just want it a bit lower. At the moment I have 15mm spacers in the front and either 10 or 12mm spacers in the rear (I'll have to go remind myself). With a full take of gas and a good compression my rear tires rub just a little bit. The fenders are rolled and could probably be rolled more but the paint on the car 8s original and in such good shape I'd be nervous to push my luck there.
My question is that I think an option to lower the car without it rubbing is camber arms. Would I need them only for the rear? Assuming so but I'm sorta dumb at this stuff. I just want to make sure my fronts never rub. Terrified of popping a fender.
Anyone have any suggestions on this? Also anyone have any suggestions on a good brand to go with?

Thanks


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[bmw328m52]

You can go with a cheap seat of camber arms from BW for the rear. For the front, they also sell a camber shim kit that you can use. You simply shim or add spacers where the front shock bolts up to the spindle. This will create additional camber so you don't rub as bad. If money isn't an issue, I would just buy front camber plates that are compatible with the kW's.

[JitteryJoe]

I'm certainly not an expert here. Why don't you reduce the spacers in the rear?
You can get adjustable rear camber arms (I run Turner adjustable rear camber arms).

For the front, you need adjustable camber plates to sit on top of the strut.

I'd being careful doing this piecemeal. Everything has to work in harmony.

[Rooster20]

I'm certainly not an expert here. Why don't you reduce the spacers in the rear?
You can get adjustable rear camber arms (I run Turner adjustable rear camber arms).

For the front, you need adjustable camber plates to sit on top of the strut.

I'd being careful doing this piecemeal. Everything has to work in harmony.

Yea, believe me I will make sure everything is done exactly right. I am WAY particular about this car.
Thanks for the advice.

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[Rooster20]

You can go with a cheap seat of camber arms from BW for the rear. For the front, they also sell a camber shim kit that you can use. You simply shim or add spacers where the front shock bolts up to the spindle. This will create additional camber so you don't rub as bad. If money isn't an issue, I would just buy front camber plates that are compatible with the kW's.

Thank you

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[LockDots]

SPC arms in the rear will feel no different than stock since they use a rubber inner bushing and will give you plenty of camber adjustment. As for the front, the "best" way to adjust camber is with a good set of camber plates (strut mounts) like TC Kline or Vorshlag. The cheapest way is to swap your strut hats (Left to Right and Right to Left). Since you have a 99 M3, you'll end up around -3.5 to -4 degrees of camber which should be plenty. I have 245/40 tires on a 17x9 ET41 wheel at -3 degrees of camber up front and never rub unless I'm at full lock and hit a significant pothole, pretty much never.

If you decide to roll the rears a little more, focus on the corner where the quarter panel meets the rear bumper. That's where they tend to rub the most. As for the paint, just heat it up with a heat gun. Not hot enough to burn you but hot enough where it's a little uncomfortable and go a little bit a time. The paint will be pliable.

[scooper]

you don't need aftermarket ones unless you want to run more than -2.0 degrees each side.

[bmw328m52]

I wouldn't run a coilover setup without front shims(camber plates preferred) or aftermarket rear control arms. It is a cheap mod to gain max adjust ability. Might as well do it while you're in there...

[NoLastName]

Camber is only one part of the equation when it comes to tire rub. Adding tons of negative camber isn't necessarily the best move in all circumstances (especially in the rear). You have to do it in the front, yes - and it can be beneficial there. But in the rear, adding negative camber might actually cause more tire rub. It depends on your combination of ride height, camber, toe, and wheel/tire package. A good starting point is to state the wheel size/width/offset and tire size/width that you're running front and rear.

[Rooster20]

SPC arms in the rear will feel no different than stock since they use a rubber inner bushing and will give you plenty of camber adjustment. As for the front, the "best" way to adjust camber is with a good set of camber plates (strut mounts) like TC Kline or Vorshlag. The cheapest way is to swap your strut hats (Left to Right and Right to Left). Since you have a 99 M3, you'll end up around -3.5 to -4 degrees of camber which should be plenty. I have 245/40 tires on a 17x9 ET41 wheel at -3 degrees of camber up front and never rub unless I'm at full lock and hit a significant pothole, pretty much never.

If you decide to roll the rears a little more, focus on the corner where the quarter panel meets the rear bumper. That's where they tend to rub the most. As for the paint, just heat it up with a heat gun. Not hot enough to burn you but hot enough where it's a little uncomfortable and go a little bit a time. The paint will be pliable.

Cool. Yea my rears just rub at the very top of the wheel arch.

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[Rooster20]

Camber is only one part of the equation when it comes to tire rub. Adding tons of negative camber isn't necessarily the best move in all circumstances (especially in the rear). You have to do it in the front, yes - and it can be beneficial there. But in the rear, adding negative camber might actually cause more tire rub. It depends on your combination of ride height, camber, toe, and wheel/tire package. A good starting point is to state the wheel size/width/offset and tire size/width that you're running front and rear.

Just the standard setup with M Contours

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[Rooster20]

I wouldn't run a coilover setup without front shims(camber plates preferred) or aftermarket rear control arms. It is a cheap mod to gain max adjust ability. Might as well do it while you're in there...

That's the plan. Want it all done in one swoop and it all done right.

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[NoLastName]

Just the standard setup with M Contours

Ah. Sounds like you probably just need to remove the rear spacers then.

[Rooster20]

Ah. Sounds like you probably just need to remove the rear spacers then.

Probably. They just look so much better installed.

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[Rooster20]

Would anyone be interested in the suspension that's currently on the car once I remove it? Only has around 15k miles on them. Cars never been driven in the rain so the parts have never even been wet. I dare say like new. 👍

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