Please help.
Recently bought a 1996 e36 328i. Most of the time the car starts just fine.
NOTE: PO rewired the car to "push to start" and disabled ingnition barrel.
But recently if the car starts after a few minutes of driving will begin to idle very rough and then die. I try to restart it and nothing. I get lights on the dash, fuel pump kicks on and fan too, but it wont turn over.
I've read that pulling the "crash alarm relay" Can help and it did. But after 2 days the same thing happened. I flip the switch to turn on accessories and everything works, push button to start and nothing happens.
Also I just put in a semi new battery and it didn't help.
Any suggestions? Other than just scrapping the car.
Hi,
Post this question in the relevant E36 section and also get in touch with a reputable local auto electrician. This section is for car audio.
Cheers, Dennis!
Try www.newtis.info for wiring diagrams.
moved to E36 forum
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Next step is to test fuel pressure. If it's bad, its recommended to replace the filter and relay.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Pull the start button and test it. If it tests ok then move on to the EWS ring on the ignition. What most people do to bypass/disable it is to tape a spare key onto the ignition barrel. It's possible that key has moved. Pull off the top and bottom trim pieces that cover the ignition and steering column to expose the ignition barrel and EWS keyring. One last thing to try is pull the glovebox. You'll see a stack of control modules. The very bottom one should have a large yellow connector. This is the EWS module. It's possible that the OP bypassed the EWS keyring by cutting and splicing 2 wires together on that EWS module. If he did you should see 2 wires wirenutted together or possibly he used a crimp on unit. If everything looks intact and unmolested leave it alone. If you see 2 wires cut then make sure they are still making good contact .
If that doesn't work I would go back to the push button setup and try to figure out how the OP wired it all in. It's possible some of his wiring has started to come apart
Last edited by flyfishvt; 12-08-2018 at 07:24 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
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