So i try to start the car and it immediately dies. Listed below is everything i have done so far
Okay so replaced a bunch of gaskets and sensors on the car trying to clear up a rough idle issue. I replaced intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket as well as the one on the side of the throttle body, all the vacuum lines for the brake booster and the check valve and the part that plugs into the intake elbow, timing belt and tensioner, camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, intermediate shaft seal, bitch pipe upper and lower orings, oil filter housing orings, i replaced fuel filter, injectors, fuel lines, cap rotor, plugs, wires, coil. Throttle body was cleaned as well as the ICV. I tested the resistance of the ICV and throttle position sensor and they both checked out. Any ideas?
Fuel pressure test
So i decided to pull everything back apart and check the timing marks at TDC while the crankshaft is perfect the camshaft marks are off by about 1/8th inch. What do i need to do to reset the timing? Sorry everyone im a first timer doing something like this. Can i just pop the belt back off and rotate the camshaft the tiny bit that i need to get the timing perfect?
Can you post a pic?
From this angle?
100_6672.jpg
Take a straight edge and measure your distance of 1/8 inch...
100_6679.jpg
This may account for your rough running - but usually its a tooth off - not such a small amount as an 1/8 of an inch..
If you do remove the belt and reset moving the camshaft a wee bit to the left or right -1/8in should be fine.
Yeah I got all that stuff straightened out with the timing, definitely no issues there.
I also just done testing the AFM itself using the procedure that was posted by another member in this thread and the AFM itself checks out so a possibility of the wiring being bad between the connector for the AFM and the DME. Any procedure in testing this would be very helpful.....i wish i had a bentley manual.
I just thought of something i tested the AFM with it connected in the car so it proves that the wiring is correct from the DME to the AFM
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the DME
Last edited by BMWBurnout875; 12-03-2018 at 05:33 AM.
An engine needs air, fuel, spark, and compression to run. If it's in time and you know you have fuel and spark but the engine won't run, your problem is likely an engine sensor, a compression issue, or a massive vacuum leak. It's probably not a compression issue because then it wouldn't start at all. Have you don't a smoke test?
I would double check spark after that, visually check icv movement, and do a smoke test. Did the car run fine before? How quickly does the car die, does it fire a little and then stop or idle for a tiny bit an then stop? This is a great guide if there's anything here you haven't tried yet.
I did, I have spark on all 6 cyclinders and I have 40-45lbs of fuel pressure while cranking. The car had a slightly rough idle before but started up fine. The car doesnt actually run. It sounds like its going to run then dies if that makes any sense. I'm really starting to lean towards a DME problem
I have a Bentley manual so if you would like me to reference anything I can do that. Otherwise maybe check all of your wiring harness to make sure that nothing that was hanging by a thread is now disconnected or even worse pinched in between some thing when you replaced gaskets? Also make sure you have a good ground from the oil pan to the framerail of the car(or any other grounds for that matter. I’m trying to figure out if a condition could/may exist in which you are only getting voltage (or ground) to something (coil/dme/relays, etc) when the starter is engaged and is soon as you release the key it loses power/ground and dies out.
Last edited by msservices; 12-04-2018 at 03:22 PM.
no one local can swap yours into theirs to test it and see if it works? I don't want to swap theirs into your car incase of a wiring or a short and theirs gets fried.
when you open the oil cap, can you see the cam rolling when someone cranks the engine over? just wondering, I don't think that is the trouble, but just to rule out a broken timing belt
No e30s again.
I checked the grounds and I replaced the timing belt in the list of everything I have done to the car. I dont know anyone local to me with one of these cars. Idk if the DME in an iX is specific to the iX or not. I will have to do some testing on the wiring harness to see if I have any shorts I just dont even know where to start.
Is there any possibility that when you replaced your plug wires a couple of them did not end up in the same positions on the distributor cap?
I am not sure how you were checking the fuel pressure but is it possible that you may have the supply and return lines reversed ?
Is there any possibility that your catalytic converter is plugged? The only two ways to check that would be hooking up a vacuum gauge while you try to start/run it, or disconnecting the exhaust at the manifolds, or use a shop vac to reverse blow through the intake boot with the throttle open.
Last edited by msservices; 12-04-2018 at 09:35 PM.
One thing that is throwing me off is that you listed everything that you have done to the car overall, but i do not see the specific things that you did leading up to the no start/run condition.
So I replaced the o rings for the bitch tube, intake manifold gaskets. I replaced the brake booster check valve and vacuum lines for it, I did the timing belt and tensioner, coolant temp sensor, valve cover gasket, throttle body gasket and an oil change using 20w-50 conventional oil
But the reason why I have a lot of brand new stuff done before I did all the work listed above because I was chasing down a rough idle which appears to be cause by the oil dipstick guide tube and/or the brake booster because I have a leak brake master cylinder
Last edited by BMWBurnout875; 12-05-2018 at 04:30 PM.
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