I'm not really sure how to go about posting them, and I couldn't find my problems in the search function (but maybe I'm just dumb.) I did manage to get the power seats fixed, all the flex rods were disconnected from their motors from shrinkage. It was pretty easy and didn't cost me any money (the best kind of fix) but I'm having trouble with a few other things that don't seem to be on here already. The first being the windows. They don't move.
When I got the car, all the windows worked fine, but after a few weeks, the driver's side window jammed solid about 10cm from the top of the frame. The rest of the windows still worked, so I took the door panel off and messed with the motor and gearbox till i got it dislodged. I tested out the driver side window, which went down, but then it stuck right back in the same place on the way back up. I think there's gunk in the window track near that spot, but I don't know how to access it because everything is riveted on. I gave up and put everything back together. As soon as I finished, I discovered that the rest of the windows were now not functioning.
I can hear the window motors clicking when I hit the switch for each window, but they're all jammed, wont move. I'm not even sure where to start troubleshooting because the switch is functional, and all the motors worked fine an hour before I started working on it.
there's also some weird stuff going on with the locks, and I know I'm going to have to replace some actuators. The front driver side and the rear passenger side are burnt out. The driver side lock is hard to turn and will not manually unlock, but doesn't feel like there's anything broken in it. When you turn to lock, it locks all the doors (with working actuators) and then immediately unlocks them again. I usually have to try several times to get it to stay locked. Any idea what could be causing it to keep unlocking? It happens on the driver and passenger locks, but not the trunk.
Finally I'm having issues with the gauge cluster randomly dying out. All the dials 0 out randomly when I'm driving. Sometimes, they just don't work at all. The previous owner said that it could be an issue with the ground and smacking the dash usually works for the speedometer, but never for the other dials.
These are the most immediate problems with the functionality of the vehicle, and I'd really like some guidance. I'm very limited on money and moving out of my apartment soon, so should I wait to touch these issues, or is there a possibility I could knock a couple of them out cheaply? I spent a few hours looking for actuator motors, but I cant seem to find anything for less than $120 EACH.
Please bring forth your wisdom, O Bimmer Gods.
The windows I cant help you with. I had intermittent functionality, fixed with a new GM, but you seem to describe your problem as physical. Hopefully this thread might help, see here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...window-problem
The door lock actuators can supposedly be fixed for cheap, see here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ctuator-repair
Ordered the motors myself, the link in the thread has all 5 you need for about $20.
The gauge cluster I think can have something to do with the capacitors, see here:
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...Capacitors.htm
I also have an 89, and that means you will have a grey backed cluster. My odo stopped counting at 300,000 miles, and if you are approaching this, I recommend just buying a good used condition cluster, blue or white backed, with similar mileage if possible. You will gain a functioning odo, and self-test feature.
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Hello and welcome! Good on you for Searching first.
The window tracks are removable. The metal guides are bolted or riveted in, and are removable after the rubber/foam track/weatherstripping assembly (pictured below) comes out, which it does thusly: lower the window, remove the tweeter and then the side mirror, pop out a plastic pin at the rear upper edge of the door, and another in front of the mirror. Carefully peel it off the door frame starting in the center, work your way to each end of the upper segment, and then the side segments will slide up and out of the metal tracks. The piece is reasonably sturdy, but can tear if pulled too hard at the rear upper corner and around the mirror. If the top is loose but the sides are still stuck, you may have to wiggle the glass, move it up and down, or remove it from the window regulator.
Search for 51328176586 (passenger front, but they're all basically the same) to see more.
Gauges are likely a bad contact, either in the cluster (likely) or at the plugs (less likely) or deeper down the body harness (unlikely).
Bad lock actuators can disable the whole central locking system, but a bad General Module will do that too. Make sure to use an early black one and not the more common later green type.
Look into the threads mentioned above before spending any money. If you can find a parts car (or someone with a running car willing to let you test their good parts), try swapping clusters and GM to see if anything changes. It does sound like your lock and window problems are either entirely physical, or physical problems caused electrical problems, as can happen when motors seize and start drawing too much power.
Last edited by moroza; 11-30-2018 at 07:20 PM.
I'm going to bet that the plastic gear for your power window has cracked it teeth that's why it always stops at that certain point. 2 ways to fix this: first would be replacing the whole motor and gear assembly, second is more involved but you would only be replacing the plastic gear that can be bought only here: https://www.atpartsmotor.com/index.p...id=&pid=155987
Thanks a ton for the info guys, I'll be getting started on these fixes as soon as I can.
Bringing up plastic reminds me, I have a 3d printer in my closet. Could I use that to print parts like that gear? I don't know a whole lot about 3d printing, but it seems like that would be feasible, and from what I've seen there's a few plastic parts that need to be replaced or repaired.
I had a similar issue with the passenger window,i replaced the idlers as one was broken yet when the window went up it would strike the lip of the top part of the window facia,what was happening is the window would skirt outside the rubber trim near the side mirror then cross back into the channel had to end up trimming that section of rubber off now no issues,I have a 535i parts car in the back yard if you need something let me know
Arizona, eh? Window tint film?
I see cars with window tint that comes off in the felt channel and goobers everything up. You'd be surprised how much extra force is required when this happens.
Check, clean and lube(silicone spray) the channels.
Another possibility is a broken or loose door check has damaged the front track.
I have good used lock actuators for the front but no rears(these fail more often), with some patience the fronts can be fitted to the rear position. It requires cutting open the sonic welded plastic housing and changing the actuating arm. Something of a PITA but good used rears are unicorns and you already know the price of new ones.
PM if I can help you
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Another thought after re-reading your initial post. If you are hearing the motors "click" when pushing the bUtton there is a better than even chance that they are simply. While holding the button a FIRM blow with your hand to door card near the motor will quite often wake them up.
My theory is that the motor brushes and/or commutator oxidize a bit from disuse. The shock of a good smack is enough to cause a bit of contact and once turning they self clean.
This won't likely help one that is jammed in the track but I've posted my thoughts about that already.
Relay and general modules are also involved in window operation, as is the power protection relay which could possibly cause complete inop. windows.
wiring diagram here;
http://www.e38.org/e34/e34_89_etm.pdf
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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