normal blade cutter will work, what you need to do is u go through it slowly, not at one go, say u make 5 passes, and check, up till certain point, u will be able to pry it open with ease
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
Well the good news is that I was able to acquire one with the correct part number, and at a very reasonable $39.99.
It should arrive Saturday, so hopefully Ed will begin feeling better by Monday.
Is there any process for adjusting the sensor, or is it simply "plug-n-play"?
I've crawled through all the videos I could find, and they all simply show the removal and reinstallation, with no adjustment. However, I know that the slots for the screws are designed for adjusting the angle.
Thanks for all of the help so far.
The tps? Yes, it needs to be just right, with the throttle butterfly at fully closed position, just and tight the screws holding the tps, what u need is a good ear if you dont have mutimeter,
If it mounts towards the front of the engine,u turn the tps all the way counter clockwise, turn it slowly clockwise until you hear a click, and reverse back a tiny hair, the operation should be, once you move the butterfly valve, it should click, meaning to say disable the icv and reads from the MAF
If it mounts towards the back of the engine, it would be the other way round
I do it with my multimeter with continuity or beep function
Slight opening of the throttle should disable the icv, while on idle (throttle closed) it should activate the icv, it all depends on how you want to set it, i remember i gave a link to tps disassembly, the should be pins with continuity and breaks continuity once the throttle is moved..
It all depends on your preference, i rather do the "electrical" way, the mechanical works if you have good hearing
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
A small ,possibly insignificant update.
Ed has been behaving somewhat better over the last 24 hours. The only change has been switching to premium fuel. The hesitation is much less frequent , still present but much less frequent and less severe.
Just an interesting development.
In addition to that, u might wanna try fuel injection cleaner, see if improves even better
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
We've used some of the inexpensive injector cleaners in the initial phases of his problems with good results, but obviously not permanently. Hence the ongoing problem, but I will use it again this weekend. Another culprit that I'm considering is his idle air control valve. What say ye group?
Last edited by shogun; 04-07-2019 at 03:46 AM. Reason: unnessary quotes removed
If its idling bad, it could be the culprit
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
Nice weather today! Got the new TPS out, and tested the old tps. It was non-functional.
Installed the new one, and Ed cranked up immediately, and idled 200% better. Still not perfect, but completely acceptable.Clearing the codes now, and resetting his brain. We'll see how he does after that.
Now on to replacing that thermostat.
Took him for a test drive, and almost had a horrible incident, as I had forgotten to bleed the air from the system after putting the thermostat in.
After a moment or two of panic and a mile cruising back home in the red, the air was released and all was fine.
The second test drive was perfection.
This car drives like a new man. Smooth and easy at idle and through all gears. Then I decided to stomp into the floor. Bloody hell! The difference was night and day!
Problem solved. Now onto the next challenges.
glad to hear it ran fine and smooth now
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
Well, after a week of driving the problem is starting to crop up again. It's nowhere near as severe as it has been, but I fear it will eventually return.
I'm thinking that while the tps was most definitely bad, it isn't the only culprit or maybe even not the one causing the stumble at takeoff.
The smooth running for 4-5 days can be attributed to clearing the memory in the computer.
So, I'm now back to looking for answers.
All plugs check fine and within tolerances, and the tps is functional and adjusted properly.
What are your thoughts?
did you adjust your tps accordingly, is should click and unclick, click while throttle flap is closed, unclick when slight movement on the throttle flap.
next will be a CPS, IACV, MAF, vacuum hoses (if applicable)
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
Well guys , we're back with the exact same issues as we had in November. The car will is displaying all of the same symptoms as the beginning of this thread. To this point we have changed the TPS , and the IACV , and thermostat. For a time the car ran almost normally , but here we are again.
Here are some additional clues that may or may not help:
I noticed what looks like an oil stain running down my intake plenum , just aft of the throttle body. To add to that , when we pull in and park , there is frequently the smell of oil. In relation to smells , there is also frequently the sulphur smell immediately after parking.
Also , the car has begun to idle at 1500 rpm , and the engine is loping at idle. That development occurred this morning after parking last evening with a normal idle of around 900 rpms.
One other probably insignificant occurrence is a repeatedly blown fuse that controls the headlights/fog lights. This would be fuse no.7 in the box located under the hood. The fuse has blown twice in two weeks.
While driving the car , it behaves almost like an engine that has a fule /air mixture problem , that can be balanced with pressing the gas pedal just right. If you apply the throttle too much and too quickly , the engine wants to stumble and try to cut out , but if you press the throttle just right , and gently enough it will behave. However , that behavior was last night when we parked the car. Today , it is just being a royal pain in the ass!. When sitting at idle ,it idles extremely rough , with loping , in the 1500 rpm range. When you begin to accelerate it balks, until it regains composure , and then drives fine , until you let off of the gas. At that point he symptoms resume , and while coasting the car acts as if it has a Jacobs brake.
If any of this sounds familiar please let me know , and throw any information you can at me. I'm beginning to come to the point of settling the issue with fire! This is absolutely ridiculous.
i start to believe that u have a bad fuel regulator/vacuum leaks. probably.. other than that, high idle could be caused by crack rubber boot post MAF, causing unmetered air and fuel is not adjusted due to its post MAF leak..
1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
1993 730i M60B30 RHD
Others:-
2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)
Okay, so the wife just pulled in.
The car sounds like total garbage.
Severe loping in the 1500 range while in park.
Moving the throttle lever no more than 1/8 inch leads the engine to race to , what I assume to be until failure, as I released the throttle when it began to get scary, estimate would be in the 6000 rpm range, and it was still climbing, until I let off.
- - - Updated - - -
Also, how do I post video to this thread?
Even using "advanced reply" on my Android, there is no option to post a video or photo.
Create a youtube account if you haven't got one already, then upload your video there. Share the link to the video here.
https://youtu.be/IfXV0SmH11M
This is the video of the issue from inside the car.
I will follow up with the external.
when you use advanced reply, you can see at the bottom additional options
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Valid file extensions: doc gif jpe jpeg jpg pdf png psd txt zip
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Above the linke where you type the text, there are many icons, among others insert image, insert video, quote, wrap, link etc
use the test forum first https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/f...hp?123-Testing
Easiest is to upload something on a free server and just post the link here.
Also one needs at first a certain number of posts to upload pics on the forum server
Last edited by shogun; 04-04-2019 at 10:46 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
https://youtu.be/z0uSi9cEEdU
Under the hood , with a demonstration of the excessive rpms in relation to the amount of throttle applied.
did you ever make a smoke test for air leaks? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I
Also check the ground wire from engine to chassis, on my 750 right side/pass side from engine to chassis in the area where the engine mount is.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
On our 735's there is a ground on the driver's side, on a support rail near the front engine mount.
Haven't gotten to do the smoke test yet, but I did get the stomp test to work finally. It's showing code 1222, the one about the Lamda control bank, but I'm not certain what that means, or what it would be an indication of.
Last edited by shogun; 04-07-2019 at 03:47 AM. Reason: unnessary quotes removed
From the error code table:
This code is stored when the DME detects excessivedeviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longerthan 10 seconds.
Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty,Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked,Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak,Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meterdefective and/or the combustion is being disturbed bymechanical failure (Spark plugs,, compression,intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.)
In practice this is normally a vacuum leak around the manifold....
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I have a bad feeling.
When I began my inspection this morning, I found a significant oil leak on the top of the ledge where the oil pan mates with the block. It was still blonde and fresh, and had run down the block. In that puddle there was also a half of a heavy washer.
I'm trying to post a picture from my phone, but it doesn't want to cooperate.
Use a free picture upload service and download it there and then post the link here
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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