My goal is to reduce oil starvation in high-G turns. I'm not trying to save the motor under catastrophic conditions, it's a stock S50, so replacement is cheap or I'd go S54.
But, it makes sense that you'd get flow-rate reduction over a longer hose. Now we need a fluid dynamics engineer to step in!
I talked to one of Canton's engineers about the check valve and he strongly recommended against it for whatever reason. Pulled it out and run without one now.
My AIM data shows rock steady oil pressure (thanks to the accusump), but I am not as good of a driver than the others posting so the cornering gs are much lower.....
As to adding just the Canton, you could get an S54 OFH and tap/plug one port?
I got the same advice from Canton. If I recall correctly, the reason they recommend no check valve is to avoid the flow constriction that it creates as oil flows through it. If you use AN-10 lines for big flow, you will effectively have a smaller line with the check valve.
My tank is mounted on the rear seat bulkhead (not ideal) but the pressure indicated at my gauge dash never drops below the lower limit. It's good to hear that you don't see any dips on a properly instrumented setup.
It'd be interesting to know what the gal/min flow of oil back into the sump of an S50/52 engine is at 7000rpm.
Then one could accurately pic the reservoir size, hose size/length, etc.
I'm still looking for an entry port into the pressurized side of things that's not too expensive. Even with a mechanical valve, this still could easily run $700 to implement, and for a stock engine, I'm not sure it's worth it. Although the setup might create some fun paddock discussions.
Last edited by aeronaut; 01-25-2020 at 08:30 AM.
One additional point I forgot to include above: The Canton rep also told me that excluding the check valve has the additional benefit of keeping the oil pump somewhat primed in starvation scenarios by back feeding it in addition to pressurizing the rest of the engine. When the starvation condition goes away, Canton believes the oil pump can more readily resume normal flow.
How much does that cap device cost in your earlier post? Seems as if that would do it.
And yes, it gets pricey when you add all the extras - braided hose, AN fittings, etc. I didn't add up my receipts (the first rule of racing), but I wouldn't be surprised if it ended up approaching the $1K mark. On the other hand, I just rebuilt my cylinder head prior to installing the Accusump, and that ended up being MUCH more expensive - new springs, cams, vales seals, retainers, machine work, labor, etc. All of the "while you're in there" stuff
Makes sense that without the check valve, you'd be keeping the system all the way back go the pump pressurized.
That roadralley thing mounts to the oil filter housing, and is $80. My only concern is the inlet size is a 12mm bolt size, meaning the pipe ID of that inlet would be about 3/8". (-10 AN hose/pipe ID is about 5/8"). I could quickly convert to -8 or -10 AN I would think, so the restriction would only be a few inches. Maybe I'll try that.
Good idea! Worst case, $80 tossed away. Pretty common in this hobby.
Quick thoughts.
1.) Why insist on no oil cooler?
2.) Why not an oil filter cap adapter? That is used for oil coolers so it must be pressurized right? Those adapters are cheap and can run an an10 line into one port and plug the other.
3.) What about that large hex plug on the side of your ofh? I believe that gives access to the oil pump output but not certain. May be able to tap that for an10 line direct to accusump....
1) It's "just' an HPDE car, so 15-20 minute sessions. IMO, an oil cooler isn't needed and is just extra expense and weight.
2) Haven't found anything under $190, and that's an ebay version. Would love to find a cheap one??
3) Good idea, I'll look into that!
EDIT: 3) Or, maybe replace the oil pressure sensor with an AN fitting, and put the sensor in a T-fitting in that line.
Last edited by aeronaut; 01-25-2020 at 05:36 PM.
And I'd always heard that lifter tik doesn't cause harm. Oil starvation is oil starvation. Looks like I'll be replacing all my lifters.
IMG_20200129_160933.jpg
Also check out the morosi oil accumulator. That's what I used to save a few dollars and holds pressure ALL off season.
Wow...cool, thanks.
fbirch - Did you ever switch to the 25 psi switch or does the 35 psi switch work for you? Also, do you have an idea of what the weight of just the accusump is?
And for anyone viewing this in the future wondering about cost. Looks like this is going to run me just under $700; you could shave off ~$100 if you switch to the manual value with the pull cable, and even more with just the valve. Price will also fluctuate based on how long our lines are.
My electric valve starts activating around 25 psi indicated on the dash pressure gauge. I don't remember if that's what I got with the 35 psi switch or if I changed the switch.
Although I didn't weigh the system, I estimate the 3 qt tank weighs about 10 lb empty, and I probably have 3-4 lb of steel braided hose in the cockpit. The fiber braided hose under the hood weighs very little, maybe 1-2 lb. Maybe 20 lb all in with oil. I probably spent over $200 on hoses and fittings.
Bringing this back up as I am a bit confused as to what the Accusump would do:
1) If using a manual valve, is it absolutely required to turn it on and off with the motor? Or can I just leave it on all the time and not benefit from pre-oiling but still protect for hi g corners.
2) When at idle, I’m assuming the Accusump would be trying to push oil into the motor? This would apply to the electric valve or manual valve both I believe.
1. The manual valve is way cheaper, and super simple. It works great. We leave ours open all day, then close for the night so it's ready to prime the engine in the morning. Now, this is certainly not a requirement, and we're mostly lazy/forgetful, so sometimes it stays open all weekend. Obviously when you wna to check oil, it need to be charged and closed (charge by revving to ~6000 rpm and closing)
2. Depends on the switch ... but typically, they're set to open at 20 psi, and close at 30 or something like that. So yes, at idle, it will be open until you rev and it build some pressure.
Thanks Scotch! I'd be lost without your advice. But yes, in a nutshell, I don't want to add complexity with the electronic switch. And if I forget to turn off the valve, nothing bad is going to happen, other than some of the Accusump functionality is lost. Now, where to mount this thing within driver's reach???
Mine is on the floor pan alongside the trans tunnel but no passenger seat made that an easy decision. Maybe behind the seat if you have a passenger seat? Oh, and I am pretty paranoid to turn it off every time I shut he car off. Not really sure why but I felt like an extra 3 at of oil in the pan wasnt awesome if I could prevent it.
Last edited by olemiss540; 11-25-2020 at 10:22 AM.
Last edited by MechEngrE36M3; 12-07-2020 at 11:22 PM.
Just another data point from me:
My car currently has the S52 oil pan with the VAC baffle and I run 1qt over factory specification without any oil cooler. I'm on NT01s and not super sticky tires like slicks though, so take that for what it's worth.
My car hasn't had a problem yet running in 100*F weather here in California doing several 20 minute sessions throughout the day.
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