I'd appreciate any first hand feedback from people who’ve run the Accusump system in their E36/E46 track cars – any good practice recommendations, things to look out for, do’s and don’ts, etc. I’m nearly done installing a 3-quart Accusump system in my E36/S52 M3 race car. I went with the electric valve EPC setup. It includes a pressure switch that automatically pushes oil into the engine when the pressure dips below 37 psi. I can lower that to 25 psi if needed.
My S52 has stock internals, apart from some mild cams that I just recently installed. In the past, I got lots of valve tick after a hard session, and I saw moderate upper engine wear (cam journals and valve guides) during the recent cam swap and cylinder head refresh. I already had a well-baffled oil pan built by Turner, so that's my reason for trying the Accusump.
The friendly folks at Canton Racing (seller of the Accusump) strongly recommended that I install the Accusump without a check valve. Their experience in looking at data from their customer base shows two reasons for omitting the check valve: (1) Check valves restrict flow in the forward direction, increasing oil temps, and (2) Back feeding oil to the oil pump keeps the system primed, decreasing air pockets when the oil pump takes over from the Accusump (i.e., pickup tube starts working again). Canton says that when the Accusump is supplying oil to the engine (without a check valve), most of the flow will go to the input side because that’s the path of least resistance. The small amount that flows to the pump/output is beneficial.
Has anyone here tried running an Accusump on an S52 or similar without the check valve, and what was your experience in doing so?
Last edited by fbirch; 11-29-2018 at 11:10 AM.
We run ours with the check valve before the oil cooler, so that the oil from the accusump goes to the engine, and not the oil cooler. We also opted for the manual valve. It simply stays on open the whole time when car is running, and the pressure in the accusump just floats with the engine oil pressure. On data, we've seen that the accusump seems to keep the engine at ~22 psi minimum when we suspect the oil pickup is starved ... this only happens for a couple seconds max of course, and one catastrphic pump failure, it seemed to keep the pressure for ~5 seconds before it started to drop. Too late to save the engine, but it was nice to see it was working as designed.
Running on 2 engines. Neither with a check valve as Canton told us the same. If its priming to oil line then the oil pump will push it towards the engine IMO.
What about using a manual shut off valve for start ups?
Thinking if you close valve when engine is running it will hold pressure. Then after the car has sat for a while between events you can open it per oil the system then start it up?
Also how much extra oil do you run? Does it depend on press you put into the Accusump?
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Thanks for the data point
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Great to hear that the no-check-valve setup works on BMW engines with no ill effects from back feeding the oil pump
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The electric EPS valve lets you pre-oil the engine. Just turn on 12V power to the unit with the engine off and the pressure switch will detect low pressure and open the solenoid, pushing oil to the engine. You can also turn it off at any point with the engine on by depowering it. The EPS lets you turn the system on and off much like a manual valve, but also offers an automatic mode via the pressure switch. With a 3-quart system you run 2.5-3 extra quarts I believe. You set the pressure of the air bladder to about 10 psi and your oil pump will push oil into the accumulator until it's full. At that point the pressure in the air bladder will have increased to something close to the oil pressure at full output
Last edited by fbirch; 11-29-2018 at 09:51 PM.
Thanks for the reply fbirch.
I will get mine installed and set up this winter, do you install it with just a "t" in the oil cooler line?
We are running an M20B25 with e30 oil cooler.
oilcoolerlines2.jpg oilcoolerlines4.jpg
Last edited by OLD MAN; 11-30-2018 at 10:53 AM.
Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link
Yes, put a T fitting on the cold (output) side of the oil cooler
Finally got my installation completed. Attached is a picture of the T fitting at the oil cooler. I managed to avoid the use of 90-deg fittings in the primary oil path between engine and oil cooler, I used fiber braided hoses under the hood and steel braided for the one hose that enters the cockpit.
T Fitting 2.jpg
Last edited by fbirch; 12-29-2018 at 08:37 PM.
I want to set up an oil cooler on my car. I have an oil cooler out of an older 7 series and I bought a new oil filter housing with fittings for cooler hoses. I am wondering if you are using M22x1.5 fittings which is what I have on cooler. Just wondering where I can by M22 female hose fittings to use with braided hose. Thanks,
PS I just found the Turner brand using AN10 hose fittings and plate. The cooler I want to use has M22 male threaded fittings on it.
Last edited by JDP530; 01-02-2019 at 07:29 PM.
My oil cooler is from the Euro E36. It has the push in type ports designed to work with the OEM hard lines. I bought the OEM-to-AN10 adapter plates from BimmerWorld. The same plate is used on the oil filter housing (see pic below). Not sure where to get the M22X1.5 fittings, but you could try giving Turner and BimmerWorld a call to see if they know of any.
Filter housing ports.jpg
Setrab oil radiators use M22 ports, and adapters for them are readily available.
See https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...D=SETRABANMALE
Neil
One nice feature of the Accusump EPC electric valve is that it comes with an (optional) dashboard LED that flickers whenever the valve is open (i.e., tank is supplying oil to engine). My valve opens when the engine pressure dips to 25 psi. On my car that only happens on track in very high-G right hand turns, right around the apex of the turn. The LED tells you that the Accusump is working when it’s supposed to be. But it also acts a low oil pressure warning indicator if it ever flickers when it shouldn’t – for example, on a straightaway.
If it ever comes on when oil starvation shouldn’t be happening you know you have a serious problem and need to shut down. Below is a pic of my setup – LED just to the left of the tach and EPC power switch just to the left of the lower oil temp gauge. A flickering LED is harder to miss than an out-of-range reading on a gauge.
Dash light & switch 2.jpg
To me it adds an additional failure point into a mission critical system. My manual valve is ALWAYS open an has zero chance of failure. Pressure is constantly entering and exiting the Accusump as oil pressure fluctuates.
I guess on the flip side, you can automate a process (electrical relays) to take the chance of human failure out of the process (forgetting to open the manual valve).
Yes, the blue tagged hose is the cold side flowing into the engine and the red tagged hose is the hot side flowing into the oil cooler.
I think there is still value in baffling the oil pan as it should reduce the amount of time that the accusump needs to be relied upon to keep the engine oiled.
BTW, you have a beautiful car!
Last edited by fbirch; 01-08-2019 at 08:41 PM.
I hear you and understand the point. To me the benefit is that the oil tank will have more supply pressure and oil volume to mitigate starvation when it's needed the most, and the stock oiling system functions normally when outside intervention isn't needed. Hopefully Canton supplies a reliable solenoid, as that would be the only extra failure point I could envision relative to the manual valve. There are plenty of examples of very high cycle count solenoids that are exceptionally reliable - such as the ones that make ABS work on track cars that trigger the solenoids hundreds or thousands of times per lap and do so for years on end. Hopefully the Accusump solenoid is robust. But if it isn't it can easily be modified to open permanently once the switch is thrown - in that case acting just like a manual valve - or removed completely.
The electrical system offers no benefit to counteract human forgetfulness. You still have to remember to throw the switch when you want the system to become active, just like a manual valve.
Small update: As stated in my opening post, my S52 had lots of valve tick after a hard track session. This was in spite of Turner's best oil pan baffle kit, installed by Turner themselves. After playing around with fittings and tank set pressure, I'm able to do a hard track session and not hear any valve tick.
I had to modify Canton's LED kit to keep it from burning out the LED. When the electric solenoid is energized/de-energized by the pressure switch, it creates high flyback voltage which is enough to bite you if you are holding the leads to get a voltage measurement (ask me how I know). Not only will that voltage kill the LED, it occurred to me that it might eventually degrade the pressure switch itself. A simple 50 cent clamping diode (standard practice on relay-activated solenoids) is enough to fix the problem.
I like having the LED to show me what parts of the track work the oil system the hardest; to assure me the system is still working, and to remind me that I forgot to throw the switch when I blast through a couple turns and realizes the LED isn't blinking. So contrary to my last post just above this one, the electrical system does help to counteract forgetfulness if you also install the LED. Once you get used to seeing it blink, you notice its absence.
Last edited by fbirch; 05-27-2019 at 09:39 PM.
Subbed for any updates. And I'm doing research on the accusump. I'm sure I'll be back with questions.
Here's a pic of the 3L tank on the rear bulkhead. There are large grade 8 fender washers and nuts on the back side of the bulkhead. I ran the hose under the frame for the passenger seat and through the firewall under the passenger dash. With this setup I'm able to have a passenger in the car. The tank is a bit farther from the engine than ideal, but so far it seems to work just fine.
3L tank.jpg
Interior hose.jpg
Footwell fitting.jpg
Ok, I'm going in on an accusump.
From a little research, probably the 2 Qt w/manual valve. Checkvalve or not, I'm not sure. Seems there's info that says no checkvalve is best.
I don't have an oil cooler, and don't have any desire to add one.
What's the best way to T into the system for the accusump, an oil filter cap with fittings, like below?
oil.jpg
Wait, why wouldn't this work. I only need one fitting that's basically bi-directional oil flow, right? And this has an M12, which is roughly the same size as an -8AN.
http://www.hardmotorsport.com/rally-...adaptor-block/
Most Accusumps use -10 lines, but -8 is probably ok. You only need the one port if you have no cooler, and no need for checkvalve ... the Accusump pressure will just float with oil pressure, and of course will keep the pressure above your set point (typically ~30 PSI). Make sure when you pressurize it with air, you set it to round 7 PSI when EMPTY. Also I'd get the 3 qt ... more volume will give you a couple more seconds of protection. Though if you're just using to fix cornering starvation, the smaller one is probably fine.
Last edited by ScotcH; 01-24-2020 at 11:34 AM.
Thanks! I'll do a little research on the options for hose ID.
From what I remember, their valves and fittings are 1/2 NPT which is equivalent to -8 in ID. I'd consider a checkvalve if you have a way to fit it inline to the oil flow since I think a starved pump will get backfilled by the Accusump before the main galley. But I have no proof of this. Definitely agreed on the 3qt. The whole thing is something you hope to not need but if you do need it, give it the best chance of protecting your motor. This is also anecdotal but something that gave me the final tip over the edge to go drysump is talking to a racing team engineer at PRI who said in his experience the Accusumps only reliably saved motors if they put them practically on the engine mount, vs the car interior where everyone puts them for ease of installation. I suppose the sticktion and inertia of the piston causes a delay in the Accusump line being repressurized, so the longer it is, the more time it takes and time is critical here (the reason why I'd want to run a checkvalve with the accumulator). But again, it's just an anecdote. I'd try to test it somehow, maybe throw a datalogger on the pressure signal, fire up the car at idle and after the Accusump is full, drain the oil and shut it down after you see the air pressure in Accusump start dropping. Then have a good look at the response time.
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