I took a gamble on a Z3 2.8, it was smoking and overheating. So I opened the engine to find everything is in good shape except the previous owner put in Bigserts and they pulled. I need a new engine block. I think I have three options and hopefully someone here can help.
1. Find another Z3 2.8 M52B28 aluminum engine, which sounds either expensive or hard to find.
2. Use the M52TUB28 block out of a 1999 328i or 528i. Will this work? Is the M52B28 aluminum engine block the same as the M52TUB28 aluminum block?
3. Use the M52B28 cast iron block(or entire engine) out of a 1996-1998 328i or 528i.
The car is beautiful, new tires original rims near perfect interior. The exterior trim is perfect. I just need to get the motor running.
Any help would be appreciated.
I'm not sure whether you are asking this, but I would definitely buy a complete engine, rather than a block. Also, I'd consider an S52. Bolt in, lots more power. Physically outside, they are the same, in fact many parts interchange. I'm not the expert, just read about it, but apparently all you need is engine and ecu, and maybe a power steering pump. Here's a thread about it: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=784354
Good oportunity for an LS-1 swap. ;-)
The block and rotating assembly between the aluminum M52B28 and M52TUB28 are the same. I'd also suggest a complete motor rather than block swap. S52 or any other iron block is an interesting option, but unless you're planning for boost, no need for the extra weight. I'd just try to find another TU myself.
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
Sorry but this is incorrect. The M52TUB28 is a twin VANOS engine and the water flow through the block and head is the reverse of the single VANOS M52B28. You can not use the M52TUB28 block with a M52B28 head.
Go for a complete engine swap. A M52B28 is the easiest. If you go for a M52TUB28, then also get the DME and engine loom. You will need to learn how to align the new DME with the EWS to get the engine started
1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
2000 3.0L Z3 Roadster,
There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.
Wow, thanks for all the responses. I am new to the BMW world, so all advice is appreciated. It sounds like the 1999 M52TUB28 'short block' swap isn't an option
I have worked on plenty of cars in my day but I have never been a heavy modifier. So the LS1 swap is not appealing. Also, I live in the Chicago metro area, so it has to pass emissions testing.
The S52 swap sounds interesting, but that must be a rare motor(expensive). And again emissions concerns.
It sounds like the cast iron M52B28 engine is the best way to go. I have found several available in junkyards and Craigslist for real cheap $250 - $800. I am interested in reliability over performance. So the question is will the cast iron M52B28 directly replace the aluminum M52B28?
I found a thread here where a member suggested its been done.
I have read other threads that the cast iron block is only 52 pounds more.
emissions testing is easy to bypass. If you decide you never want to wait in line at a emissions station again (or your car may not pass), there's an easy way to exclude yourself from that list.
In Phoenix, I've seen M52 motors around $800 and S52 motors around $1700. Well worth the $1000 or so for that much power.
Last edited by s8ilver; 11-28-2018 at 04:35 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Or you can bring it to hackentt and we can see a n54 e36/7.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just registered my newly purchased out of state 2000 roadster in Wisconsin and my DMV identified it as emissions exempt due to its age.
In Chicago Metro area, carsafter 1996 but not less than 4 model years oldhave to be tested.
Here is my Z3 with the bad engine.
I only know this for IL, possible something like this exists in other states. https://illinoisairteam.net/waivers-...ns-extensions/ is the site to go to and register your car under "sporting vehicle". All you do is give them your VIN, license plate and personal info (address, name and phone number). You get approved within hours and the result is you are removed from the check list of vehicles that require emissions. This has to be renewed every 2-3 years (I forget exactly) and can be done from anywhere. There is no mileage restriction, no special circumstances, nothing. You just go buy a plate sticker like normal without having to pass emissions. Thats it.
My 98 2.8 has an intake, ASC delete, M50 intake manifold and a 3.46 diff. Runs door to door with a buddies stock S52 M roadster that made 215whp on a mustang dyno. And we both have the driver mod. My 2.8 coupe has an M54B30 intake manifold and intake cam, catless ebay headers and a 3.46 diff. Runs fairly even (a little slower) with a buddies stock S52 M coupe. I just don't have the S52 hype like everyone else.
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
"hype"? 50 hp is 50 hp. I had both a 2.8 and the M, both stock except for KN filters, for a few months while I sold the 2.8. No comparison in acceleration (or handling of course). What is an "intake", if more than a KN filter? My 98 M has no ASC, but is not rated any higher than other years. So, it looks like you're getting equivalent of 50 hp from the M50 mod and a slight change in gearing. That's far better than anything I've read about so far.
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