Just picked up this 2008 535i with 110k miles. Its a bit rough, but hey it was only $3k.
I've had one just like that couple years ago, but it was flooded due to clogged sunroof drains and totaled.
Car has a sport package, PDC, heated seats. No Nav though and no Sport Transmission.
Speaking of transmission, it's toast like 10 separate codes. Thus the reason for the cheap price. Interior is not bad, just needs cleaning. Exterior has some scratches, but nothing major.
Its sitting on some lowering springs, no idea what kind.
Exhaust vanos code, so runs a bit rough at idle. Leaking from oil cooler housing.
Goal is to clean it up, rebuild or replace the transmission, throw some downpipes and intercooler and have a nice backup daily.
Some pics.
Looks pretty great exterior wise.
bet the transmission codes can be fixed with new mechatronics plus related parts
I'll pull the transmission later this week and I will take a look. I am going to take it apart anyway, most of the issues in the 6hp19 are related to pressure loss from either bad mechatronics seal or worn out stator bushings. I will probably put new clutches, new solenoids, Sonnax zip kit and new bushings. That way I don't have to do it twice.
If you have a n54 then it isn't a hp6 19 transmission.
Its semantics, Gen 2 6HP19 transmissions attached to a N54 is a 6hp21, but in reality its the same damn 6hp19 transmission with few revisions to the valvebody. The BMW calls it ga6hp19z.
Worked on the car last few weeks. Put it on my lift and started doing a once over.
Here is a list of issues.
- Oil filter housing leaking
- Missing subframe reinforcement plate - not happy with this, very unsafe to drive without that piece
- Missing all front and center splash shields
- Spark plugs look pretty worn
- Intake valves are just beyond bad, so much carbon that it must impede 30% airflow at least
- Leaking vacuum hoses from the pump to the canisters
- Code for Exhaust Vanos
- Possibly leaking oil pan, but there is too much oil to know for sure going to clean it up and find out
- Worn control arm bushings
Pulled the pan to take a look at the transmission, fluid was ok, no metal shavings, no funny smell. I removed the valvebody and found a completely cracked sealing bridge. That made me very happy. $12 much better than full transmission rebuild. Installed new Sleeve, 4 little seals and the bridge seal. Filled it up with Ford Mercon SP fluid for $7 a quart. New Filter / pan. With transmission done, I started working on the motor. First was walnut blasting, took forever had to break up the worst carbon with a pick before I could even put a dent in it. Got new vacuum hose for the canisters, new spark plugs. Installed new gaskets and put the intake manifold back in. Next was 2 vanos solenoids and oil cooler gasket.
Today I was finally able to fire it up and go for a drive. Engine runs smooth, but injectors are loud and I have a +30 long term fuel trim on bank 1. I also have Index 9 injectors on the same bank and Index 11 on Bank 2, so seems those are failing. I ordered 3 new injectors.
Best part is transmission works perfectly, just that stupid sealing bridge made it not shift.
Next is the suspension, install a new valve cover since the old one is pretty beat up and I am sure the PCV ports are all clogged. Once I deem it road worthy I can start some minor upgrades
Car on lift finally
Wrecked control arm bushings
Valves Before
Valves After
Broken vacuum hoses
Valvebody Out
Transmission rebuild or buy a $12 part? lol
Oil filter housing getting cleaned
While waiting for FCP Euro to deliver my parts I found some cheap wheels for my parts delivery wagon, could not pass them up for $200, my old silverado almost looks modern lol.
Transmission parts
Good work. I have done all that stuff to our 08 535xi that now has 135k. We recently broke a front coil spring. Definitely not something I expected. The coils started failing after I installed a JB4 tune. On these cars they weaken with age.
I would change the rest of your fluids — brake, diff, p/s, coolant, and cabin filters. I need to do my oil pan. It’s going to be a pain with the AWD.
I installed some newish coils. I had a set from a car with 60k miles.
Unfortunately project is getting more complicated. After I put it back together I am still getting a flare between 3 and 4th gear. It most likely has issues with the E-clutch. Also the oil pain leaking pretty badly. Since transmission will have to come out for a rebuild, I decided to just pull the motor and fix all the leaks at once.
While taking the front end apart, I noticed water pump bolt completely loose. The waste gate actuator was missing 1 bolt.... No idea who worked on it in the past but they cut some corners.
Motor is out. Super filthy.
Motor mounts are completely shot. Waste Gates worn out as well, will need replacing.
Decided on the 6MT swap and dynamic drive delete, going to install M5 Sway Bars as well.
Nice project. Good luck.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
I think I need new wastegates.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vENJpN2Aw7s
Also motor mounts lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42nLYhWSWzg
I expect to be changing my turbos in the next year or so. 08 535xi with 135k. Wastegates rattled a little when cold. I tightened them a little. Pain to get to on AWD car. I’d say this is not unexpected on a 10 year old turbo car. At least you are saving money by DIYing. I would not want to lay a shop to maintain one.
Got the wastegates apart. Ordered new replacement parts.
Got new wastegate parts. Pressed the bushing in and installed the new flapper and welded it up. Works great, no more play.
All done
Also got a new engine stand that is geared with a crank. So much easier to rotate the engine, you can spin it with one hand. Now i can do the pan gasket and get the block all clean.
While the turbo's were out I measured axial play. Not super happy with the results. Spec is 0.0015 to 0.003in. My front turbo is at 0.0095in, so totally shot. I think I will order some RB Stage 1's and reuse my turbine housing.
I was going to ask why you did not simply order a pair of rebuilt stage 1 turbos with new wastegates, cartridges, and at least a higher flowing impeller. I am leaning towards that — this is my wife’s car and it is not getting any major mods (just JB4).
You could rebuild them for $100 each, but once you take them apart chances of them being still balanced correctly are almost zero. They spin at 300,000rpms so anything out of spec would kill them quickly. Since it's a pain in the ass to remove turbos on this platform I will replace them.
Decided to skip the 6mt swap since the car will be a daily driver and the cost was getting pretty high. I do want the transmission to be reliable though. Going to do a full rebuild that will include upgraded bushings from Propulsive Dynamics and their upgraded G3 clutches that hold extra 30%. I will get the valvebody refreshed with a sonnax zip kit and all new solenoids along with a new torque converter. Should be good for 700hp and 100k miles.
Did some seals and gaskets on the engine. Removed and Installed front and rear main seal and pan gasket. Valve Cover and new injectors.
Front Seal getting removed
Seal out
Special sealant you need to inject with the new seal to keep it from leaking around the bedplate.
Front seal getting installed
Front seal all done with sealant injected and primer
Rear seal getting installed
Oil Pan removed, prepping for new gasket
Oil Pan gasket installed all new aluminum bolts and torqued to spec
New Index 12 Injectors
New Valve Cover installed
Last edited by Kaane; 01-29-2019 at 06:09 PM.
Damn you're going all out.
I agree. Good work, though. I think the auto goes well with the turbo motor— seamless power. Makes it faster than a manual.
Totally legit!
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Started on the transmission rebuild.
Took it all apart and did an inspection. The clutches didn't look super bad, but A clutch was worn on the edges, so bushings had too much play. E clutch bushings were totally shot way too much play.
Ordered some upgraded propulsive dynamics bushings that are better construction.
Here is a list of other parts for the rebuild.
1. Clutch Kit
2. Steels (they go between the clutches)
3. Bushing Kit
4. Full overhaul gasket set - ZF
5. Sonnax Zip Kit
6. Solenoid Kit - ZF
All taken apart.
Pump being inspected, all good, no wear, just replaced o-rings and front seal and sealing rings.
Pump all assembled, new stator bushing pressed in.
These cursed things took the longest. Pulling these bushings out of blind holes is an exercise in frustration. I had to buy 2 blind hole pullers to remove some of them. In the end, I got them all out
Here are the new bushings. They are all single piece construction unlike factory ones.
Valvebody was next. I used an ultrasonic cleaner to get the parts clean.
Valvebody split
All clean
All the valves out
New solenoids
Ready for assembly, Sonnax zip kit installed and new separator plate was used as well.
Valvebody all done
Now just waiting for the clutch packs and I can start assembly of the rest of the transmission.
In the mean time, my intercooler arrived. Got the PSP 600, since it's specific to the 535i and has a very nice dense core without needing to hack anything. Even comes with brackets to relocate the transmission cooler. Super nice.
Since my front turbos had play, I need a replacement. I was just going to get some stock ones, but I decided to roll the dice and try some fresh Chinesium , surprisingly they look pretty good, fit nicely and came with VSR balance sheets. Since my goal is only around 450whp maybe a bit more, I won't be spinning them super fast and maybe they will last. These have 16T compressors good for about 600whp. I know they won't last 100k miles, but neither will my motor. If they fail I'll just build the motor and upgrade them to something nicer.
Tried my new VSRF downpipes and VRSF inlets. On as well. Fit nicely. Inlets are 2 inch, to match the turbos.
While waiting on more parts, I inspected the rest of the suspension.
Strut mounts are destroyed, front struts completely collapsed. I ordered some Koni FSD replacements.
Sad mount
Collapsed strut
Fun continues
You are inspiring! I like the way you took the trans apart and upgraded it.
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