Hi Bimmerforums,
Happy Thanksgiving to all. I'm a new E23 owner (1984 733i) and new to the forum. I looked around for how to fix this and couldn't find anything.
The car's in great shape but I need to replace the radiator fan. It makes a horrible noise and wiggles when you grab it.
I got the new fan and the clutch wrench but still can't get at the nut. Other examples of the M30B32 I've seen have the nut between the fan and the clutch (like this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...MW/E32fan2.jpg), but mine appears to be up front. There's very little clearance between that and the radiator to get the wrench inside.
A friend and veteran BMW guy says I should remove the radiator. I can, but as it works fine I'd rather not mess with it for now. Do you have to remove the radiator to get at the fan, or am I doing something wrong here? Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.
I bought the cheap two piece fan clutch wrench set on ebay. works good, was around $20
Glad my picture helps. That was my Ljet, 12/82 if I recall.
Yep, buy the two piece set. Makes life easier when doing Motronic style distributor caps too. Consider a water pump and coolant flush while in there. FOR SURE do the 130mm water pump pulley swap and buy a 13x1040 belt. Check alternator bushings and ground strap if using the 80A unit still.
If you have a front mounted fan clutch, you really should consider converting it to the later style. Servicing it is much easier. B35 clutch and B35 fan on the two row radiator work awesome.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
If you still have the 13mm bolt in front, you can remove the rubber spacers on the radiator and push it a tiny bit forward. A ratchet box end wrench works great. You will still grind your knuckles on the radiator fins though. You would have had to to have purchased the correct clutch though.
If you bought the 32mm nut clutch (like pictured), you will have to change the water pump to match it.
Are you sure the water pump isn't causing the wobble?
It's been quite a few years since I've serviced mine (85 735i), so I may be forgetting some details.
AH YES. I have forgotten a water pump can do the same thing, that happened on the 05/85 POS I had for a parts car. Shaft had snapped from the impeller somehow.
Great point.
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
Thanks for the advice everyone. Turns out it had a wrong-sized fan clutch and water pump flange. No wonder it didn't look like any of the photos or guides I found online.
Addressing this now, car should be good to go after that. Can't wait to drive it more, it's a beast otherwise.
The L7 should have a 130mm already but it has more coolant flow at low speeds, fan spins faster, better AC at low speeds, and less propensity for lower rad hose to expand into the 144mm early one.
I think the 10:1 car has a Graf pump now. I wanted a metal impeller.
Ideal time for coolant flush and to clean AC condenser. Verify has 'A' thermo housing. This apparently provides better coolant flow into the head.
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