I painted it years ago. I used a high temp dirty silver paint... It's held up remarkably well.
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Good time to do motor mounts if they haven't been changed yet.
Ok, wtf? Just reading the manual.. do you really need to take exhaust, ands the belts off, remove the PS pump, (I’m swapping the rack back to stock, so it’ll be off) , and use new subframe bolts?
whats really necessary?
i mean, I’ll do it by the book if it’s really required.
Last edited by RRSperry; 11-28-2018 at 10:27 PM.
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PS pump maybe, I don't remember ... there might not be enough slack in the hoses when you drop the subframe. Probably just need to unbolt it and move down. You don't need new subframe bolts ... I've reused mine a million times (slight exaggeration), unless they're all corroded. Exhaust, dunno, we have slip joints so it always comes off
How is your oil pump nut holding up?
Since I'm taking the rack off, and I had to relocate the reservoir for the SC install, the houses shouldn't be an issue. I have no idea about the nut yet, but mission creep is always a problem for me...lol I mean this all started when looked and saw that the pan was dirty, and there was some dampness around the gasket. It's not like it's actually dripping...lol
I'll just play it by ear. Thanks
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Please lmk about to embark on this myself but and was contemplating on messing with the oil pump nut and sprocket. Supposedly, the issue with the nut backing off is less problematic with the s50 than say s52
Nothing to do really. Check that it's tight, and then hit the nut/threads with a cold punch. Creating an interference fit.
Look it's up, it's called "staking" the threads. You could also go to a lot more trouble and either tack weld the nut to the shaft, or use safety wire after drilling a hole in the nut. Neither are anymore efective than staking in this application.
I'd think it's not rally a big problem. When it did happen, it seem there might have been some issue with the engine running in reverse, say after spinning and stalling.... SInce the nut is left hand threads... But if you're there, you might as well do something.
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100% that's the issue. Spin on track, stall the engine, no more oil pressure. Have seen it happen several times. s52/s50 really no difference. The m54 is far worse for some reason ... I think the sprocket is bigger, so more inertia maybe. I mean it can happen in just normal conditions, but a spin/stall will almost always loosen it up or snap the shaft.
You do not need to remove the exhaust and the p/s pump only needs to be swiveled up out of the way. While under the car, I just grab the belt with my hand and remove it off the pulley to make the ps portion quick. Installs just as easy too. Really helps to fully remove all of the steering stuff, but I normally time all of my jobs with that work.
For the pan, have it blasted with 300grit, or finer, glass media. This will give it a good luster and keep the pores closed. I do a lot of aluminum blasting.
I don't always have the time to do blasting on paid work, but I do at least clean them
Last edited by Braymond141; 11-30-2018 at 12:23 AM.
I'd like to remove my subframe for a good cleaning and inspect to make sure there aren't any cracks....maybe have some spots reinforced. What engine brace do you use? Also, if anyone loves working on their car, I highly recommend investing on a quickjack.....it is by far, my favorite tool.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Back on topic, I ordered a VR gasket myself for this job in the next couple of weeks. Should be fine here. Anyone have tips for removing and installing the dipstick and o-rings? I'm guessing lube them up with fresh oil before installing them and the dipstick?
Edit: I ordered a Corteco gasket. I confused some of the other O-rings and other related gaskets with VR.
Last edited by LockDots; 12-03-2018 at 01:03 PM.
For removal, I think mine came out on the dipstick. If not, you'll find it in the recess on top of the pan where it goes in. Assuming you're completely removing the pan, it should be easy to find it.
For replacement, I just slid my new o-ring onto the end of my dipstick and allowed it to slide/seat as I pushed the dipstick back in after the pan was on. You can sort of feel when it pops into place, and you can also tell whether it's in all the way by whether the brackets for the dipstick are in the right place to bolt in.
Last edited by TostitoBandito; 12-03-2018 at 04:00 PM.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
You can’t fully push the tube in by hand with a fresh oring. Take the stick out of the tube and insert a screwdriver that fully covers the tube opening. Smack it with a hammer. It will “thunk” into place.
Many people get this wrong and don’t fully seat the tube.
Thanks for the tips, fellas.
Ok, got the rack out, and noticed that there are lots of little cracks around the bottom of the motor mounts. How much is acceptable?
so as mission creep settles in, are Lemforder mounts as good as the 2xs more expensive BMW mounts? $50 vs $100? Each...
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Yeah that’s what I thought, ordered new ones.. The old while you’re there....lol
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Actually the group N are $800 a pair...
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Yeah the BW copies are like $200/pair, versus like $100/pair for OEM.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Mount.jpgPan.jpgunder.jpg
Well a little progress.. Only managed to mangle one of the E torx bolts from the trans to the pan... $2 and a trip to the dealer, new bolt...
The mounts actually look pretty good. But new ones on the way.
I finally got around to pulling the LCAB. The correct tools makes it so easy... I'm now going to install the Treehouse racing style bushing I've had laying around.
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04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
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