Hi,
My 2009 335d DPF is going bad (at 134k miles). I believe, the cheapest option is to swap out with a used DPF with less miles on it. I am happy to pay for parts/labor if anyone has a good DPF and resources to do the swap and lives in Southeast.
Is there any other/cheaper option such cleaning the DPF? My repair shop (trustworthy and BMW expert) manager says, it's a waste of money, the DPF light will come back on in a month or so. It's a beautiful car (Monaco Blue/Saddle Brown), I hate to let it go however repairs are killing me! Other pending repairs are bad rear wheel bearing, bad oil pan and bad door actuator!
Thanks in advance for suggestions and advice!!!!
Seriously, I'd go drive the piss out of it. If you drive it hard...and I DO mean HARD, for an hour or two, you'll probably regen the DPF, Otherwise, your tech should be able to make the car do it, although I've never had to do this on a BMW.
Here's a thought:
https://www.carboncleaningusa.com/de...l/bmw/x5-3-0-l
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Chris,
Thank you so much for wealth of information. I have not been driving hard for the last 4-5 months because of bad wheel bearing. As per your suggestion, I am going to dog the D out for couple hours. If that does not help then I might try the last option on your link (Carbon Cleaning) if it's not too expensive. As per my shop manager, they have tried manual regen in the past and the DPF fault signal still comes back on after a month or so, that's why he advised for a new or used DPF. They charge $400 for the manual regen since they have to hook the laptop and drive the car for 2 hours.
I will keep you posted.
- Shirish
So let's back up.
Why do you say your dpf is going bad?
What codes do you have?
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
I did not get to see the codes. I started to notice slight loss of power/little lag in acceleration then after couple weeks, I started seeing on the dashboard the warning message and the DPF icon. A private BMW Repair shop manager (who I think is very honest and knowledgeable) diagnosed and tested the DPF for full 1 hour and concluded that DPF needs to be replaced. I asked him specifically if any sensors are triggering DPF message, apparently not. I guess, they have thoroughly tested and ruled out other culprits. They did not even charge me anything for diagnosis and recommended not to spend money ($400) on manual regen since they did not have much success with it in the past.
The car still has plenty of power/acceleration however, a little lag is noticeable. I have been told that eventually it will loose power altogether when the DPF gets completely clogged.
+1
Get the exhaust very hot, and this will help clean out the DPF too. As you are in Hotlanta, normally people drive like 20mph over the speed limit on the Interstates, so you should be good to put it in 2 or 3 and rev that motor out to heat up the exhaust. A good 20-30 minute drive should do the trick.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Thanks, Darin. Yes, in Hotlanta we do drive 20 over posted speed limit on interstates. I am going to vale it for at least an hour so that we give our best shot!
Careful; it's Thanksgiving day weekend, and every cop in the area's out there watching!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
True, this weekend will be risky! I will figure out a good/safe day, time and area to do the DDD(DPF Detox Drive)!haha
What was more common on your car is heavy carbon buildup in the intake manifold and intake tract due to egr + crankcase ventilation system allowing more and more oil into the intake as it ages.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Quick, where are my damned walnut shells?
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
You live in Atlanta, as do I. You drive a diesel, as do I. Georgia doesn't test emissions on diesels. What if some of the emissions parts magically "fell off" the car, and you gained a butt load of torque and hp at the same time? It happened to my truck.....
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
I see. Yes, I noticed a good number of 335d had gone through carbon blasting when I was doing my pre-purchase research on this car. Injectors going bad, SCR tank leak and carbon build up were the common problems.
Haha...Good point. Yes, I did explore DPF delete option as well and a shop in Raleigh, NC who specialize in BMW performance upgrades for diesel cars has given me quote of $2600! As per the shop manager here in ATL, even if with the help of some "divine intervention" my DPF gets converted to a straight pipe then I will still have lots of issues unless I "accidentally" drop all the egr related stuff on a bumpy road I wish there was a cheaper option to make DPF+egr disappear, I would LOVE to have more torque/hp!
Did driving hard and heating it good, fix the problem or have you found a shop to loose some parts off of the motor? Thanks, Jim in TN
Jim/Guys,
It took me so long to do the HARD drive because I had to get the rear wheel bearing replaced. It was making loud noise and bumpy ride at 80 mph+.
So here is the update:
I did take the car out on interstate and I was driving in sport mode (paddle shift). I was keeping engine reved up in 3000-4000 range and at times close to 4500 rpm. However, my HARD drive was short lived, after driving for about 20 minutes, the car lost power! I got warning on the dash "Engine Malfunction, Reduced power" and then symbol of engine stayed on the dash for rest of the trip back home. The engine had lost significant amount of power and torque. I somehow made it back home.
Next day, I took the car to my BMW shop and they found out fault was set by Knock Sensor and it is not going away even after they cleared it once. In addition, they found bad charge pipe, loose boost hose as well.
So, my shop manager advised me to put in a used DPF and then address the Knock Senor issue. I found one good DPF on eBay (off a 2011 at 59K miles on it). It will arrive next week.
Any idea what went wrong or what I did do wrong to kill the power/torque/boost?
A knock sensor will do that, put it in overprotect mode, aka reduced power. It happens, as every electronic part does have a limit on it's lifetime. Some last longer than others, but you have to remember that most BMW's are designed to be worry free for about 7 years or about 100k.
Bad charge pipe? Like it was cracked/broken? Yeah that too will cause problems as well for if there is a cracked charged pipe, it will play with the mixture.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
? Diesels don't have knock sensors.
- - - Updated - - -
Your boost leak caused the limp mode and errors. Fix the boost leaks.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
+1. A knock sensor on a diesel would be like a spark sensor on a gas engine. If it ain't knockin' it ain't runnin'.
Fix the boost leaks.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Oh! Let me reconfirm with shop manager what he meant by Knock Sensor! He mentioned that they cleared the knock sensor code (reason for Engine Malfunction warning message) and test drove and it came back on. Yes, Boost hose/leak is next in line after DPF repair. Shop said, the clamp on the boost hose has become loose and needs to be replaced. Looks like, the clamp is an integral part of the boost hose that's why just the clamp can be replaced. I will get details on bad charge pipe as well to know what's wrong with it.
I am looking at BIG bucks to fix the $550 for boost hose, $550 for charge pipe and I think, $1000 for Knock Sensor (as I recall). Poof....
Also, at the moment gas mileage has tanked big time! I think, I am getting around 20-25 mpg! I am under the impression bad DPF, boost leak, bad charge pipe is causing bad gas mileage. Or there is some other issue?
NOx Sensor!
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
FYI, the new updated part number NOx sensor (front sensor) is under $300 genuine BMW. Don't pay $1000 for the sensor.
There are 2, so it's important to know which one.
Last edited by 328 Power 04; 12-30-2018 at 03:50 PM.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Thanks Abel. I should have thought of that, but once KNOCK sensor was printed, that's all that I could think of!
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Oh, thanks for letting me know the actual price of NOx Sensor and the correction! My apologies for incorrect word. I typed it the way in which my shop manager said.
At the moment, my car is still driving in "limp" mode. I have clogged DPF, Loose Boost hose, Bad Charge pipe and Bad NOx Sensor.
I am getting DPF replaced (off a 2011 with 59K on it) this Friday. Which one of the remaining three could bring the power/torque back? Or I will have to fix all of them to get my out of limp mode? I am trying find an economical way and trying to space out repair expenses. I love this car but it's breaking my bank Phew....
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