Cel won't illuminate ever

[Bzwax]

(97 328is) I'm about to do emissions for my car and the CEL doesn't light up when you turn the key to check it's operation or when faults occur and I've replaced it with another working light with no luck. Anything else to look into?

[bmwdirtracer]

Someone has likely broken the LED, or the circuit, in some way.

In North Carolina, you will absolutely fail inspection if your CEL doesn't light up ever. I doubt if Phoenix will be any different.

Likely, you'll need to replace the instrument cluster, unless you can send yours off to get it repaired. (Did it take a bulb for this, or is it like most E39's, which use an LED?

A used instrument cluster will carry its own set of problems; like a tamper dot on the odometer, and the wrong mileage.

[Bzwax]

Yeah Phoenix is the same that's my issue. Last time I just registered the car out of town but I'd like to avoid that and finally address this. I pulled the cluster back and saw the bulb was missing so I just used the airbag bulb since I could see that was working but it still hasn't solved it. And I'll have to remove the steering wheel and cluster to get a better look to see if it's just damaged but the screws are stripped on the steering wheel so that's another problem to deal with first.

[328 Power 04]

You can pull the cluster without removing steering wheel just fine.

[shogun]

Here all the bulbs are shown https://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tec...-90-Gauges.htm
1: Temperature warning. 2: Right turn signal. 3: Left turn signal. 4: Oil pressure warning. 5: High-beam indicator. 6: Battery-charging indicator. 7: Low-fuel-level warning. 8/9/10: Gauge cluster illumination. 11: AST warning. 12/13: LCD/odometer illumination. 4: Air bag warning. 15: Catalytic converter warning. 16: Parking brake indicator. 17: Brake fluid warning. 18: Brake pad wear warning. 19: ABS warning. 20: Seatbelt warning. 21: System check control. 22: Automatic transmission warning. 23: Not enabled. 24: Check-engine warning. 25: Convertible anti-roll warning. 26: Not enabled. 27: Rear fog lamp. 28: Front fog lamp.

You can remove the cluster without removing the steering wheel, copied:
The first step is to write down which bulbs are burned out, and then disconnect the battery. I really can't stress this enough, for reasons I'll explain later in the text. Make sure you have the proper radio code required to reset your radio if you do disconnect the battery. Nothing is more frustrating than realizing your radio is dead and you don't have the code (although it is available from the BMW dealer).

With the battery disconnected, use a small stubby screwdriver to remove the two screws that fasten the gauge clusters to the top of the dashboard. On some later cars, these screws may require a stubby Torx driver--or you might be able to get away with using a small flat-head screwdriver in the top of the Torx head.
With the two screws removed, you should be able to pull the cluster out of its home in the molded dash. This, of course, is easier said than done. There isn't a big grab handle to pull the cluster out with. The best method is to grab the top of the cluster with your fingernails and pull it down. Using a soft plastic wedge, such as an old credit card, can help, and it won't damage the delicate plastic assembly.
With the gauges pulled out from the dash, you now need to reach behind and disconnect the wire harnesses from the rear. For each harness, you need to push a small tab on the rear of the connector, which then allows the white retaining lever to be lifted up. Don't use too much force, as you will break the delicate retaining levers; then the connectors will never be secure. (See Photo 2 for details.)
With the harnesses disconnected, you can now maneuver the gauge cluster out from the car. Be careful not to scratch the front of the gauge cluster on your steering wheel column. The removal process will require you to turn the steering wheel. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it so you can rotate the steering wheel. Verify that your battery is disconnected--if you turn on the ignition with the gauge cluster disconnected, the air bag computer will sense a fault and will trigger the air bag warning lamp. The air bag warning lamp can only be reset by using a special reset tool.

[Bzwax]

Just to clear things up. I was able to pull back the guage cluster but my steering wheel does not move telescopically or in any way but rotating so I don't understand how I can get the guage cluster out without the steering wheel removal based on the space that is between the wheel and dash. (It's an m3 wheel if that makes any difference) but there's not enough clearance to squeeze the cluster out (or my hand in any further to disconnect the harnesses) based on what I've seen just replacing the cel bulb.


How can I check that the ecu is providing voltage to the cel when the key is turned to acc?

[bmwdirtracer]

Are you sure your steering column doesn't have a lever on the bottom which allows it to tilt? The screws for the airbag cover are T30; you usually need a long T30. They get stripped when people use a T27. Some wheels just use a lever-type release for the cover; it's really hard to relate how to release this type, in print.

Still, I've not met an E36 that I haven't been able to squeeze the cluster out of, without removing the wheel. To get your hand in there to release the plugs, turn the cluster sideways a bit. It helps if you are familiar with how the releases work.

The CEL does not illuminate with the ignition switch in ACC position 1; it has to be in "run" position 2.

The CEL is triggered by pin 16 of the X-16 connector of the cluster. This is a 26 pin WHITE connector. It is a .5mm green wire.

NOTE THAT THE DME DOES NOT PROVIDE POWER -- IT PROVIDES THE GROUND !!!

This is where that information came from, so you can find things like this in future:
http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[Bzwax]

Okay I want to see if that is getting ground signal because I know the bulb works.

[bmwdirtracer]

If you're doing all this with the cluster in place, it's really difficult to screw those tiny bulbs in correctly. The socket and the bulb have tiny metal tabs which bend and break and burn. Testing that pin of the connector with the cluster in place will also be agonizing; a test light probably won't fit into the hole, you'll need to put a needle in there, and test the needle. And trying to read, or count pin numbers with the cluster in place? You need to get the cluster out in order for your diagnosis to be reliable.

[328 Power 04]

To answer questions...

I've removed the cluster from my fixed steering column 328is many times, without removing the steering wheel.
Disconnecting the connectors is a little tricky, but it's possible, and gets easy.

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Also, is your engine ecu original to car?

Any software or tuning/coding done to the car by you or someone else?

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Try the instrument cluster tests to see if it comes on from its own tests:

http://bmw-e36.com/tips/206-built-in...dashboard.html

[Bzwax]

So the test only illuminated seatbelt brake fluid and probably but I kept it pulled airbag light.

I think the combination of m3 wheel and non telescopic option prevents it from being removed without the wheel removal I've tried all different ways of turning the wheel and there's not even enough room to get to the plugs but I was able to properly put the bulb where the cel would illuminate and I was sure it's touching the contacts of the board holding the bulb as well as bent the bulb tabs to hold itself in place once screwed in properly. (Wasn't easy but it was all possible)

The car (I believe) has a burble tune but I'm unaware of anything else about it. It's not stock and has probably been abused I got it in rough shape but it runs well now just can't get the cel on to pass emissions.

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Is it possible that someone tuned out the ability to have the dme light my check engine light?

[Bzwax]

Also when looking at the bottom row of the cluster about half of the bulbs are missing mostly from the left side of the cluster except for the cel bulb which I pulled from the airbag and tested again after it's removal to ensure it was working then put into the cel location. So I understand why they aren't all illuminating however I only care about the cel coming on for 1 second when keys put into run position so I can pass emissions