New to E21's: quick hello and a bit of help needed!

[floatinghead]

(Warning, a bit long!)

Hi there,

Recently purchased an '82 320is that I found to use for parts but have decided to fix it up a bit and keep it driving. I've had a 2002 for a while, but this car is new to me. I'm a novice mechanic, but willing to get my hands dirty and want to do as much as i can to get it running well. I've been looking a lot on here to learn as much as i can, but still a bit unsure on a well, a lot of stuff!!

So the first task at hand is getting it to pass emissions. I failed the first time with a high CO reading of 1.6% and need to be under 1%. HC's were ok and it passed visual inspection with no smoke out the back ( at least that time!)

things i've fixed/replaced since then:
- spark plugs
- new oil and filter 20w50 castrol gtx
- battery
- air filter
- new rubber boot at bottom of air filter housing
- vacuum line to distributor
- cleaned out radiator with all new hoses, bmw blue coolant and new 80deg thermostat

- checked 02 with multimeter and reading fluctuated from about .4v to .6v. not sure if it should have bounced around or not, kinda new to that.
- checked spark plugs and 2 out of 4 looked good.

Changing thermostat was a huge help. it wasn't getting warm enough, so now its getting just below 1/2 way, and isn't stumbling at low RPM's like it was before the change. The car starts up every time with ease, so thats been good.

Now, the not so good: I went again to DEQ today and the car was all up to temp and felt like it was running good, but when she asked my to hit the gas, i think i hit it a bit hard and i guess there was smoke out the back, so an automatic Fail! damn it, She said it wasn't that bad, only on revving the engine, but still a Fail.

3 things to add that or may not be of importance:
1. The idle was running a bit high, about 1200 while i waited for my inspection.
2. I noticed some oil leaking from the exhaust manifold near cylinder #4, but not sure if that could have been the smoke out the back.
3. See attached picture: Any idea what this connector is? I don't know if its supposed to be connected to something important!


Potential next steps are:

1. check dwell and timing.
2. check plugs again
3. Adjust idle down from 1200
4. check 02 reading again and maybe adjust mixture.
5. check again for smoke out the tail pipe and see what color is (blue or black)
6. look at exhaust manifold leak a bit more closely ( if thats actually where its leaking from)


anyway, thats what I got and maybe thats too much for a first post, but appreciate any help in advance. I've been reading lots of older posts and theres a lot of good info, but i'm not quite sure where to start

Baron
Portland, OR

[Tom D]

did you get a reading before she failed you?

smoke was probably bad valve seals, which can be replaced without removing the head.

[okieflats]

one thing I've done to get a car to pass smog is put on a new fresh CAT. you know what I mean? even if that is not necessarily the real problem it will cover up other sins. The HC will drop. even though you don't have an HC problem, a new CAT would make the HC drop more. and I think it would make all the other bad numbers drop. then after passing smog someone might hypothetically remove the new CAT, put the old one back on, and that way still have the new CAT for two years later when another smog test is required.\

probably best to remove the head, inspect it and replace seals and whatever else it needs. maybe just valve seals to fix the smoke issue. do you need to get it on the road right away as daily driver?

[floatinghead]

I never had a chance to have test completed once she saw smoke. Going to check it out with a helper this week to see if any smokes comes out again.

And I like the idea of the new CAT. Seems like it would help...
As for the car, it’s not urgent to get on the road as I have a daily driver. Just want it registered so I can park it on the street without getting a ticket.

As far as valve guides are concerned, are they expensive to have replaced?


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[floatinghead]

Tom D: at the deq, she asked me to rev the engine and I guess it smoked a bit and that was it. Wouldn’t do the actual tail pipe reading. I wonder if a smoother acceleration would have not smoked, but I kinda blipped it. I’m going to have a helper this week to see what it looks like myself.

And okieflats: I like the idea of swapping a new cat in and keeping for the 2 year emissions anniversary. I should probably get a new o2 sensor as I’m not sure how old it is...

And any idea on cost of replacing valve seals? And Are the valve guides something different?


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[320iAman]

Welcome to the e21 forums. The O2 sensor fluctuating is normal--if it gets stuck at a certain voltage--needs replacement. Valve stem seals are not expensive- I have sold a couple of 8 packs for $10 inc shipping-these were in HG Kits. Viton valve stem seals is what I'm running and last much much longer than nitrile-Buna N valve stem seals-which is stock in HG Kits.

Part number is BMW 11 34 9 059 169,, here is 12 Victor Reinz for $13 incl shipping on ebay-these are Nitrile.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-BMW-E10...fq20:rk:3:pf:0

Here is Viton valve stem seals for M10 motor ect. for $20- Qty 8 incl shipping with 5% Teflon.Brand new Production Runs..I'm going to buy a set of these my self----extra for the my back up Cylinder Head I have--in VG Shape ..Hurry only 7 sets left.Looks like they fit the M10 Family of Engines- M115,M116,M41,M98,M118,M10B18,M05,M17,M15,M43,M64, M10B20, and M31.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-2000TI-...S!-1:rk:3:pf:0



Randy

[floatinghead]

320iAman: thanks so much for all the info. I'm going to do a little investigating this week and at least make sure the basics ( timing, dwell, etc...) are all in good order.

Are valve seals something that can be done by a shade tree mechanic with some patience, or does it need to go to a machine shop? I've never removed a head before, but have a friend who could probably help out.

thanks,

Baron

[okieflats]

You need to remove the valve springs ( and keepers ) to change the valve stem seals. I would remove the head and take it to a shop. And get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual for help removing the head. You need to set cylinder #1 to TDC compression stoke. You need to know what that means and be able to do it, or you'll get yourself into trouble. There's more to it than just unbolting a bunch of stuff. Apparently a lot of people do change valve seals without removing the head. You still need to remove the valve springs. And you also need to not let the valve drop when you do that. In this video the fellow is using compressed air to hold the valve up. There's lots of how-to videos online but most of them suck. Try watching at least the first few minutes of this one, it seems decent.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZNVKgD9ubA

[320iAman]

I ordered a set of Viton Valve seals, be here Saturday.. It takes patience to remove a cylinder head and reinstall-drop in a new Head gasket as well , Haynes 18025, BMW 320i 1975-1983, Automotive Repair manual, the first time I did this on this car-I went the whole deal-rebuilt cylinder head and so forth, I was losing much oil thru the valve seals- that has shrunk back letting oil thru to the combustion chamber. I decarbonized the pistons with a wooden tool that chipped the carbon off and a vacuum cleaner to catch all the chips.


Randy