Transmission Selector Shaft Seal leak

[edoinfl]

Hello,
I brought my 98 M Roadster in for an oil change and the mechanic showed me that the oil was leaking out of the transmission shaft seal. I had the shop replace the seal but then, upon picking up the car, the mechanic told me that it is not uncommon for the new seal to leak a little as well and that it is common on these cars. Makes me wonder why I should've spent hundreds for the repair. Sure enough less than 1 week back from the shop and it is once again leaking. Has anyone in this forum experienced the same issue? I'm trying to determine if I'm getting reliable information or if I should look for another mechanic shop. The shop I brought my car to is a BMW specialty repair shop.
Any advice appreciated.
Ed

[Randy Forbes]

I replace them all the time__for others, NOT on my own cars__but I leave the original one in situ, driving another one in on top of it. In that fashion, the new seal only has to catch anything the original seal let slip by.

Your car is now twenty (>20) years old, so if you're thinking that everything on it is going to be like a new and perfect car, you're setting yourself up for lots of disappointment. While these cars were indeed once new, they were never perfect, even back then.

Welcome to the world of classic cars

[saneesh8]

Did you use the BMW part or aftermarket?

First time, i replaced with an aftermarket. Lasted only 3-4 months before it started leaking again. Used the BMW part next time and no more leaks.

[Randy Forbes]

Whenever possible, genuine BMW replacement parts (BMW brand packaging, sourced via one of three__3__BMW dealers).

Notable exceptions include Ireland urethane subframe mounting bushings, Rogue E36 differential covers, Koni shocks, and the like.

[edoinfl]

Good advice Randy, I like the idea of driving the new seal on top of the original one. I am new to the classic car scene so I guess I need to lower my expectations. I don't know if the shop used an OEM or aftermarket seal. Most likely aftermarket it appears. Just don't understand how it can leak a week later. Not like its a $20 fix.

[Vintage42]

... I leave the original one in situ, driving another one in on top of it. In that fashion, the new seal only has to catch anything the original seal let slip by...

I was told my seal was seeping. Good to know that another seal can be driven on top of it to help. So the old seal does not have to be picked out, but I guess the shifter linkage must still be removed to put the new seal in.

[bluptgm3]

Why not just install two (2) new BMW seals.


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[Randy Forbes]

Good advice Randy, I like the idea of driving the new seal on top of the original one. I am new to the classic car scene so I guess I need to lower my expectations. I don't know if the shop used an OEM or aftermarket seal. Most likely aftermarket it appears. Just don't understand how it can leak a week later. Not like its a $20 fix.

I've been doing this for a while now, at least ten (>10) years, and was driven by the desire to NOT SCRATCH the selector shaft trying to remove the old seal. I've be doing the same practice on Healey steering boxes__notorious for leaking__for three times (3X) as long.

I was told my seal was seeping. Good to know that another seal can be driven on top of it to help. So the old seal does not have to be picked out, but I guess the shifter linkage must still be removed to put the new seal in.

Yes, I use a 13mm deep 6-pt Crafstman socket to move the 1st inward. Tap gently, and only go as far as needed (the other Randy says if it's driven in too far, it will limit travel on the rod; guess I've been lucky...). The same 13mm socket is used to seat the new seal.

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS lubricate a lip-type seal before insertion. ALWAYS!

Why not just install two (2) new BMW seals.

You could, as long as you don't score the shaft removing the original seal...

To that end, I just recently found (someone on here posted a link to it) the correct tool used to safely remove that seal, so now I'm torn as to whether I want to continue putting a second seal in, or replace it, maybe putting in two (2) new seals!

New tools:

[bluptgm3]

I've been doing this for a while now, at least ten (>10) years, and was driven by the desire to NOT SCRATCH the selector shaft trying to remove the old seal.

Yes, I use a 13mm deep 6-pt Crafstman socket to move the 1st inward. Tap gently, and only go as far as needed (the other Randy says if it's driven in too far, it will limit travel on the rod; guess I've been lucky...). The same 13mm socket is used to seat the new seal.

ALWAYS lubricate a lip-type seal before insertion.

I just recently found (someone on here posted a link to it) the correct tool used to safely remove that seal.

New tools:

Can this tool be used to pull and replace a seal w/tranny in the car?



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[Randy Forbes]

Can this tool be used to pull and replace a seal w/tranny in the car?



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Easily. At a minimum, the shift rod would have to be disconnected, and the connecting nub taken off the shaft, but clearance-wise, yes.