Couple issues (smoking, no power and shaking at stops)

[badabing86]

So recently I purchased a 2001 740i and first two months no issues, but anytime I did WOT it would have no guts when accelerating then CEL would flash. When I come to stop if would be shaking and stuttering, but once I turn the car off and back on its like it never happened. Thats one issue, second issue is car is smoking when turned on and going through several quarts a week of oil. Noticed oil in the spark plugs area so changed the valve covers and still smoking, what else would be causing this issue?

[acspecialists]

Get a laptop set up with INPA and a 20pin connector, you needs some codes and live data. As for the smoking start with the OSV, meeknet is the first place to go when you have a problem.

[Sundaycruzer]

Sounds like the pcv system has failed.

[badabing86]

I dont have a laptop set with the INPA but I will need to get that done then this week to give more information since I have had codes ran before and it was for several misfires due to spark plugs being fouled up in oil. So need to see if that changed.

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Sundaycruzer is the PCV the same as the OSV or are they different? I know the OSV is the one located in the rear of the manifold correct?

[clarkitect]

PCV/CCV is located at the back of the intake manifold. OSV is located behind the timing chain.

Sounds like misfires, possibly oil fouled like you say related to drinking all that oil.

[Sundaycruzer]

Sundaycruzer is the PCV the same as the OSV or are they different? I know the OSV is the one located in the rear of the manifold correct?[/QUOTE]

Yup osv a unfortunately you probably have a bad oil separator too. But do the osv first. Some people do it in car I highly recommend taking intake off and cleaning oil out of it, that’s up to you. I would also pull the left hand valve cover (drivers side in us)and see if the oil separator has broken hose. If it is, ocv won’t fix your problem. Had this problem before.

[Timm]

That doesn't sound like a crankcase ventilation problem - but it sounds exactly like blocked cats - more info here:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_84...l_Throttle.htm

[clarkitect]

PCV is the easier one, located at the back of the intate. OSV is behind the timing chain, much more difficult. but Sundaycruzer is correct about what could be wrong. In all honesty the OSV probably has the cracked hose and is probably all gummed up anyway. I also had this problem. Replacing everything along with the timing chain guide job fixed it up.

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/BMW_M60...entilation.htm

- - - Updated - - -

That doesn't sound like a crankcase ventilation problem - but it sounds exactly like blocked cats - more info here:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_84...l_Throttle.htm

Could an oil burning issue lead to clogged cats?

[badabing86]

Where On the driver side would I see if the hose is cracked? Damn I wish I knew this before when I had the valve cover off. I'm going to get my codes read this afternoon to get more info on what is going on to see if it can lead me towards what is wrong with the acceleration. From what I have been reading the loss of power and symptoms can be due to clogged cats, so im wondering if the large amount of oil being burned can be the reason to the clogged cats.

So would it be wise to order a new PCV and see if that fixes it hold off until I pull the valve cover off?

[Sundaycruzer]

Where On the driver side would I see if the hose is cracked? Damn I wish I knew this before when I had the valve cover off. I'm going to get my codes read this afternoon to get more info on what is going on to see if it can lead me towards what is wrong with the acceleration. From what I have been reading the loss of power and symptoms can be due to clogged cats, so im wondering if the large amount of oil being burned can be the reason to the clogged cats.

So would it be wise to order a new PCV and see if that fixes it hold off until I pull the valve cover off?

There’s plenty of threads on oil separator. It’s behind the upper timing guide. Google it
Also listen to timm he’s always the first person to listen too. But if it’s smoking at start up that’s one issue I think you might have two issues. Need codes to verify

[Timm]

I've changed my opinion - it's cats AND the crankcase ventilation system

[badabing86]

Codes I got from clearing codes and running again are :
P0011
P0211
P1341
P1353
P1357

Any ideas on next plan of attack ?

[Timm]

Get a garage to do a back-pressure test at the O2 sensor insertion points - I am convinced you have a blocked catalytic converter.

[badabing86]

I had a question in regards to this issue for a possible work around for the moment. If this is a Catalytic issue, can I simply do a cat delete for the time being till I have the ability to purchase new cats? Or will there be issues that will happen from that?

[acspecialists]

Yes, you will get codes but a few guys have done a cat delete or just busted the material out. Make sure to test and confirm the problem first.

[951Dreams]

Couple of things to clear up.

CCV/PCV is the plate bolted to the back of the intake. All it really does is limit the vacuum to a set amount for sucking the oil/air mix through the OSV so it can do it's job.

The "pipe" running along the right side (facing the engine) is UNDER the intake. One end is connected to the bottom of the CCV at the back of the intake, the other end goes into a fitting at the front of the engine. With a flashlight and some contorting you can see both ends. I found in my "Smoking on startup saga" thread the tub CAN be removed with the intake and valve covers on. But you have to remove the throttle body and CCV to get it out. The front side has the rubber piece that fails and causes issues. Just wasn't my issue .

OSV is the Oil Separator Valve that's behind the timing chain covers. It's a HUGE project to get to. And there are TONS of WYIT (While Your In There) things that need done if doing it. Timing chains, timing chain guides, tensioners, gaskets and hoses galore! It's BIG project, and isn't cheap!

I vote with Timm, worth looking into your cats. I've had clogged cats burn valves on a Toyota Van I used to own. After replacing the valves 2x and even replacing the engine once, I finally figured it out after the 3rd burnt valve. I was done with it by then, and it went to the salvage yard. All due to a clogged cat. Just FYI. I always suggest replacing them if there is any question.

Now to your last question. You CAN bypass them. I honestly don't know how much the computer cares on these. Some cars will run funky with no cats unless you can program the computer to not care anymore, and adjust trims accordingly. Old school logic tells us cat deletes will always improve performance. But back then cats were nothing really but restrictions on the exhaust. Modern cars can take that back pressure into consideration, I've seen performance LOSS and the computers go crazy about the cat missing. Mostly just an annoying light, and codes about the cats not doing their job, but I hate SES/CEL lights being on. They are your first indication something isn't right, and it's easy to miss something important. Take my Toyota van. I always had a CEL about misfires (cause burnt valves). I stopped checking it, cause it was always on. It finally started throwing codes about an overheating cat, but I never knew till it was to late. If I had read the codes I would have known the cats were bad and replaced them. Might still have that van today. I really liked it.

My personal suggestion is to never do cat deletes on modern cars if your still using the stock computers. Stand alone systems are a whole different story.

[Sundaycruzer]

Couple of things to clear up.

CCV/PCV is the plate bolted to the back of the intake. All it really does is limit the vacuum to a set amount for sucking the oil/air mix through the OSV so it can do it's job.

The "pipe" running along the right side (facing the engine) is UNDER the intake. One end is connected to the bottom of the CCV at the back of the intake, the other end goes into a fitting at the front of the engine. With a flashlight and some contorting you can see both ends. I found in my "Smoking on startup saga" thread the tub CAN be removed with the intake and valve covers on. But you have to remove the throttle body and CCV to get it out. The front side has the rubber piece that fails and causes issues. Just wasn't my issue .

OSV is the Oil Separator Valve that's behind the timing chain covers. It's a HUGE project to get to. And there are TONS of WYIT (While Your In There) things that need done if doing it. Timing chains, timing change guides, tensioners, gaskets and hoses galore! It's BIG project, and isn't cheap!

I vote with Timm, worth looking into your cats. I've had clogged cats burn valves on a Toyota Van I used to own. After replacing the valves 2x and even replacing the engine once, I finally figured it out after the 3rd burnt valve. I was done with it by then, and it went to the salvage yard. All due to a clogged cat. Just FYI. I always suggest replacing them if there is any question.

Now to your last question. You CAN bypass them. I honestly don't know how much the computer cares on these. Some cars will run funky with no cats unless you can program the computer to not care anymore, and adjust trims accordingly. Old school logic tells us cat deletes will always improve performance. But back then cats were nothing really but restrictions on the exhaust. Modern cars can take that back pressure into consideration, I've seen performance LOSS and the computers go crazy about the cat missing. Mostly just an annoying light, and codes about the cats not doing their job, but I hate SES/CEL lights being on. They are your first indication something isn't right, and it's easy to miss something important. Take my Toyota van. I always had a CEL about misfires (cause burnt valves). I stopped checking it, cause it was always on. It finally started throwing codes about an overheating cat, but I never knew till it was to late. If I had read the codes I would have known the cats were bad and replaced them. Might still have that van today. I really liked it.

My personal suggestion is to never do cat deletes on modern cars if your still using the stock computers. Stand alone systems are a whole different story.

My osv was my start up smoking problem and have found the same with 2 other cars. If you replace your cats then throw more oil through the cats it will end in the same result. Pugged cats. One e39 had same symptoms as op and after replacing osv and running car symptoms of plugged cat were gone. FWI

[badabing86]

I ordered the CCV/PCV so I can replace that since I really want to stop blowing smoke out the ass on start up and at lights. Cause seriously its not like a small puff its like a cloud of smoke. If it continues to smoke I will then look into the "pipe" you suggested to look at since I know this would be the easiest to look afterwards. If that needs to replacing or is fine then I believe its the OSV and would hate to go through that process since it would be a pain in the ass but would just take care of everything while Im in there. Fingers crossed.

I was only looking to do the CAT delete after fixing the oil smoke issue has been resolved and the cat delete would be Temporary thats why I was wondering if it would be that detrimental of a thing to do. Holidays coming got me tight on cash but I need my car working again.

Appreciate all the information that you gave me, will give me somewhere to start and figure out how to get this fixed.

Couple of things to clear up.

CCV/PCV is the plate bolted to the back of the intake. All it really does is limit the vacuum to a set amount for sucking the oil/air mix through the OSV so it can do it's job.

The "pipe" running along the right side (facing the engine) is UNDER the intake. One end is connected to the bottom of the CCV at the back of the intake, the other end goes into a fitting at the front of the engine. With a flashlight and some contorting you can see both ends. I found in my "Smoking on startup saga" thread the tub CAN be removed with the intake and valve covers on. But you have to remove the throttle body and CCV to get it out. The front side has the rubber piece that fails and causes issues. Just wasn't my issue .

OSV is the Oil Separator Valve that's behind the timing chain covers. It's a HUGE project to get to. And there are TONS of WYIT (While Your In There) things that need done if doing it. Timing chains, timing chain guides, tensioners, gaskets and hoses galore! It's BIG project, and isn't cheap!

I vote with Timm, worth looking into your cats. I've had clogged cats burn valves on a Toyota Van I used to own. After replacing the valves 2x and even replacing the engine once, I finally figured it out after the 3rd burnt valve. I was done with it by then, and it went to the salvage yard. All due to a clogged cat. Just FYI. I always suggest replacing them if there is any question.

Now to your last question. You CAN bypass them. I honestly don't know how much the computer cares on these. Some cars will run funky with no cats unless you can program the computer to not care anymore, and adjust trims accordingly. Old school logic tells us cat deletes will always improve performance. But back then cats were nothing really but restrictions on the exhaust. Modern cars can take that back pressure into consideration, I've seen performance LOSS and the computers go crazy about the cat missing. Mostly just an annoying light, and codes about the cats not doing their job, but I hate SES/CEL lights being on. They are your first indication something isn't right, and it's easy to miss something important. Take my Toyota van. I always had a CEL about misfires (cause burnt valves). I stopped checking it, cause it was always on. It finally started throwing codes about an overheating cat, but I never knew till it was to late. If I had read the codes I would have known the cats were bad and replaced them. Might still have that van today. I really liked it.

My personal suggestion is to never do cat deletes on modern cars if your still using the stock computers. Stand alone systems are a whole different story.

[951Dreams]

Read through my "Smoking at start up saga" thread. I was having the same issue as you. I now have zero smoke on startup. Not even a puff. Course my current setup is not EPA compliant. And it caused some already bad oil leaks to go super nova. But if you want to go that route if the CCV doesn't fix it let me know. I can give you some pointers.

#1 thing to do when doing the CCV. Replace the allen head bolts with normal hex heads. Trust me. Don't forget.

[badabing86]

Ok so quick update, CCV was replaced and the smoking has stopped. Took a little bit for the residual stuff to pass but seems to be fine. The main issue I want to look at is the fact I have two codes P0011 and P0021 that are advanced timing. I am hearing like 300 different things it can be, CPS, Timing Chain Tensioner, or that the chain skipped a tooth, lastly timing guides need to be replaced. So any one have some ideas on where to start to look at to see what I can start to eliminate.

[Sundaycruzer]

Ok so quick update, CCV was replaced and the smoking has stopped. Took a little bit for the residual stuff to pass but seems to be fine. The main issue I want to look at is the fact I have two codes P0011 and P0021 that are advanced timing. I am hearing like 300 different things it can be, CPS, Timing Chain Tensioner, or that the chain skipped a tooth, lastly timing guides need to be replaced. So any one have some ideas on where to start to look at to see what I can start to eliminate.

Congratulations!! Your one of the lucky ones (as far as smoking) I think your best option for those codes would be to replace or clean your vanos solenoid filters. You will need the socket but it was recommended to me when I had similar codes also replace tensioner.

[badabing86]

Yeah I saw some come out and was like nooooo. Then remembered that it would have some left to clear out. Ran it for a bit no smoke, turned off then on , no more smoke. Tested this morning No smoke.
Ok so the vanos solenoid filter is what and where ? lol Ill replace the tensioner too since that seems like the cheapest fix and then go from there.

[clarkitect]

I think he means the check valves.

Don't get too excited about the not smoking. Give it several days before you go popping any champagne corks.

[badabing86]

I think he means the check valves.

Don't get too excited about the not smoking. Give it several days before you go popping any champagne corks.

Im not entirely sure what that would consist of, I was able to see what it would take to get the Vanos solenoids out and cleaned with some degreaser. I can certainly do that. But Im guessing take the heads off and check the valves for any damage?

Lol damn well I wont hold my breath just keep my fingers crossed it stays that way.

[clarkitect]

No, check valves located behind vanos solenoids. Pretty simple to change out.

Hopefully you fixed the smoking issue. Time will tell.