As you all have heard i am back in the E36 game after selling mine couple months ago, I have now acquired a 97 328i coupe and am already on the bad side. It was sold as a non running car for a thousand dollars, owner said one day he came to it and it wouldnt start, it would crank but wouldnt fire up, he then goes on and says he didnt overheat the engine saying it and the transmission were good, so me being the benefit of doubt guy i said ok ill tow it to my house to see if its a fuel, air or sensor issue. And soon as i get it home i hook up a compression gauge to the engine to make sure compression wasnt a problem and i find out each cylinder only has about 30-60 psi each. So i dont think i will be buying another car thats not running because chances are the engine isnt any good.
i like my engines running smooth with no sounds at all so i will either have to have it rebuilt or part it out., it does have the m sport conversion (Front n rear bumper, wheels, steering wheel etc) so parting it out wont be a problem but getting screwed is.
I dont see any oil or coolant anywhere in the engine so im not real sure what happened to engine, ill pull intake manifold out to see if any valves got bent maybe it hydro-locked.
But am wanting to know if this is something i should put mone$_86.JPGy into to have another engine put in or just part out? really like how it looks now but dont know if i want to have to replace the engine.
Looks like you bought a very clean 328 that in not running for very little money.
Is it a five speed? Sounds like a money-shift - bent valves.
Pull the head and go from there.
Whole engines are available for well under $1000, plus a $1000 for installation.
You then have a $6000 car for $3000. If not sell it whole, looks to be too solid of a car to part it out.
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WHOAAAAAAAAA
IF the engine has been sitting and the oil is no longer on the rings a compression reading can be just as you described. Put 1-2 ounces down the spark plug hole and run the test again.
NO, 1/2 teaspoon of oil. Oil control rings are not compression rings!!!!!!!!
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Next time take battery, jump leads and tester with you.
Be clear, is the oil in the sump and the coolant in the cooling system, If you don't see oil or coolant anywhere in the engine that's a worry.
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
I agree with the others, the previous owner probably tried to get it started 100 times, fuel washed the rings. You could have a dead fuel pump, clogged filter, bad relay, cam sensor, big vacuum leak (make a smoke tester).
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Change the oil and filter before starting it up.
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1/2tsp of oil won't get its way down the funnel, that's not going to be enough.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
1/2 Has worked form me for 40 years, pour better.
Bad fuel pump - no bore wash,
Bad relay - likely no bore wash,
Bad cam sensor - maybe, maybe not.
Last edited by E36328Coupe; 11-16-2018 at 02:48 PM.
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
Also you would have zero compression if you had bent valves from a money shift.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Which is exactly the point in logical diagnosis
Compression test
If low, add oil, if compression then ok it points to rings, piston / bore
If not OK it points to above rings.
Eliminate too much guessing before pulling things to pieces at which point you can no longer test them
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
Weren't you just trying to screw someone by selling a car with poorly repaired valve guides? Or weren't you the guy who was joking about how you got away with insurance fraud?
Damn bro, you are a mess.
Why did you change your FB?
Even with a bad motor, the car is worth more than what you paid for in parts unless its rusty.
$250 for ZF trans
$300 for m3 aero
$100 for hood
$100-300 for diff if its LSD
$150-250 for interior if is in good shape
$50-100 for headlights
$150 for trunk lid
$150 for scrap metal
I can go on... but if it's a truly clean coupe shell its worth money. You didn't get screwed on a $1000 car purchase lol. Buy a new motor for $250 and swap it in if its bad.
1998 318i m52 swap 3.38 lsd, 1995 540i/6 speed (SOLD), 1993 325i, 1999 328is m-sport, 1996 328i GT35
Who else?
the OP.
If it was anyone else, I would quote their response.
Really dont appreciate you stalking me. never sold a car with any valve guide problems and yes you could consider it a insurance fraud but when i lost so much money on a car that was wrecked n wasnt my fault they deserve it.
think i know who you are, hi arthur nice to see you on my thread
Last edited by zohaibrose; 11-18-2018 at 05:18 AM.
can hear fuel pump whine when i turn the key so i dont think its that, well before i put money into any sensors or a smoke test i wanted to know if engine was good, and by the compression test results they are not doing too well, even cranked the engine to see if cylinders were flooded w fuel and didnt see anything come out
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the battery wasnt dead so i could crank it before i bought it but it had full oil in the dipstick and the coolant level was fine, so im not sure at this point, EDIT: just pulled intake manifold and the valves do not look bent at all, in fact they are rather clean, still not sure of the engine damage, assuming its a blown head gasket because of the low compression or maybe it got hydro locked.
does have really cool dinan muffler tho.
am wanting to get the car back on the road so am looking for a used m52 to put in. i could part it out but it just looks too good to do that
Last edited by zohaibrose; 11-18-2018 at 05:26 AM.
If you have 30 to 60 lbs of compression there are several possibilities. (You didnt say held compression or if it leaked down if you had that tester) Dry or washed cylinders, or stuck rings seated in the pistons from one of the other 2 reasons.
But theres also the possibility of dry valve stems seals, and miss timed camshaft or vanos. And then theres a possibility you didnt do the compression test right with a pulled fuel pump relay or fuse, or have the throttle held open, or crank the engine enough times, or a well seated plug adapter.
Literally every sensor on the e36 is testable with readings on a somewhat cheap digielectrical meter with or without 12v. Its not impossible for you to search through this site and find every single sinch of whats wrong with the car without it starting or reading codes.
For $1000 it is on the line of a worthy project. Personally I never buy for more than $800. $600 for a non running car. But I know what I'm getting into for the most part. They say you can part it out, but realistically if you dont have the time or know how to fix it, you wont have it to part it out or deal with people that do know how enough to make any money. Best bet is to find someone that does know and still in mechanic practice and ask alot of questions and get them involved and maybe butter them up for help.
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Valves, not valve stem seals.
You need to listen to these guys or you're going to waste a lot of time and money.
You need to do a "wet" compression test. They've described how to do it - pour some oil down the plug holes and test it again. If you pulled the valve cover, you can make sure there's oil on all the valve stem seals, too.
You're getting ahead of yourself here.
Again.
Failing valve stem seals don't impact cylinder pressure. They can allow oil to be sucked into the cylinder during intake but play no part in cylinder pressure when the valves are closed. Even if the valves were completely open, positive pressure would follow the path of less resistance through the manifold. Use a couple of ounces of oil in each cylinder, the Pistons are on an angle and a little extra will help, if you are concerned about hydrolocking the engine, just turn it over with the plugs out to wet the walls down prior to checking compression. I have had luck in the past in freeing up stuck rings by soaking the cylinder with seafoam but these engines do not tend to get carboned up rings like the m54 experience.
I agree with everyone else to slow down and verify the basics in diagnosing your problem.
I did write at the end there. "Valves not Valve stem seals.."
And you held the throttle open? The icv route through the intake with the throttle closed will severely drop the compression results.
Either way, if it holds cylinder pressure at all its not bent valves. It's either rings, head gasket, each cylinders head has a crack in it_ (damn near impossible), the timeing is off, or you didnt do the compression test right. At this piont if you did know a bit about it, you would have snuffed up the $50 for the head gasket and popped it off to see whats up. Inspected for cracks, and made a judgment call. Worse case as you said you will still part it out and make money off the other stuff.
Best case scenario, bad head gasket, you set the timing and know everythings peachy. Cost, $50 and 4 or 5 hours of your time.
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I just realised your quote is oil pan and oil chain delete. .... Why.
Yes you are right i should have done a wet compression test instead of rushing through. will now
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feel like it wont be just a head gasket, more then likely cracked head, so have to find a good machine shop. and my quote is that because people keep saying weight reduction on every little thing they remove off their car, one guy said i removed my secondary air pump to reduce weight, and another said it just because he removed a cupholder from his car, mad annoying
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