I have the Haynes manual and heater core doesn't look as bad as I thought. Haven't found a YouTube video on it yet. Figured it was like my 89 SHO with a significant dash disassemble and 10+ hours work. I see the blower motor is accessed through the engine bay. Again, doesn't appear to be too bad but until you do one you don't know for sure. Any tips would be appreciated.
Working on the 325 reminds me how much I LOVED my old Jeep Wrangler. A bus ate it.
budget the whole weekend for heater core. For the blower motor put some tape to cover holes as you'll likely drop various screws, etc.
Blower motor can be done from the engine side by removing a few things. Sucks, but I've done 2. Heater core requires the entire dash to be pulled.
What is your issue? I doubt both are bad at the same time........
Thanks folks. I haven't started to DX anything yet. The blower stopped couple days ago. I know it could be FSR but it has been occasionally squealing for years.
The heater core may or may not have a leak. I have had a coolant leak for years. Haven't found a drop but you can smell it mildly when you put the heat on. Don't smell it in the summer and it doesn't lose as much coolant which isn't much. A few oz every 100 miles or so during heating season. Causes air in the system and needs to be burped every 300 miles or so. It may be one of the connections on or near the core. The core can wait till spring. But if it was necessary to take apart the same stuff to get to the blower I thought I fix the core while there. I found a YouTube video on the core for a 97. It looked like it comes out from under the dash through the drivers side. Wasn't sure how close the 97 core placement was to the 94 convertible placement.
Blower is the same for all years. access through the engine compartment. Squeaky blowers can be a simple lube spray or leave piece removal
likely a microscopic crack somewhere around the heater core. If not too bad leave it alone. But if your windshield fogs up consistently and you smell coolant and it's old, replace it.
Thanks guys. I'll try to DX it this weekend and see what is next. Core can wait till spring if it takes the dash removal. Old BMW plastic and cold don't work well together.
Just a follow-up. It was warm enough to DX it while DXing my washer pump. Got lucky and only the 30 amp fuse. The good news is I'm prepared to do the heater core in the spring when it is warmer and now my errand runner is warm enough. Thanks all.
It's honestly not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. I did mine twice because when I put everything back together, the new one was leaking (bad seal on the o-ring). It is a HUGE help if you remove the top of the heater box to better access the bolts that go into the core itself. After I did that, it was easy peasy.
Here is a E36 heater core removal DIY from webarchive, better download it before it disappears http://web.archive.org/web/200806161...ic/ic80136.htm
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks but that heater core removal is for a coupe. I have the convertible. Good thing too. That is far more work than the convertible.
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