Here is my problem with my e39 540:
The vapor barriers on both of my rear doors are leaking.
The car is kept outside, I do not have access to a garage.
I'm heading out of town (actually cross country) for about 10 days.
I do not have time to fix the barriers (for the 3rd and 4th times) or send the car to a shop before I leave.
What is the best way to temporarily seal off the back doors so I don't come back to puddles in my rear footwells?
I'm guessing some combination of plastic and tape, but I'm not sure which tape is safe for the paint job while also able to stay put when wet.
As just a suggestion, I would think about basically getting a huge plastic cover & just cover the whole car while you're gone.
Like a car cover, but plastic so that water just runs down the side & doesn't get into the rear window areas.
I think places like Harbor Freight (if you have them in your area) would have something like that.
I would think that would keep the water out while you're gone.
<== Steptronic Sealbeach740
2000 740i sport: 74k Green/Tan chrome MPars, clear corners, quad brake lights, AIC hi-beams, Hoen fogs, 16x9 screen, MKIV, TFT LCD screen in back, license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, iPod audio/video (CDC/iPod audio switching, iPod video on 16x9 screen), Basslink, gauge rings, ///M pedals, switched steptronic +/- shifting mode, E46 paddle shifter steering wheel, Dinan engine & tranny software upgrade, DDEs controlled via Euro fog light switch, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, windows up/sunroof close via remote.
2003 540i sport: 81k, Sterling grey/grey, MKIV Nav, PDC & CWP - Added license plate backup camera with "on demand" switch, paddle shift steering wheel, windows up/sunroof close via remote, Akebono's, painted calipers with "BMW" lettering, quad brake lights, iPod audio via AUX mode/video via 16x9 screen, BMW TV tuner, ///M pedals & gauge rings.
Hull preservation tape or shrink wrap tape. It's used in the marine industry. You could tape over the bottom window trim molding, and up onto the window. The important part is taping over the rubber "seal" in the window trim - the "wiper" that actually touches the glass. FYI... if you haven't replaced those, do that. Over time they don't seal very well against the glass and let a lot more water down into the door. 'Course, a big sheet of plastic that you buy from any Home Store will do the job, as well. Heck, might as well go all the way and get a nice blue tarp for it! I think those tarps come in camo colors, as well - at least that way the neighbors won't notice it........
Make sure your door drains are clear... although to do that right means taking the door card off (which only takes a few minutes)... and once you're there, might as well fix it right. Clean the surface REAL well, finish with alcohol. Use new butyl tape or an adhesive sealant like BoatLife Life Calk.
Last edited by DennisG01; 11-13-2018 at 07:55 PM.
Actually the problem is you did NOT FIX the barriers 3 or 4 times. When done right they last forever. Having to do it 3-4 times means it was never actually done well/properly once.
Agree w/ the blue tarp suggestion. Its not sexy, but it'll work. Get a big enough one so you can run bungies and/or rope under the car to hold it on. The blue tarps aren't fully waterproof for very long but even as long as it keeps sheeting water from running down the windows in the back that should be fine.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
What's the right way to fix the barriers? I used 3M window weld rope to do mine recently, but I'm wondering if there's a better way to do it.
The right way is well described in a billion threads already. What I can’t understand is the fact that you started a thread asking how to cover up a car while you are away. Not a rocket scientist? No worries, you don’t need to be one. Get a tarp, sure that’ll work, but I’ve seen tarps scuff the crap out of the paint on a windy day. Just get some big jumbo construction garbage bags, open the rear doors, place the bag over the window, covering the belt molding, fold the overlap inside as you shut the doors, done. Now go fly a rocket or something.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
If using the butyl rope then it is suggested heat be applied to the adhesive along with pressure applied, via a wallpaper roller or similar tool, to the vapor barrier itself.
Or use a more permanent adhesive that will destroy the vapor barrier when you need to go in to replace the window regulator.
As Snotty mentioned, the vapor barrier reseal is easy IF you following all the right instructions.
Clean everything FIRST then install using the butyl 3M tape
Use a New Vapor barrier/sound deadener if the old one is torn, abused etc.
Short cuts alway create additional issues later.
Reheating or re using the 25 year old stuff works 20% of the time.
Doing it wrong 2X does not equal good.
For the original question on what to use, whatever is water proof. Find covered garage to park in for example
Last edited by StephenVA; 11-15-2018 at 01:26 PM.
Duck tape of course, or even better, aluminum tape, LOL.
2001 540 M-Sport (cdn), ST X (KW) coilovers, H&R 15mm spacers, Eibach anti roll bars (28mm/18mm), Beastpower rear antiroll bar brackets, M5 rear chassis reinforcements (traction rods), Strong Strut front upper strut bar, Dinan Stage 1 software, factory M-Audio subs, Bavsound speaker upgrade, Bluebus bluetooth integration, Stop Tech SS brake lines, ATE coated brake rotors, ATE ceramic brake pads.
I hope this isn't too late.
A wide, say 2", strip of masking tape applied across the window's lower seal strip will keep the car dry for a few days. Top edge of the tape well up on the glass and the bottom edge over onto the paint. Easy to apply, easy to remove and no risk of damaging the paint.
A tip when you get to the repair.
A few years ago I went through a patch of 3 vapour barrier leaks on the same door in 6 months. I finally figured out that I'd been setting the barrier panel pulled "tight" so its seal edge was well back on the door's flange for maximum overlap. Sort of like pulling it tight like a drum. Then the intrusion of the door pocket was touching/pressing on the barrier panel and pulling on the the butyl sealing bead causing it to release over time. I then set the barrier panel inward from "full out" by around 1/2", which still left enough overlap for the the butyl bead to have a good grip on both barrier and the door frame. With the little bit of extra slack in the barrier panel giving some room for the pocket I've had no more leaks after several years.
Regards
RDL
I'm not sure what type of masking tape RDL is thinking about. Regular masking tape, in my experience, is a poor choice. It leaves dried out, messy residue that can be difficult to remove, especially if exposed to the sun. Blue painters tape shouldn't leave residue but it doesn't work well in wet situations, exactly the time you want protection.
E24: moved to a new caretaker
I wouldn't use masking tape, either. RDL... have you actually used masking tape outside for any extended period of time, or are you just suggesting it because it won't hurt the paint? Once the sun gets on it, it will leave a gooey mess that eventually becomes dried out and a real pain to remove (duct tape has similar results). Blue painters tape will work for a short period of time when wet, but still not ideal. The tape I mentioned above will work perfectly.
Last edited by DennisG01; 11-16-2018 at 06:07 PM.
Yes, I have used automotive grade masking tape for exactly this.
Wet performance wasn't a problem since the tape wasn't stressed - all it had to do was stay in place and shed water.
I had it on for about a week. I'm pretty sure it was springtime, so no blistering sun. Besides, the OP is in Philadelphia and it's November so I doubt he has to worry about that. And if it came to that, I'd rather deal with a bit of a mess left by masking tape than removing seats and pulling up rear carpets to get them dried out.
Regards
RDL
Bookmarks