I'm documenting my work on here. This is my 3rd M car now. I had the 98 E36 Estoril Blue M3, 4-door, 5-speed. I sold that when I got a job that included a vehicle reimbursement and high travel to get a 09 E90 Jerez Black M3 DCT.
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I now work downtown, commute on a bicycle or motorcycle, so I decided to get a fun little cruiser. I have a Tacoma and two sportbike, so I needed to cut cost. This is where I welcome the 98 M Roadster!
Overall, it's decent condition for a 20 year old car. Hardtop leaks, coolant leaks, stereo isn't hooked up and very little history. No clear coat failure, fresh shocks, bushings, and mounts.
Today, I changed the oil and front pads. The last owner installed Hawk HP+ for street use and I could not stand the noise! I also went ahead and changed out the brake light and AC/recirculation switch.
This car is certainly a little bit more challenging to work with than the E36 due to limited space.
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I'm looking to get rid of the Hawk HP+ pads. Excellent life, excellent feel, kills my eardrums at street pace. Message me if you want them for $30.
I also have been trying to reset my brake wear indicator. The 15-90 seconds of leaving the key in position 2 with the doors open isn't working out for me.
Upcoming:
Coolant leak chase
Hardtop leaks chase
Hardtop interior sag fix
Hardtop color matched
Recondition interior leather
Last edited by Boogieman065; 11-19-2018 at 03:01 AM.
did you check to see if both pad sensors were good? One front, one rear
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Oof look at the smoke!
Good buy, I think it will be a fun project.
ECS sells the rear brake wear sensor for <$10, but you may be able to re-use the ones from your old pads.
I think you can also loop the contacts which should trick the signal.
edit: you said front pads. those sensors are also <$10
I also had HP+ pads on my Coupe for a while and eventually got sick of the noise. I swapped them out for Stoptech Sport, which have been great.
Last edited by scenturion; 11-15-2018 at 12:17 PM.
Good call! I did not check the rears. Thank you.
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Today I fixed the passenger seatbelt guide and restained all the leather/vinyl.
For the guide, I did enlarge the holes a little so that I got better access. I did not want to remove the seat just for this. I ended up using a combination of provided internal lock washers, screws, and zip ties to create a durable spacer! It's a little stretched out now. I believe with some use/heat, it'll look good as new.
Last edited by Boogieman065; 11-27-2018 at 02:00 AM.
$240 for a new handle on the Z3 M. I decided to risk it and try to attach it myself. I used a self drilling screw (drill a pilot hole first!), Washer, and a rubber spacer to dampen the shocks. It feels sturdy now! It does not attach to the metal door however.
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Got the rear bumper and the hardtop painted. The rear had a large scruff and the top was spray painted black. For $350, this was a pretty good to stage prep/paint job!
I'm working with a mobile audio installer to get the stereo up and running. It works now, but the quality is poor and there is frequency whine that responds to the RPM under load.
I will order the radiator, expansion tank, upper hose, and lower hose tomorrow. I'm looking to do that job and the transmission/differential flush all at the same time.
Im also interested in the white/red tails, clear side marker lights for aesthetic reasons.
Last edited by Boogieman065; 11-27-2018 at 12:57 AM.
Curious Boogieman, how many miles on the M and what sportbikes are you riding?
I ride a 15 RC390 and a 10 RSV4 Factory.
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The M Roadster has 140,000 and I don't intend to baby it. I put lots of miles on my vehicles.
Very nice. I swapped my Yamaha FZ-10 with a riding buddy’s Tuono V4 for a day and was super impressed. The crossplane 4 sounds sweet, but the V4 is the best. Great stuff!
Last edited by Tigershark48; 11-27-2018 at 09:22 AM.
Cool! I'm a really big fan of the crossplane. If I go to an inline 4, it'll be the R1!
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Right side of the trunk
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Left side of the trunk
Soo.... How bad is this? This isn't really a DIY kinda thing
It's not good.
Look at the subframe/trunk floor/differential mount failure thread on the first page of the forum. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-mount-failure
I don't have an M. Mine is just a pokey 1.9L, but I think you will need to deal with it.
Its pretty bad, the trunkfloor looks to actually be pulled down somewhat in the 2nd pic and spotweld is pulled through
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Definitely a candidate for some RF reinforcing love!!
Working on getting the subframe/trunk reinforced...
I'm baffled by something else. It must be the wiring. My trunk open/close/light sensor thinks that the trunk is open. My light is left on and I can't activate the alarm (thinks the trunk is left open)
I jumped the wires at the sensor plug, took the plug apart and cleaned it, yet it's still doing the same.Screenshot_20181228-203242_Facebook.jpg
As you see in the pic, copper wiring connecting the two sensor wires yet the light remains on. Where else can I attack this? I was messing with my dome light. Could it be a fuse/dome light affecting it?
Last edited by Boogieman065; 12-28-2018 at 11:42 PM.
I believe it's a N/O circuit not N/C. Closed circuit would cause light to turn on. You can check status of all door,hood,trunk & radio switches with INPA
I'd pull the rubber grommet back and check the wiring where it goes from the decklid into the chassis. All that bending over time tends to break the wires.
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
Nice! Welcome to the Z3 club! Happy to see this car is getting the care it deserves. Kind of funny I can tell that’s the chinese spot across from McKinley - I lived around the neighborhood and always went there for coffee after running. Small world...
I’m also interested in the HP+ pads! Will be nice track spares. Send me a DM if you want to sell them still and I can meet you around downtown/midtown!
I was in Sacramento (Carmichael) visiting the folks for Christmas. Still can't believe the traffic around the Arden Fair mall. Crazy. Anyway, welcome!
Tony
"You can't sign away negligence."
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