1983 BMW 320iA K-Jet to Carb conversion - Help

[BndkStarKillr]

Hi, all. I'm new here.

* Edited - cut out my boring story of how i got to where I am, which likely is turning off anyone to replying. It involves two separate 1983 320i's (an automatic and a 5-speed manual), a rebuilt 2.0L, some heartbreak, and a slow recovery with a bit more recent motivation. Ask if you want to. *

So as of today, this is what I have:

1983 BMW 320iA
-5 speed manual transmission swap w/ appropriate diff.
-Rebuilt 2.0L with a 1.8L head using the vacuum advance distributor.
-2002 (year unknown) manifold w/ a "Weber" 34 DGEC carburetor.
-Carter Fuel Pump mounted in the engine bay wired to a line going to fuel pump relay that is only hot when the car is running/cranking over (this might not be correct, maybe you all can advise)
-fuel injectors replaced with rubber plugs.
-the distributor vacuum line is run to a ported vacuum line on the carb. I've got the three ports in the intake manifold plugged, one on two of the manifold pipes, and one right under the carburetor where it mounts to the manifold.
-the electric choke is tied in to an always hot line under, what i believe, is where the old lambda relay was supposed to go (this is probably not correct, maybe you all can advise)
-all previous stock accumulator, pumps, etc. have been removed to the best of my knowledge.

I will get pictures up soon. Probably tomorrow.

I'm having trouble getting it tuned just right, and I'm hoping you all can guide me a bit. I've done some searching, but haven't found anyone using this exact set up.

This is what I've done to "tune" it.

-Set the timing, by turning distributor clockwise until it stumbles, counter-clockwise until it stumbles, then set somewhere in the middle where I find the fastest smoothest idle. Warm up engine. Shut off engine.
-Set the idle speed screw so that it just touches the throttle lever, then screw in 1 turn.
-Set the mixture screw all the way in, then back out 2 turns.
-Start engine.
-Adjust mixture screw for fastest/smoothest idle
-Adjust idle-speed screw
-Drive
-Re-adjust

It seems like after I drive for a while, when I come to a stop, the smooth idle that I had achieved is now gone, then I readjust to achieve the good idle, drive some more, stop, and it's rough low idle again.
While driving, it seems like it is having trouble going into the next circuit or hits a flat spot when trying to accelerate hard.

I've sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake and can't get the idle to be affected, so I'm assuming no vacuum leaks there.

My next move was to check the jets and make sure nothing is dirty or clogged, and order a rebuild kit for the carb.

So, am I on the right track. Do you all see anything wrong with my wiring of the electric fuel pump and the auto choke? The vacuum advance line location? The tuning steps? The timing?

Eventually, I'm going to upgrade to a newer carburetor that is actually supported still, maybe the 32/36 dgev or a 38 dges. Apparently there's question to whether this model carb is legit or not. I suppose it was manufactured while the Spanish Weber factory was shut-down back in early 2000's. Some people say that Solex made the 34 DGEC and put a weber sticker on it. I don't know the history, or really care. It should still work. It almost does currently.

Thanks in advance for any info you guys may have.

Cheers!

[autox320]

From what I gather the 34 is still progressive ie at about 40% throttle opening the second barrel opens. Should be able to get it right and not have to get a 32/36 which is basically the same carb but smaller primary barrel.

Quick search shows this carb on lots of jeep forums as with the popular ones. Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere maybe. I'd be sure to check the ports on the carb. If like the 38/38 there is sometimes a port at the base (could just be a hole) used for fuel tank breather fumes to be ingested. Double check the maybe the choke operation and make sure it's open when hot etc and not able to have the flaps close.

Another is the float level itself I'd make sure it's spot on to rule that out as well.

reference thread here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...9#post30076219

[BndkStarKillr]

I’ve ordered an intake manifold gasket set cheap; have to wait till Friday to order the rebuild kit ($50) - includes inlet seal, gaskets, accelerator pump, enrichment diaphragm, needle and seat.

There is a port on the base of the carb. It seems to only pull vacuum when the throttle is opened. I wasn’t sure whether I should put the vacuum advance line here or on the manifold, pulling vacuum constantly and activating the vacuum advance on idle. Could this be the port for breather fumes?

When I pull the carb to rebuild and install the intake gasket set, I’ll take a look at the float level, although I’m not sure of the proper setting. I can’t find any adjustment or spec manual. I was thinking to leave it alone, bc it shouldn’t have changed?

My dad had this carb on a M10 engine for a project he was working on and said that it ran fine. Maybe it sat too long dry and needs some refreshening? Maybe some junk from the previous fuel system got in there? We are running some of the original fuel line. I’ve since put an inline fuel filter after these older lines and before the carb.

I’ve checked the choke function. It is functioning ie it closes until the coil warms up and the flap opens at that point. It does seem to “warm up” a little too fast. But I was assuming that might be bc of the missing choke pull out adjustment screw.

Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate it.