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Thread: To buy or not buy? ( 528i 2015, CPO)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    san francisco
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    accord

    To buy or not buy? ( 528i 2015, CPO)

    Hi

    I am on the east coast, I've been considering a BMW 528i CPO model our local dealership has listed recently.
    I have the Kia Cadenza CPO on my mind as well, which is 10k $ less than the BMW but has all the features BMW has, at least thats what it seemed like.
    First of all, I am not a badge person, I wouldn't buy an Audi to get the Audi badge or likewise. If a normal car brand makes a car that checks all the requirements I have, I'd buy it.

    I like the BMW for the low road noise, excellent audio system, nice interiors and decent ride quality. I am concerned about the reliability of BMW which I feel is not on Toyota/Honda levels. Also I came to know that these bimmers don't last longer than some 5 or 6 years without giving major problems and burning your pockets. I am wondering what your experience with these cars is, in warranty and after warranty, the true cost of maintaining these cars, and the depreciation. Have you run into any major problems with these cars 4 or 5 years down the road? What about the service and oil change costs?

    Note: The Kia Cadenza has impressed me a ton, but the downsides to it I feel are Kia levels of reliability, and somewhat steep depreciation curve. Also, if you guys have any experience comparing these two, I would love to hear it.

    Thanks a lot!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Lakewood Ny
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    2008 Z4
    I recently sold a 2008 BMW 528xi. We bought it in 2009 with 9000 miles, and sold it a couple weeks ago with 203,000 miles on it. So I'm very familiar with the E60 vintage 528 and it's problems. We replaced it with a 2016 535xi. Here are my thoughts:

    - The car is engineered to a higher level than a Toyota or Honda. Over the years I owned a couple of those. For instance, the BMW water pump is electrically driven, not driven by a belt from the front of the motor. The BMW can control the speed of the pump depending on conditions. If the engine is started cold, the water pump may not pump at all until the coolant is warm. Saves energy / better fuel mileage. The pump will speed up / slow down as needed while driving. More precise temperature control / better fuel mileage. The Honda/Toyota pump spins based on motor speed whether it needs to or not. Worse fuel mileage. If you get in your car after parking it and want to sit & stay warm, the BMW will turn on the water pump (without the engine running) and will circulate the warm engine coolant to blow warm air into the cab until the residual heat is gone from the engine block. So, another level of engineering vs the Honda / Toyota. But to replace the electric water is $550 for the part and a few hour labor for the BMW tech at $160 / hour. The Honda / Toyota belt driven pump is $100(?) and an hour labor by the tech at ? per hour. I'm sure much less than the BMW tech. Most of the BMW systems are similarly engineered, so a much more expensive and complex car.

    - The e60 era 528 was known for water pump failures at ~100,000 miles. Little or no warning, you're stuck beside the road. Due to my fear based on what I read here and other places, I replaced the water pump myself at 120,000 miles. Nothing wrong with it, but I didn't want to be stranded. Still going strong at 203,000 miles.

    - BMW has what I consider a very high initial depreciation. For example, the 2016 535xi we just bought was $65,000 new. I paid less than half of that for the 2 year old car with 34,000 miles. It still has the remainder of the new car 4 year 50,000 mile warranty, and is CPO so after the new car warranty runs out the 1 year unlimited miles CPO warranty kicks in.

    - I agree with you that the reliability is not on Toyota/Honda levels. Some of that I believe is due to the technology used in the BMWs, IE the electric water pump.

    - The most expensive failure I had in 203,000 miles was the transfer case at 120,000(?) miles $4500

    - Most of the problems with the BMW was trying to keep the oils in the car and not on my garage floor. Valve cover gasket replaced 4 times, twice at the dealer $700 each, twice by me for $65 each. Mechatronics transmission seal leak repaired by the dealer twice, $800 each. Power steering hose leak $350 at the dealer. Rear main engine seal leak, $1400 at the dealer.

    - The engine and transmission performed perfectly for the 203,000 miles. Although many people on these forums will call you foolish for following the BMW maintenance guidelines, I did. I changed the engine oil when the car told me to, usually at 15,000 to 20,000 miles. At 203,000 mile, the engine ran great and only used one quart of oil between changes. BMW got this one right.

    - I had the transmission fluid changed once at the dealer at about 120,000 miles. Just because. BMW says the transmission fluid is lifetime. I was chicken to push it.

    - The front & rear differential fluids were never changed, BMW says they are lifetime fluids. They were right.

    - You asked about BMW service costs. I just got an OEM BMW oil change kit delivered to my house yesterday. It cost $68 for 7 quarts of full synthetic oil and an oil filter. Not sure what genuine Honda / Toyota 5 quarts of oil and filter cost. I'd guess at least $50 I think I paid to have the oil changed on the car one time, and it was about $85 at the dealer. So not a whole lot more expensive than a genuine Honda / Toyota oil change at the dealer, but the BMW change will last 15,000 to 20,000 miles. I'm sure the Honda / Toyota doesn't go that long between changes.

    - One thing I will tell you. If you buy a BMW, it gets in your blood. You start talking about BMWs, you love to drive your BMW, you look for reasons to drive your BMW. I don't know what it is, maybe they put some drug in the cabin air filter. You hate the expensive problems, but you're hooked on the car. Love/hate relationship.

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