E38 EWS-DME Issue INPA help

**jimoreno** · 11-09-2018, 11:05 AM

I'm having an issue with an E38 that I bought about 6 weeks ago. After I replaced the timing chain guides I drove the car for 2 days and took it to the shop to get new tires installed. After they drove it on the lift when they were done and lowered the car, it wouldn't start. Had it towed home (thanks AAA!) and 2 days later realized that the key I had (it had broken rubber buttons, old style key, built date 6/99) no longer had the EWS transponder inside. So I ordered a new remote key but the car wouldn't start. After getting INPA with a good cable I managed to get into the DME and EWS modules but I can't do an EWS Sync as I was thinking that by losing the chip the rolling codes had come out of sync.
Well, I can't do a sync because I get an "ERROR_ECU_REJECTED" message from the EWS module:

And when I go into the DME module I get an error when I try to do a sync:

But after digging deeper into the DME inputs, I see that EWS is off:

I confirmed the start on input (new ignition switch) and the transmission selector switch input.

I actually ordered another key (without remote) to confirm if the 1st key was bad but as you can see, it confirms that its receiving something from the key:

Hoping someone here can shed some light as I closed on my new hous this past Tuesday and have to move in 2 weeks!

**purplecty** · 11-09-2018, 11:09 AM

You got new keys from the dealer?

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**jimoreno** · 11-09-2018, 11:54 AM

Yes sir, coded to my car VIN

**328 Power 04** · 11-09-2018, 06:24 PM

Any chance that this car has a different EWS module in it as part of someone's less inspired way to change a dme?

The INPA sync is between the ews module and dme, not ews to key. A new dealer key is ordered from the "unused" spare key slots, and it syncs automatically when you use it for the first time. You wouldn't have to do anything, just stick key in and go.

If the key is not matching any of the key data in the current ews module, you would get this rejected code, yes.

More digging is needed in your case, as it seems there is some history in this car.

**purplecty** · 11-09-2018, 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by 328 Power 04

Any chance that this car has a different EWS module in it as part of someone's less inspired way to change a dme?

The INPA sync is between the ews module and dme, not ews to key. A new dealer key is ordered from the "unused" spare key slots, and it syncs automatically when you use it for the first time. You wouldn't have to do anything, just stick key in and go.

If the key is not matching any of the key data in the current ews module, you would get this rejected code, yes.

More digging is needed in your case, as it seems there is some history in this car.

I was going to run with this idea as well... Check your DME physically and see if the VIN number on the sticker matches the cars VIN number. Try this and see if it cranks...

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**jimoreno** · 11-09-2018, 06:55 PM

Both the DME and the EWS were in the car when I bought it and the car ran until the transponder was lost. I'll double check but I just did the test with the jumper on the EWS wires and at least it cranked!

**jimoreno** · 11-09-2018, 07:10 PM

Ok, DME has the car VIN sticker but not the EWS. Was it supposed to have one?

**jimoreno** · 11-09-2018, 07:15 PM

Inside the EWS looks ok (at least nothing looks burnt or overheated):

**purplecty** · 11-09-2018, 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by jimoreno

Ok, DME has the car VIN sticker but not the EWS. Was it supposed to have one?

No the EWS will not have it on there... I am assuming you may have a bad EWS...

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**purplecty** · 11-09-2018, 11:15 PM

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ode-**Solved**

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**MKBUSC** · 11-16-2018, 08:49 PM

Wondering if this issue was solved? I have a 2001 e38, and after I got my 'new' 2014 640i, the e38 was parked for a couple months without being driven. Charged battery, but would not crank. Voltage is fine.

Have determined that there is the issue with synchronizing of the EWS/DME. I tried INPA, but although it connects, it doesn't have the necessary 'routines' to re-synch, apparently.

Just got DIS, and now I am trying to find out if the ADS cable (that I used successfully with IPA) will work with DIS. it is the 20-pin 'PacMan' one, for under the hood connection.

Notes that I have seen say that the ADS cable must be used with XP, (which is what my INPA was on) but I have DIS on a Win 7 machine.

Both keys work fine, and other diagnosis I've done points to the EWS/DME synchronization, but am looking for someone with experience that has done this.

Thanks!!!!

**jimoreno** · 11-16-2018, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by purplecty

No the EWS will not have it on there... I am assuming you may have a bad EWS...

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And you were right! Thanks for helping read the old unit and re-program a used one (Can't buy them anymore!)

**purplecty** · 11-16-2018, 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by jimoreno

And you were right! Thanks for helping read the old unit and re-program a used one (Can't buy them anymore!)

No problem! My pleasure! Glad it worked out!

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**purplecty** · 11-16-2018, 09:03 PM

Originally Posted by MKBUSC

Wondering if this issue was solved? I have a 2001 e38, and after I got my 'new' 2014 640i, the e38 was parked for a couple months without being driven. Charged battery, but would not crank. Voltage is fine.

Have determined that there is the issue with synchronizing of the EWS/DME. I tried INPA, but although it connects, it doesn't have the necessary 'routines' to re-synch, apparently.

Just got DIS, and now I am trying to find out if the ADS cable (that I used successfully with IPA) will work with DIS. it is the 20-pin 'PacMan' one, for under the hood connection.

Notes that I have seen say that the ADS cable must be used with XP, (which is what my INPA was on) but I have DIS on a Win 7 machine.

Both keys work fine, and other diagnosis I've done points to the EWS/DME synchronization, but am looking for someone with experience that has done this.

Thanks!!!!

Can you read the DME and EWS errors?

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**jimoreno** · 11-16-2018, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by MKBUSC

Wondering if this issue was solved? I have a 2001 e38, and after I got my 'new' 2014 640i, the e38 was parked for a couple months without being driven. Charged battery, but would not crank. Voltage is fine.

Have determined that there is the issue with synchronizing of the EWS/DME. I tried INPA, but although it connects, it doesn't have the necessary 'routines' to re-synch, apparently.

Just got DIS, and now I am trying to find out if the ADS cable (that I used successfully with IPA) will work with DIS. it is the 20-pin 'PacMan' one, for under the hood connection.

Notes that I have seen say that the ADS cable must be used with XP, (which is what my INPA was on) but I have DIS on a Win 7 machine.

Both keys work fine, and other diagnosis I've done points to the EWS/DME synchronization, but am looking for someone with experience that has done this.

Thanks!!!!

With INPA, you need to go to "older models" (Shift + F9) and then pick E38 and then engine, DME (it's 7.2). Once in the DME menu there is an option to re-sync (Shift + F6) and then pick F2.
And my issue was resolved with a replacement EWS programmed by member PurpleCty!

**justinlucking** · 11-18-2018, 07:35 AM

Originally Posted by purplecty

I was going to run with this idea as well... Check your DME physically and see if the VIN number on the sticker matches the cars VIN number. Try this and see if it cranks...

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what does this do. I am also having issues with my E39.
I would like someone to explain why someone would shove a cable into those places and try cranking the car.

**justinlucking** · 11-18-2018, 07:41 AM

Yes my Vin matches the ECM/DME. Every so often the key refuses to start the car/ yesturday had x100 attempts to start it and only 1 time it worked. Moved the car out of the way and left it. Going through ALL cables in the car as I see partial melted wirings and cut wiriings. Whats more I have no found quiet a number of scotch locked wires added to the GM3 unit wiring, glove box fuse wiring and tail light wiring. All in hidden areas. I have only 1 key and yes those buttons are also broken. Transponder is their but failing to start. Looking for a valid downloadable DIS software. Got INPA but not DIS or progman.

**purplecty** · 11-18-2018, 09:15 AM

Originally Posted by justinlucking

what does this do. I am also having issues with my E39.
I would like someone to explain why someone would shove a cable into those places and try cranking the car.

This will provide 12v to the starter and if this cranks the car, it's most likely a key / ews problem...

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**justinlucking** · 11-18-2018, 06:43 PM

So in theory, If it cranks its the transponder issue. At this moment, I cant tell if its the bleeding starter that is faulty as I can hear 1 click and that is it. I just cant tell if the EWS is causing this issue or the dam starter.... Without this security I could tell but i have no fricking clue at all. Its a new car to me and well I wished i never got it.

**purplecty** · 11-18-2018, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by justinlucking

So in theory, If it cranks its the transponder issue. At this moment, I cant tell if its the bleeding starter that is faulty as I can hear 1 click and that is it. I just cant tell if the EWS is causing this issue or the dam starter.... Without this security I could tell but i have no fricking clue at all. Its a new car to me and well I wished i never got it.

If it clicks its not the ews or transponder...

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**justinlucking** · 11-18-2018, 06:59 PM

Noo. It does not "click" 's it is just 1 click. it is very faint. You can barely hear it... I had come across this post and figured what you were going to say but need reassurance about what the intension was. You have confirmed what I had thought but tried to say it was not the case. I will try this out i need piece of mind.

- - - Updated - - -

i would be almost easier if I had not read this error in memory. power to restart (EWS) involvement. does this mean anything to you at all.? Key 0 invalid code key 0 ID incorrect.

**purplecty** · 11-18-2018, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by justinlucking

Noo. It does not "click" 's it is just 1 click. it is very faint. You can barely hear it... I had come across this post and figured what you were going to say but need reassurance about what the intension was. You have confirmed what I had thought but tried to say it was not the case. I will try this out i need piece of mind.

- - - Updated - - -

i would be almost easier if I had not read this error in memory. power to restart (EWS) involvement. does this mean anything to you at all.? Key 0 invalid code key 0 ID incorrect.

Can you clear it? That error indicates a bad ews, key or transponder. Try and jump the ews and see what happens. If it cranks endlessly you know the problem is the ews and or key and not the starter...

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**justinlucking** · 11-18-2018, 07:04 PM

ok trying now

**justinlucking** · 11-19-2018, 04:03 AM

Okay if I read the picture the correctly. I need to bridge the 2 major wires that leads to and from the EWS box. If this is correct. both of my wires are black. Well, i shoved a wire in hard on both wire endings and tried to crank the car. Nothing happend except a metalic clunk. Head out of the car and turn the key. sure enough a clunk could be heard. I think I have confirmed both for me and my angry wife over this car that the Starter is TOAST... anyone agree. But please no lets write that as the full problem. I still have a list of error codes about 5 poages long and 3-5 of them relate to he EWS... God dam this.

**justinlucking** · 11-19-2018, 06:27 AM

Okay. further testing to confirm some thoughts. To bridge those wires, should the voltage be as low as 0.8 volts at the turn of the key and without the bridge present.? This is the readings i get without the bridge. IE as per the photo above.