Finally a running transmission! (am I paranoid?)

[MD540iT]

Well I finally rebuilt MY transmission after installing a bad transmission, then having a Retarded monkey sell/install another transmission (and start dissasembling MY original transmission)
So, I rebuilt my original trans, which had 212k on it, and was running just fine until the A drum fractured. (got the beefed up A drum, and the Trans-go "fix" valve. and replaced the F piston) Filled it with Castrol Trans-max FULLY synthetic (confirmed with castrol it was LT-41711whatever rated)
So it took almost 4 months to get it back on the road.
I had been driving a borrowed Scion (manual), which got totalled (not my fault) then my friends 2006 civic (auto).

Reason I mention that is that my car felt noticeably different, and im not sure how much that affected what I was feeling.

I have to admit I was quite gun shy after the first trans I put in lasted 10 seconds, and the second, clearly didn't function properly after i handed the guy cash and started to drive away.

So I gently test drove it around the block, just waiting for it to malfunction or get the "trans failsafe warning"

have been kind of easy on the pedal, only driving it in the neighborhood and to work (3.5mi) so far so good, maybe.

the down shift initially from 2-1 was noticeable, and seemed a little late, maybe?? like just before I came to a stop at about 10-5mph? that was the first 10mi i drove, I thought it felt better today.

And I thought the car felt a little slow off the line (but again I wasn't really trying,barely got more than 1/3 throttle and was trying to ease on it) Id say the car felt a little "heavy" (which Is why I mentioned driving the civic and scion)
But maybe its the engine? took several tries to get it started and was running a bit rough at first, might have some vac leaks.
Also the battery was dead for a while.



SO, if I did it all right and it works correctly how soon would it be clear?

[WBAD530i]

I would keep an eye out for any leaks from the bellhousing/torque converter area.

The true test will be getting it up to highway speeds and really working through the gears. I thought I repaired mine 100% until I got it on the highway and the pressure built up and blew out all the fluid. I'd say you're doing the right thing with breaking it in a little, but you'll need to slowly get into the higher gears to know for sure. Also maintaining highway speeds for a good 15-30 minutes with the trans up to operating temp.

My issues were mainly because I failed to properly "coach" the torque converter into place where it was flush.

And yes - you are paranoid, but its totally justified haha. I know exactly how you feel. I ended up going the manual swap route because I was so sick of the auto issues after many repairs.

[Mike WW]

I guess it is a bit early, but my complements and congratulations! Most are absolutely terrified of digging into a slushbox which usually isn't as bad as it is made out to be.

[djb2]

My issues were mainly because I failed to properly "coach" the torque converter into place where it was flush.

You might have done it correctly, only to have to slide out during installation.

I replaced an auto from under the car. I had carefully seated the torque converter on the oil pump drive tangs before the assembly went under the car. While maneuvering the transmission onto the jack the torque converter slid forward. Luckily I noticed it. I pushed the torque converter back in while awkwardly under the car, and it felt as if I had re-seated it. A minute later, in a fit of paranoia, I pulled the transmission back off to double check. This time it slid back substantially more -- it hadn't actually engaged.

I now appreciate the value of the factory service tool that hold the torque converter into place, and isn't to be removed until after the transmission is bolted onto the engine.

[Replenish]

You might have done it correctly, only to have to slide out during installation.

I replaced an auto from under the car. I had carefully seated the torque converter on the oil pump drive tangs before the assembly went under the car. While maneuvering the transmission onto the jack the torque converter slid forward. Luckily I noticed it. I pushed the torque converter back in while awkwardly under the car, and it felt as if I had re-seated it. A minute later, in a fit of paranoia, I pulled the transmission back off to double check. This time it slid back substantially more -- it hadn't actually engaged.

I now appreciate the value of the factory service tool that hold the torque converter into place, and isn't to be removed until after the transmission is bolted onto the engine.

Tell me about it.

[MD540iT]

yes, I was worried about that. Im wondering if thats what happenend to the first used trans I put it, since after it stopped moving after 10 second of Drive, I tried to add fluid(since I only put it about 7qt) went to open the fill port with it running, and fluid just came pouring out!

But this one I was aware of that, I actually installed the TQ after the trans was in the tunnel. made sure it seated, but I did jiggle the trans around abit, however it was still aligned when I bolted it all up.



I have about 50 mi on it now, got on the highway for a few minutes. Does that sound like enough to be sure its all good?

also read this about the "adaptive" learning. maybe thats why it was feeling a little sluggish?
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post11981852

[MD540iT]

its starting to feel more like I remember, but Im still holding my breath

[MD540iT]

Ahhhhhh noooooooooo!!!!!!!
Crying.....

Fluid leaking.... after dsc went off in the snow, trans failsafe

[Santaclaus4]

Where is it leaking from? Maybe it's not that bad.

[MD540iT]

Not sure at the moment, what would the dsc going on cause?

I had to leave out 3 bolts on the pan (not next to each other) but I doubt that would have blown out.

[MD540iT]

Well i haven't been able to get under ut but from first glance it seems to be leaking from the bellhousing.

[djb2]

Most are absolutely terrified of digging into a slushbox which usually isn't as bad as it is made out to be.

Few shops work on transmissions, and even fewer will work on ZF transmissions. A rebuilt ZF is typically much more expensive than a rebuilt domestic-application GM transmission ($4K vs $1K). Which is surprising considering how easy they are to work on, and how few special tools are required. Yes, the rebuild kit is much expensive, but that's only $100-$300 extra.

For the ZF 5HP19 you only need high quality T-27 and T-40 drivers to disassemble into major units. The clutch packs can be disassembled with a few dollars worth of PVC drain fittings and something rigged up to apply moderate pressure. Measuring free play and adjusting it is comparatively complicated, but no more complicated than other transmissions.