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Thread: Front lip and door handle trim question

  1. #1
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    Front lip and door handle trim question

    Two in one post:

    First question is I'm wondering if you guys know where/how I can replace the rubber around the handles of my M3. They are dry and cracking.



    Second question, I'm wanting to get a more aggressive looking front lip (currently it's stock). I'm looking at the Rieger vs the Max Velocity. Can I get your opinion on those? Which looks better in your opinion, which is the better product, ease of installation, etc etc. Any advice on those is appreciated.

    -R

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  2. #2
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    You have to get behind it. There is a tab on the back of the handle housing inside the door that you push forwards and back to release and lock the exterior trim in place. Not easy to get do to the window, brackets etc.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66 6 View Post
    You have to get behind it. There is a tab on the back of the handle housing inside the door that you push forwards and back to release and lock the exterior trim in place. Not easy to get do to the window, brackets etc.
    Yes and no. Yes, you have to push the lock forward though a hold in the door (jamb side, above the latch). No, you don't have to mess with the window or brackets. Once you push the lock forward to unlock the trim from the door, the trim (plastic and rubber) pulls out away from the door from the top. The bottom has hinges on each side. Remove the trim/rubber. Remove the rubber gasket. Install new gasket on trim, then place trim back on it's hinges and push it into the door. Hold it in place while you pull the lock back into place.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Two in one post:

    First question is I'm wondering if you guys know where/how I can replace the rubber around the handles of my M3. They are dry and cracking.

    Second question, I'm wanting to get a more aggressive looking front lip (currently it's stock). I'm looking at the Rieger vs the Max Velocity. Can I get your opinion on those? Which looks better in your opinion, which is the better product, ease of installation, etc etc. Any advice on those is appreciated.

    -R

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    As for the lips, it's personal preference. I personally like the sock lip, GT lip, or ACS lip.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    Yes and no. Yes, you have to push the lock forward though a hold in the door (jamb side, above the latch). No, you don't have to mess with the window or brackets. Once you push the lock forward to unlock the trim from the door, the trim (plastic and rubber) pulls out away from the door from the top. The bottom has hinges on each side. Remove the trim/rubber. Remove the rubber gasket. Install new gasket on trim, then place trim back on it's hinges and push it into the door. Hold it in place while you pull the lock back into place.



    As for the lips, it's personal preference. I personally like the sock lip, GT lip, or ACS lip.
    Sounds like a pain. Definitely appreciate the advice.

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  5. #5
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    A lot easier than you think. All you need is a paint can lid opener. That's literally it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Sounds like a pain. Definitely appreciate the advice.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    A lot easier than you think. All you need is a paint can lid opener. That's literally it.

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    Cool buddy. Thank you. Off hand do you know the best place to pick them up?

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  7. #7
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    In person? The dealer. Online? FCPEuro
    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Cool buddy. Thank you. Off hand do you know the best place to pick them up?

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    In person? The dealer. Online? FCPEuro

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    I know, my lazy ass should just Google right? Haha.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Cool buddy. Thank you. Off hand do you know the best place to pick them up?

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    Home depot. $0.46 each.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Can-...-HDL/206794609
    Alpine 318ic FTMFW!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    The door handle gaskets you cannot get from the dealer, he will sell you the cover incl. the gasket as a set, door handle gaskets you can get from me https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...E32-E34-E36-Z3
    PM sent

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  11. #11
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    The door handle gaskets you cannot get from the dealer, he will sell you the cover incl. the gasket as a set, door handle gaskets you can get from me, 2-door sets, 4-door sets, fit on E36, Z3, E34 and E32 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...E32-E34-E36-Z3

    Edit: shipment is on the way
    Last edited by shogun; 11-09-2018 at 08:06 AM. Reason: update
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    The door handle gaskets you cannot get from the dealer, he will sell you the cover incl. the gasket as a set, door handle gaskets you can get from me, 2-door sets, 4-door sets, fit on E36, Z3, E34 and E32 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...E32-E34-E36-Z3

    Edit: shipment is on the way
    Got them in the mail yesterday. Thank you!

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockDots View Post
    Yes and no. Yes, you have to push the lock forward though a hold in the door (jamb side, above the latch). No, you don't have to mess with the window or brackets. Once you push the lock forward to unlock the trim from the door, the trim (plastic and rubber) pulls out away from the door from the top. The bottom has hinges on each side. Remove the trim/rubber. Remove the rubber gasket. Install new gasket on trim, then place trim back on it's hinges and push it into the door. Hold it in place while you pull the lock back into place.



    As for the lips, it's personal preference. I personally like the sock lip, GT lip, or ACS lip.
    So that's what that hole is for!
    Smart man. Makes sense.

  14. #14
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    Ok just double checking again with you guys that I can replace the door handle gasket through this hole and without removing the inside door panel? I've seen people say you have to do it both ways. Just whichever way is correct and obviously the least invasive on my vehicle.



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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Ok just double checking again with you guys that I can replace the door handle gasket through this hole and without removing the inside door panel? I've seen people say you have to do it both ways. Just whichever way is correct and obviously the least invasive on my vehicle.



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    Watch a couple videos to see how it works. Once you get the hang of it, it takes about 30 seconds. Don't take your for panels off. That's like using your sunroof to get in the car.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    Watch a couple videos to see how it works. Once you get the hang of it, it takes about 30 seconds. Don't take your for panels off. That's like using your sunroof to get in the car.
    Hahaha. Got it, thanks.

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    Watch a couple videos to see how it works. Once you get the hang of it, it takes about 30 seconds. Don't take your for panels off. That's like using your sunroof to get in the car.
    .....I don't got it. Super frustrating. I am pushing forward on the latch/tab in the door and the handle loosens a bit but definitely does not come forward. Don't want to force anything. Any advice?

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  18. #18
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    Ok I do got it! Realize I was pushing on the correct thing but only to a certain point and after that my tool was resting against something on the inside of the do, I just couldn't see it. Moved it a bit and got both of them. Thanks everyone.



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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster20 View Post
    Ok I do got it! Realize I was pushing on the correct thing but only to a certain point and after that my tool was resting against something on the inside of the do, I just couldn't see it. Moved it a bit and got both of them. Thanks everyone.

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    LOL - yeah, it's only simple once you get it!

    It DOES help if you've had reason to pull it all apart and see how it works before you have to work that little clip blindly, but it's pretty easy once you get it!

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

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