I read the DIY about pressing out the old ones and pressing in the new ones. I did that but getting the pressed in bushing onto the control arm....yeah....
So far I've tried lubricating the arm and twisting the bushing on it. It's a new Lemforder control arm and the bushing that came with the set. I can't even get it on the shaft to level much less all the way in.
Anyone got some tips on that?
Either the proper FLCABushing tool, a homemade variant or a dead blow hammer and a deep socket/dead blow hammer…and dish soap
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 11-05-2018 at 11:06 PM.
What did you use to lubricate it? I think I have used WD-40 and possibly armor all, otherwise dish soap/water
I used my 13 year old son and a floor jack. But any helper will do. Set the lollipop on top of the floor jack, sitting on a pvc pipe or anything that will allow the control arm to poke through. I pushed the control arm into the bushing with all my strength and weight while my son pumped up the jack. Easy peasy. Unfortunately I had already wasted a lot of time with other methods of trying to get it on. I used dish soap as a lubricant.
Last edited by sienayr; 11-05-2018 at 06:12 PM.
Put the bushings in the freezer overnight, or at least for a few hours. A piece of threaded rod, some fender washers and nuts worked for me.
2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual
i think they are talking about putting the lollipop bushing onto the actual control arm, not the one into the lollipop.
No e30s again.
I had the best luck connecting the control arm to the car first at the inner/outer ball joints, then lubricating the stub and rubber bushing, twisting it round until the bushing is indexed
I put the control arm in a vice. Lathered on dish soap or equivelant on the shaft of the control arm and in hole of the bushing. the first time around I could barely get it over the end. I pulled it off and the 2nd attemp with a twisting and pushing motion it slid over the control arm shaft. Done. works everytime since.
The problem is I broke the ball socket in my right arm and can no longer put all my weight against something. So I just took it to a Russian shop that repairs BMW and they got a guy that looks like a bear in a jumpsuit. He chucked it up in a 6 inch vise and when examining the control arm said "Is usually smooth not have ridges"
He then pushed so hard the bench started moving and they went right on.
$20 later and I'm ready to go
ha ha ha, thats a funny story but at least it was cheap
No e30s again.
This should really be done with the CA already bolted to the subframe since you have very little time to get the car on the ground so the CAB can find it's neutral state on the CA before your lube dries. The bushing sets to the CA and will not rotate once it's dry so if it dries out of place it becomes preloaded and will self destruct long before you'd like it to.
just sayin
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Thanks for the input guys. When I had the shop put these on I took the originals and laid them side by side. It was so close to perfect it didn't matter
If you are concerned that they may be preloaded take a map torch and VERY gently warm the CA (not the bushing). This will relax it enough for it to reset....and DO NOT melt the damn thing !!
87 Zinno Cabrio 98k Barn Find. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=268987
87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner
Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info
New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ot-Seat-Shocks
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