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Thread: 1990 BMW E30 325i - Drivers Side Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Seminole, FL, USA
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    1990 BMW 325i Sedan

    1990 BMW E30 325i - Drivers Side Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

    I have a 1990 BMW E30 325i. While driving, the car has a slight pull to the drivers side. Also, when I turn left, there is a "thud" sound that occurs at one point (turning right there are no sounds).

    I put the car up on jack stands, and found that the drivers side outer tie rod is loose when I move the tire. The looseness is at the outer tie rod where it bolts to the left front tire assembly.

    I think all I need to replace is the outer tie rod and not the whole inner and outer tie rod assembly.

    Can someone advise me on how to replace just the outer tie rod?

    Thank you in advance for your help ...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    corpus christi, texas
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    No e30s, again :(
    it unscrews. after you do it though, you will have to get an alignment. you can measure how far from the center of the ball joint to the end of the sleeve before you unscrew it so you can get the alignment back to being close

    - - - Updated - - -

    you will have to get a tool to remove the tie rod from the part it pushes through into the steering knuckle. they are at the local parts place for cheap though
    No e30s again.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    KS
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    e24e30e36e39e90
    You may be better off just getting the whole tie rod, if the tie rod end has been on there for a while, it's a gamble as to whether you'll be able to get it off. Or, make sure you can get it off before ordering parts, if you can afford to have the car out of commission while you wait.

    I bought two tie rod ends when I did a suspension refresh; passenger side came out pretty easily. Driver's side was completely seized. I got a few twists by applying heat but then nothing more. I eventually rounded off the protrusions that allow you to counter-hold the tie rod end with a wrench, that's when I knew I was done for. So then I had to order the full tie rod and wait for it to come. My car spent most of it's life in GA so it isn't a rust belt car with excessive corrosion.
    Last edited by sienayr; 11-02-2018 at 03:43 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Seminole, FL, USA
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    Update ... Yesterday morning first thing, I got my new Tie Rod End at Autozone. I picked up a loaner Tie Rod End Remover while I was there.

    I put the drivers side up on a jack stand and went to work. Things went smoothly through "popping" the old tie rod out of the wheel assembly. At that point I measured the distance from the ball joint's center to the edge of the flange that the tie rod screws into. I then moved on to loosen the retaining clamp on the threaded area and unscrewing the old tie rod end out of the inner tie rod.

    This did not go smoothly. I rigged up support for the tie rod so that I could attach vice grips to the inner tie rod where it has "flatted" areas. I then used a vice grip on the old tie rod end's flatted area to unscrew the old tie rod end. The inner vice grip was positioned so that it would be restrained by the wheel mount assembly when I turned the tie rod. It did not budge no matter how I tried. I soaked it multiple times with Blaster Penetrating Catalyst and let it sit, but it did not help.

    At this point I decided to try heat. Using a propane torch, I heated the area where the tie rod end threads in. I also had to adjust my setup to get maximum torque on the vice grip. After a couple of tries on heating, I felt it move (screeched as it did ... had to apply a LOT of pressure). I had to heat it a few more times to get the tie rod to continue moving. Eventually, I could turn the tie rod a half turn at a time with a lot of torque pressure. The turning remained hard until I got to the final 1/4" and then it got a little easier. It took me about 30 minutes to twist it out after I got it started.

    Once out, I was concerned that the new one would not go in well. I decided to grease up the old one and the threaded area that it goes into, and I found that I could thread it back in without the "hard torque" it took to get it out. I could get it almost all the way in with just my hands turning it.

    From here, things went smoothly again ... I screwed the new one to match the distance I had measured on the old one. I then tightened the retaining clamp, reinstalled the wheel and dismounted the car from the jack stand. Overall, this took over 4 hours. If unscrewing hadn't been so difficult, the time would have been shorter, but since I succeeded, I'm not worried about the time.

    I took the car out for a 5 -10 mile test drive. No shimmy, vibration or hard pulling and the noise I had when I turned sharp left was gone.

    I have an appointment today to get the front end aligned. I'll provide an update after that to report on overall performance with front end aligned. So far, I am pleased with the results.

  5. #5
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    No e30s, again :(
    Sounds good
    No e30s again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Toronto
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    e30s
    did you get a locking shim to secure the inner tie rod?

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