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Thread: intermittently won't crank to start

  1. #1
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    intermittently won't crank to start

    Hi folks,


    sometimes I get into the car and try to start, it won't crank at all


    but then if I use the remote on the key to lock and unlock the car and try again, it will crank and start normally.


    sometimes I have to repeat this cycle a few times before it will start.


    any ideas? thanks!

  2. #2
    Pelican Parts's Avatar
    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    Hello - I would suggest pulling the car's codes before spending any money on parts. This should give you a good idea as to where the issue is coming from. Hope this helps and best of luck!
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pelican Parts View Post
    Hello - I would suggest pulling the car's codes before spending any money on parts. This should give you a good idea as to where the issue is coming from. Hope this helps and best of luck!

    I did. no codes came. that is why I'm so surprised


    I used bmw EDIABS

  4. #4
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    Battery in key getting old/crusty and not sending adequate signal until thumbed a couple times? Remove and clean if possible.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

  5. #5
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    Could be the starter failing. Sometimes they fail intermittently at first.

  6. #6
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    Try for codes when it doesn't crank. But generally no crank is a bad battery or bad connection(s) at the battery or the battery ground. First load test the battery and if it's good then remove, clean, and reinstall cables at the battery..I use a separate jump starter battery pack to keep the system energized and memories not erased while I do things like this. After you've done this at the battery find where the (negative) ground cable attaches to ground, remove, clean, reattach. Do the same with the positive cable, generally at the starter.
    If all else fails you're probably looking at a new starter or removing yours and replacing the starter brushes. BTW...at 140K miles it's generally a good idea to replace alternator slip ring brushes. BMW makes a nice kit with new brushes and crimp connectors for the pigtails. I used a BMW kit years ago to replace the brushes on a Bosch alternator on a Saab (the brushes are integral to the voltage regulator; some newer high power alternators will require a new voltage regulator since the brushes are spot welded to the regulator terminals and can't be serviced separately).

  7. #7
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    From experience, I would say plan on a starter job, but also plan on replacing the hard hoses under the manifold as well as some vacuum lines.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by smithpatrick View Post
    From experience, I would say plan on a starter job, but also plan on replacing the hard hoses under the manifold as well as some vacuum lines.
    I agree about the starter, mine died out of nowhere, but the starter can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. Get some e-torx wrenches, preferably ratcheting.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  9. #9
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    Op, the key fob has 2 separate and distinct electronic systems. The system that remotely locks/unlocks the car uses the battery in the fob. The other system is the anti-theft system. It communicates with the car’s anti-theft system (EWS) via the ring antenna that surrounds the ignition switch. That ring antenna also provides the fob’s Anti-theft system with the electrical energy it needs to work.

    What do the gauge cluster lights do when you try to start the engine but the starter doesn’t crank? Do you hear clicking? Do the gauge cluster lights dim? How old is the car’s battery? Do you have a second key? The anti-theft circuit in the fob could be going bad. It happens.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Op, the key fob has 2 separate and distinct electronic systems. The system that remotely locks/unlocks the car uses the battery in the fob. The other system is the anti-theft system. It communicates with the car’s anti-theft system (EWS) via the ring antenna that surrounds the ignition switch. That ring antenna also provides the fob’s Anti-theft system with the electrical energy it needs to work.

    What do the gauge cluster lights do when you try to start the engine but the starter doesn’t crank? Do you hear clicking? Do the gauge cluster lights dim? How old is the car’s battery? Do you have a second key? The anti-theft circuit in the fob could be going bad. It happens.
    no clicking and no dimming of the lights.

    as soon as I pull the other key it starts. So with one key starts always, but with the other key starts only sometimes (90% times) but when it doesn't wanna start I have to keep trying it for 30 minutes (unless I have the other key with me)

  11. #11
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    Sounds like it is a key issue. Time to swap keys or save up and buy a new key.
    1999 2.8L Z3 Roadster,
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    There is only one thing more pleasurable than working on a Z3, that's driving it top down on a fine day.

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