New to me - High Mileage E39/530i/5 Spd Manual/221K Miles

[mnm2008]

I ended up with a 2003 High Mileage E39/530i/5 Spd Manual/221K Miles
PO tells me that this is his Dad’s car since new and he inherited it and put up the last 100K Miles in the span of 4 Years.
Mechanically, I see the following issues and the first two I have to do right away.

1. Oil Change
2. Seems to be mis-firing and feel some loss of power, PO says Need a new set of Spark Plugs & Coils
3. ABS/Brake/Service Now and VSC Lights are on - PO says ABS Needs to be Rebuilt
4. Per PO - Coolant and Water Pump were serviced recently,
5. Clutch (Not sure if its original), But seems to make a grinding noise when its down all the way in, But subsequently realized I don’t have to push all the way in for the clutch to engage - So hopefully not an issue.
6. Reverse gearing seems to be a mile to the extreme left and engages properly at a certain spot (Hopefully no issue and I have to just get used to it)

I paid less than $1.5k and intend to learn to DIY Fix (Not very handy, but want to take this opportunity) and this is just a fun car and don’t intend to make it primary.
Any other checks and any other fluid changes that are easy DIY that I should look into?

[mnm2008]

Here are a few picsIMG_1347.jpg


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[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Your clutch is almost done, put that on top of the list.

[edjack]

Good hobby car to keep you out of the bars at night. Kind of like buying a used lawn mower.

#6 is probably bad parts in the shift linkage, esp at that mileage.

Be careful: after you fix it up, you'll throw rocks at your 328i!

[effduration]

I ended up with a 2003 High Mileage E39/530i/5 Spd Manual/221K Miles
PO tells me that this is his Dad’s car since new and he inherited it and put up the last 100K Miles in the span of 4 Years.

1. Per PO - Coolant and Water Pump were serviced recently

Any other checks and any other fluid changes that are easy DIY that I should look into?

How recent was the Coolant and water pump replacement?

[WBAD530i]

That steering wheel looks like it needs to be quarantined, and the condition of it doesn't speak highly of the PO's upkeep.


Otherwise nice find! You are in the right place for learning to DIY and you can pretty much find a thread or youtube video for any project you need to complete. Google is your friend.

[mnm2008]

How recent was the Coolant and water pump replacement?

4 Months Ago & less than 1K Miles since then, But don't see any receipt on Coolant (Is it just Coolant Flush or is there more than coolant flush on a E39?)
Screen Shot 2018-10-28 at 7.57.01 AM.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

That steering wheel looks like it needs to be quarantined, and the condition of it doesn't speak highly of the PO's upkeep.


Otherwise nice find! You are in the right place for learning to DIY and you can pretty much find a thread or youtube video for any project you need to complete. Google is your friend.

Agree, Looking at eBay for some custom cut materials, Will have to get it sewed onto the existing wheel.

[itsbrokeagain]

I'd get a clutch in there, sounds like the throwout bearing is on its final legs.

Other things to address:
-engine mounts and trans mounts (guaranteed collapsed/sagging)
-shifter linkage bushings
-detents in the trans worn (prolly the culprit of the vague shifter)
-maybe do the guibo and check the CSB while you're down there.

The detents can be done when the trans is out of the car.

[effduration]

I am always a little wary of "recent cooling system replacement" shortly before a sale. In a worst case (not saying you have that here) seller attempts to fix an overheat/warped head / head gasket by throwing cooling system parts at a car. When that doesn't fix it, he sells it.

Your receipt shows substantial cooling system work including heater pipes under the manifold which is great.

But since the car has 221k miles, and you are reporting misfires, and since these cars are so susceptible to head damage in an overheat situation of even 30 seconds, I would do a relatively easy/cheap compression test just to rule out any compression problems.
you can do it as an easy DIY with a borrowed compression tester from Autozone. Or you can pay a mechanic less than $100 to do one for you.

If you do it yourself read up on it:

Do it with engine warm,
pull fuel pump fuse (so you don't wash cylinders with gasoline)
pull all coils
do them one at a time - about 6-7 revolutions each one consistent.

[mnm2008]

But since the car has 221k miles, and you are reporting misfires, and since these cars are so susceptible to head damage in an overheat situation of even 30 seconds, I would do a relatively easy/cheap compression test just to rule out any compression problems.
you can do it as an easy DIY with a borrowed compression tester from Autozone. Or you can pay a mechanic less than $100 to do one for you.

If you do it yourself read up on it:

Do it with engine warm,
pull fuel pump fuse (so you don't wash cylinders with gasoline)
pull all coils
do them one at a time - about 6-7 revolutions each one consistent.

Thanks - Thats a good Point.
I did the same this morning and here are my results (Cy1 is the Inner Area of the Engine Bay); Used an OTC Compressor; Planned to do it warm, But took me couple of hrs after the early AM drive before I could get start the compression test with the other things going on. So I would not call it cold, but definitely not warm.
Cyl6 (156psi)
Cyl5 (190psi)
Cyl4 (130psi)
Cyl3 (105psi)
Cyl2 (185psi)
Cyl1 (140psi)

Also changed the Spark Plugs (NGK) and CoilPacks (Ebay); See some splash of fuel on three of them (Cyl 1,4,5) and the Existing Coil Packs & Spark Plugs seem to be Bosch Branded & these Plugs seem to have 4 corners(Bosch), unlike the new ones.
Took for a 10Mile drive(Maxed at 85MPH), Did not see any stalling so far, But after 65MPH experiencing a heavy shake through the steering column - May be that's a different thing/Suspension?
How should I read this? May be need to do another Compression Test to Validate the Numbers - Was counting 7 RevCranking.

[effduration]

Thanks - Thats a good Point.
I did the same this morning and here are my results (Cy1 is the Inner Area of the Engine Bay); Used an OTC Compressor; Planned to do it warm, But took me couple of hrs after the early AM drive before I could get start the compression test with the other things going on. So I would not call it cold, but definitely not warm.
Cyl6 (156psi)
Cyl5 (190psi)
Cyl4 (130psi)
Cyl3 (105psi)
Cyl2 (185psi)
Cyl1 (140psi)

Well if that was your first-ever compression test, I might repeat it to see if you get the same numbers. Ideally for an M54 engine you should expect to see 180-190 Lbs (warm) for each cylinder with less than an 10% variance from maximum - so all like 170-190 lbs per square inch.

The variation you have, if accurate, indicates a bad head gasket and/or warped head or a problem with some of your valves. Cylinder 3 with compression near 100, could easily be causing your misfires.

Your test was probably warm enough, and as long as they are all measured at the same time you should get an accurate read. I might suggest you pull the fuse for the fuel pump (look it up, I think its in the trunk) so you are not washing the cylinder with fuel but this isn't critical.