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Thread: how do you access the top fitting on the steering box?

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by edjack View Post
    In the Olden Days, thin end wrenches were called "tappet wrenches," and used for adjusting valves.

    Those are one thing I've not seen at HFT.
    I think something like their "service wrenches" come close. There are a ton of options for thin wrenches: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=285207

    What I found worked was a pair of small Craftsman RoboGrip adjustable pliers. They're thin and the jaws are always parallel so you get a good grip on the flats of the endlink. Seems like pretty much everyone hates these things but they worked a treat for me on that one specific job.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    ScottieDucati was confounded to find that BMW actually uses 16mm for some stuff, which is an "off-standard" wrench size vs. what you'll find used by many manufacturers - aka they stick to either use 15 or 17... and that's why its not included in a lot of wrench sets...
    I've never had a problem using a 5/8th inch standard socket/wrench in place of a 16mm. They're very very close to the same thing; it's a 13/100ths of a mm difference, or a 0.8% difference.
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Yeah you and I pretty much take the exact opposite philosophy. I view it as "take the opportunity when you need one to buy the set, then you'll have 'em next time". Sure maybe you'll never use the odd sizes but, never know tho... ScottieDucati was confounded to find that BMW actually uses 16mm for some stuff, which is an "off-standard" wrench size vs. what you'll find used by many manufacturers - aka they stick to either use 15 or 17... and that's why its not included in a lot of wrench sets... So I'd rather have the set and be 'set' than be lookin' around in mid-job going "crap I got an X-1 size and an X+1 size but not X size... gotta hit the store..."
    16mm is the ANSI/ISO standard bolt head size for an M10 fastener. 17mm is the DIN standard size. Stuff like 9mm and 15mm are not specified by ANSI, ISO, DIN, or JIS standards.

  4. #29
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    Okay it turns out it's still leaking...so the seals are probably shot. Maybe. Tried tightening it up a but and the bolt won't budge. Tried loosening it and also won't budge. Of course I don't have a lot of leverage in there so I went and found a crows foot that would work (turned out mine had hooks on the ends of the tines that kept it from engaging, but a set with straight tines works fine). But I can't get it seated properly...if I try to use a ratchet down by the bolt I don't have enough clearance and I don't have a straight shot to use extensions and a swivel from up top.

    This is a seriously frustrating problem.

  5. #30
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    It was suggested that unbolting the engine mount and lifting the motor slightly on that side would clear some room...is that a viable option?
    Last edited by makenzie71; 11-07-2018 at 06:25 PM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by makenzie71 View Post
    It was suggested that unbolting the engine mount and lifting the motor slightly on that side would clear some room...is that a viable option?
    It sure is, jack it up.
    The washer is a one time use washer, are you using a new one?
    Once it's crushed it will leak again unless you can get it back in the EXACT position is was in.

  7. #32
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    I never had it off...I really don't know the history of this situation, I got the car with it leaking so bad that it would empty the system in less then 20 miles.

    It's just the one bolt going down from the top, correct? Or do I need to do both of them? Should I also need to unbolt the mount from the chassis if all I'm doing is just trying to get some room to change this washer?

  8. #33
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    Now that I think about it you need to replace both washers on the banjo bolt, one on the top and the one on the bottom of the banjo bolt. Grease will hold the washers in place while your trying to thread the bolt in.
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_0927

    The top bolt on the motor mount is a PITA to get at, you'll need a few long extensions.
    You could take the 2 nits off of the bottom of the motor mount, that would be much easier.
    When you jack it up make sure the fan doesn't hit the shroud. Check for any other hoses and wires that might get pulled on.

  9. #34
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    Yeah I want to replace both the washers...which wouldn't be a problem if I could just get a couple inches of room in there. I just need need to get a real wrench on the thing

  10. #35
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    Undid the motor mount on driver’s side (surprise! Mounts are shot) and got the bolt out. Was super easy once the motor was up a couple inches. Now I can’t get it back...the line has it in a bind. Nothing easy I suppose.

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  12. #37
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    Didn't I say it was going to be a PITA job?
    If you have the other end of the line disconnected it should be easier to get the banjo bolt in.

  13. #38
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    I was simply confirming the prediction.

    I’m undoing the other end tomorrow morning to take another go at it. Fixing everything on this car going to takes at 20 minute intervals.

  14. #39
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    F I N A L L Y

    I had to disconnect both hoses from the pump to get it. I took the opportunity to remove the one in question to inspect it and it had, indeed, taken a hit sometime. I think with it's proximity to the engine, when the engine mounts being completely gone (the motor just lifts right up out of the them on both sides), at some point the motor got acquainted with the line and things were not the same after. I gave it a slight tweak to the get the angle a little more favorable and it bolted right up. New washers all around, no leaks.

    NEXT:

    Getting the exhaust patched up. Also getting new mounts but that's really not too big a project. I'm probably just going to have a shop do the exhaust...I'm a little tired of crawling under it for a while.

  15. #40
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    Neat. Move the car back so I can lay down some kitty litter (I basically drained the whole PS system on the driveway...oops) and I find this waiting for me
    Last edited by makenzie71; 11-11-2018 at 10:32 PM.

  16. #41
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  17. #42
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    I don't get it. If you click the address bar and just press enter it goes straight to the website. If you just copy the link (https://i.imgur.com/YZPoeKZ.jpg) to your address bar it goes. But if you click the link from this forum, and only this forum, you get "access denied"...

  18. #43
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    If I open it up in a new tab I see a green something, antifreeze?

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by makenzie71 View Post
    I don't get it. If you click the address bar and just press enter it goes straight to the website. If you just copy the link (https://i.imgur.com/YZPoeKZ.jpg) to your address bar it goes. But if you click the link from this forum, and only this forum, you get "access denied"...
    Ahhh. They have an "anti-hotlinking" feature activated. If they see the link comes from a forum the block you. Probably you have to pay more for that 'feature'... See the whole photobucket disaster.
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  20. #45
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    That’s the thing...it’s just this forum. My other forums imgur works just fine. You can even put the image in tags and it works. Not here. Might be because of the way BF changes the link, don’t know, oh well.

    But yeah it’s antifreeze. Just a couple drops from the right side of the engine, toward the rear. Thing has nearly 300k on it, though...probably about time for a cooling system refresh.

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