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Thread: Can I plug the OSV to CCVV pipe and just run a new vent to the valve cover?

  1. #1
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    Can I plug the OSV to CCVV pipe and just run a new vent to the valve cover?

    2001 740i M-Sport. Typical smoke at startup, occasional P1159 P1161, etc symptoms of failed PCV system. On other vehicles its not uncommon to vent the crankcase to atmosphere when deleting a PCV system. On the BMWs, it appears most people are using catch cans in line with the original failed PCV system. Do you really need a catch can? Or can I just plug the aluminum feed pipe and run a new passive vent to the valve cover? Do these motors create a lot of positive pressure or do they need negative pressure for some reason?

  2. #2
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    As any engine, they create positive pressure as a result of blow-by and heat. The main escape route for these gases is through the OSV assembly, which
    coalesces oil from the vapor. Vacuum regulated CCV allows intake vacuum to distribute these gases into the intake.
    Catch cans have been fitted to a lot of BMW 6 cylinders due to the design of that system, but can be messy if not attended to. Venting the vapors to atmosphere(along with the oil mist) will be a bigger mess, along with odors in the passenger compartment.

    If the CCV has failed, it's not a big job to replace, part can be had for 30-90 bucks depending on soured and maker. Lots of vids for replacement tips.
    IMHO, best to retain the original design and intention. Replace the CCV. If the OSV assembly is plugged up, that's an easy fix also. But most likely you have
    a CCV diaphragm ruptured.

  3. #3
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    Replacing the CCV is a common repair on these cars. A little tricky, but not too hard. I recommend replacing the Allen head bolts with normal hex head bolts when you do the swap.

    Replacing the OSV is NOT easy on the M62 and M62TU. It's way down inside the front of the engine, behind the lower timing chain cover. If it get's clogged, it serves the opposite function. Instead of separating oil from the blow-by gasses it will add oil to them. If that happens you will still get oil in the intake, smoking, and probably another blown CCV. (The rubber diaphram inside it will split sooner.)

    Some folks have said the OSV can be unclogged by dropping the oil pan and using grass trimmer string, or wire, to clean out the drain tube and OSV. I didn't try that. Instead I drilled a hole in the driver side cam cover (where there was a closed fitting), and routed the blow-by gasses to an external OSV that was made for an X5 with the same engine. I routed the oil back to the sump by splicing it in to the low-pressure drain tube from the oil filter.

    Check around. Others here have done that too. I can share pictures if you'd like.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    Replacing the CCV is a common repair on these cars. A little tricky, but not too hard. I recommend replacing the Allen head bolts with normal hex head bolts when you do the swap.

    Replacing the OSV is NOT easy on the M62 and M62TU. It's way down inside the front of the engine, behind the lower timing chain cover. If it get's clogged, it serves the opposite function. Instead of separating oil from the blow-by gasses it will add oil to them. If that happens you will still get oil in the intake, smoking, and probably another blown CCV. (The rubber diaphram inside it will split sooner.)

    Some folks have said the OSV can be unclogged by dropping the oil pan and using grass trimmer string, or wire, to clean out the drain tube and OSV. I didn't try that. Instead I drilled a hole in the driver side cam cover (where there was a closed fitting), and routed the blow-by gasses to an external OSV that was made for an X5 with the same engine. I routed the oil back to the sump by splicing it in to the low-pressure drain tube from the oil filter.

    Check around. Others here have done that too. I can share pictures if you'd like.
    I should have mentioned its my OSV that is bad. I have already replaced the PCV once, and while it seemingly helped it did not cure the problem.

    The X5 external OSV mod is definitely of interest to me. Id like to see what you did.

  5. #5
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    "I should have mentioned its my OSV that is bad. I have already replaced the PCV "

    Now that's a horse of a different color... So John's option, or pull the lower pan and clean yours out,
    or go full plug and pull the front covers and replace or clean it completely.

    There's posts on cleaning with kerosene/wire. Not a bad idea to pull the lower pan also, might find indications
    of further needed attention down there.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    Not a bad idea to pull the lower pan also, might find indications
    of further needed attention down there.
    Not a "bad idea"?? Tell that to my checkbook
    But seriously, a lot of things can be fixed while there, including of course the timing chain guide.

  7. #7
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    To be clear:

    Pulling the oil pan isn't a big deal. Pulling the lowering timing chain cover definitely is.

    A third option is to modify the system to use an external OSV or catch can, as I did (works great). Not simple but effective.

    If I were doing this again I'd probably try removing the oil pan and cleaning out the OSV and drain tube.

    It's also worth wondering how the OSV and 1/4" drain tube got plugged up in the first place. I drove an '97 540i for 230,000 miles and the OSV never clogged. I used the 15W-40 oil (Rotella, made for diesel engines) that BMW specified for that engine before they went to synthetic. They also increased the recommended oil change interval when they made that change (and offered free maintenance for a while following purchase). So, did that OSV stay clear because of all the detergents in the diesel oil, or because I changed it consistently and frequently? Hard to know.

    Now I have an '02 540i, which I got at 150,000 miles with a clogged OSV. I put Castrol 5W-40 synthetic in it AND I change the oil every 3-4,000 miles. No more extended change intervals for that car.

  8. #8
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    I have a pretty strong feeling that the OSV is broken at the neck. We get very cold weather here in Nebraska. With my luck, I would pull the pan and blow it out with air just to find that the problem persists. The design is flawed and I think an external catch can is the way to go. Not going to open the motor for any reason if I can avoid it. I will probably have to remove the intake manifold to get to that metal OSV connecting tube, then pull it out of there and replace it with a new line to a catch can. I will prob run the catch can back to the PCV to eliminate fumes. Basically creating an external OSV.
    2001 740i M-Sport
    All Stock, 142K miles

  9. #9
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    OSV broken at the neck? Haven't heard of that.

    I confess that I went the external OSV route for the same reason -- I was pissed that a cheap plastic part and small drain tube were buried deep in the engine, where they are hard to get to. And I wondered how long a remotely and incompletely unplugged OSV would stay that way.

    If you go the external route, I highly recommend letting the oil drain back to the sump as several of us have done. See below.

    X5 OSV with return valve.jpg

    Also, on my '02 540i, I found a hose fitting on the driver's side cam cover that was made (but not used) for blow-by gasses. I drilled a hole in the middle and used it. (After blocking the normal path at the CCV. See the hose nipple in the pic below.)

    M62TU Driver's Side Cam Cover.jpg

    One more point to note: I think the main reason, if not the only reason, for putting the OSV inside the engine is to keep the condensation from freezing in the OSV, in very cold climates. You mentioned cold winters in Nebraska. You might prefer an inside OSV, especially if you drive short distances in the winter.
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 10-30-2018 at 10:02 AM.

  10. #10
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    OK so here is what I did, and it appears to be working fantastic.
    1) I removed the throttle body and the mounting plate from the intake manifold. Good thing too, because it was apparent that the gasket between the manifold and the mounting plate was leaking also. Throttle body had lots of soot buildup that I cleaned out.
    2) I found a suitable size rubber stopper and firmly plugged the PCV tube from inside the manifold. I plugged it where the tube connects to the manifold right behind the throttle body plate.
    3) On the rear of the drivers-side valve cover there is a large un-used hose nipple that is plugged up from the factory. I drilled out the hole inside and then ran a 5/8" heater hose down the backside of the engine flush with the bottom of the car.
    Thats it. Crankcase is vented, and all CCVV/OSV problems are stopped. This is the "old school" way to do it, and probably not EPA approved, LOL. However, it works great and it was quick and easy to do!
    2001 740i M-Sport
    All Stock, 142K miles

  11. #11
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    No, not EPA approved, but that should end the oil burning and CCV repairs. And no risk of frozen condensation in an external OSV. However, even with the high point exit for blow-by gasses, you will lose some oil that would otherwise be recaptured with an OSV (internal or external). You might want to keep an eye on that.

    I assume the rubber stopper plugged the tube and you reconnected it at both ends. (You'll want to make sure air isn't flowing in/out of the crankcase at that location, or into the CCV.)

    One last thing to note: Heater hoses typically don't handle oil well. You'll probably find that oil will seep through the walls of the hose, giving it an oily coating. Not a big problem. I saw that on the hoses for my external OSV after a few months and changed them to hoses made for oil/gas.

    And thx for letting us know what you did.
    Last edited by R Shaffner; 11-05-2018 at 10:16 AM.

  12. #12
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    Good tip on the hose material. I have run it through the gears WOT up to 100+mph to see what kind of blow-by I would get. When I checked the hose underneath the car I found its bone dry, no oil at all. All smiles! With the PCV hooked up, it was drinking LOTS of oil. So this mod will be a huge improvement in that department!
    2001 740i M-Sport
    All Stock, 142K miles

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johns01E38 View Post
    OK so here is what I did, and it appears to be working fantastic.
    1) I removed the throttle body and the mounting plate from the intake manifold. Good thing too, because it was apparent that the gasket between the manifold and the mounting plate was leaking also. Throttle body had lots of soot buildup that I cleaned out.
    2) I found a suitable size rubber stopper and firmly plugged the PCV tube from inside the manifold. I plugged it where the tube connects to the manifold right behind the throttle body plate.
    3) On the rear of the drivers-side valve cover there is a large un-used hose nipple that is plugged up from the factory. I drilled out the hole inside and then ran a 5/8" heater hose down the backside of the engine flush with the bottom of the car.
    Thats it. Crankcase is vented, and all CCVV/OSV problems are stopped. This is the "old school" way to do it, and probably not EPA approved, LOL. However, it works great and it was quick and easy to do!
    Question: Did you plug the tube inside the intake manifold or the one under the manifold? If inside the manifold, the stopper and that tube would have to hold pressure well (the intake vacuum would tend to pull both out and let atmosphere in via the OSV and open crankcase.

  14. #14
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    Anyone have a step by step? Would like to do this on my 740il e38

  15. #15
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    Don’t have a step by step, but replaced the metal tube with a high heat flexible red tubing 3/4 from Napa, ran under new OEM CCV to a OEM 2002 X5 external OSV https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...37-11151705238. Ran a 5/8 high temp oil drain line to my oil filter return, but spliced in an in-line fluid check valve (non-return). I then drilled out OEM CCV https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11617501563bmw blocked passage and installed a barbed 3/4 inch fitting into ressed hole drilled and secured with JB welded plastic welder liquid glue. Plugged existing CCV fitting with a rubber tapered stopper, sealed it with JB weld glue also. Then wrapped a rubber cap around that, and close clamped. You don’t want to risk a leak there. Let that sit 24 hours prior to reinstalling (CCV/intake manifold). Ran the 3/4 high heat red hose from the top fitting on the X5 OSV back around back of valve cover to newly attached 3/4 barbed fitting on OEM CCV. Also changed out torx bolts on CCV with hex head, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...er-07119905400 need 8. Also since I pulled the manifold, I replaced everything, front and rear intake manifold seals, front torx bolts on throttle plate, valley pan cover, resealed water pump transfer piping, all intake to block gaskets (orange x4 elring), Bosch type 3 fuel injectors, NGK plugs, Bosch ignition coils, new manifold hold down bolts OEM(using washer hold down hack, check e38.org), cam shaft position sensors, valve cover gaskets. If you get everything through FCPeuro.com, the parts carry a LIFETIME WARRANTY PERIOD. I hope this helps you out.

    P.S....... Please don’t buy the Merle CCV, I did this procedure 3 times with the Meyle before getting the whistling and smoke to stop. All because you have to have the OEM one. Don’t be cheap, Meyle is 33$ a pop, OeM 116.00......Trying to save you a whole bunch of time and money.

  16. #16
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    +1 avoid Meyle CCV at any cost!

  17. #17
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    About the process... There are several ways to fix the problem, so the process depends on what you want to do. This thread might help:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=m62+catch+can

    It also depends on the car. My '02 540 has that blocked hose fitting on the driver's side cam cover. My '97 540 didn't, so that's not an option on older cars. Let us know if you have specific questions.

  18. #18
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    Sorry to dig up this old thread. However I have a 97 540i/6 gang

    Got it for free from my uncle because he does not want to invest the $3500 he was quoted to replace ccv/osv and all related timing chain guides/chain + 25 hours labor @ $94/hour

    The car is not starting at all. The backyard mechanic in me is saying failed fuel pump because it does try to start and I did get it to start for about 1 second... by spraying starting fluid.

    I wanted to know if their is any reason the mentioned osv/ccv would make it not start at all? I just can’t understand why it wouldn’t start at all even if those parts have failed. I’m not trying to get around replacing the osv I just want to know if it would make it not start. I ran inpa software to check any error codes in the memory and no engine related codes show up.

  19. #19
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    OSV and CCV wouldn't cause a no start. Worst they could cause in terms of running is poor idle and smoke.

  20. #20
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    Agreed, you have much bigger problems than OSV if it wont start. Probably intake gaskets, etc.
    2001 740i M-Sport
    All Stock, 142K miles

  21. #21
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    So here’s an update, I unplug the camshaft sensor and it starts. Every time. Doesn’t run well but does start and stay running. I have a new cam sensor on the way

  22. #22
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    I have replaced the "cap" of the CCV valve on 3 different E38s. Use an upholstery V shaped end with a slight angle to pry the cap off the CCV. You can practice how to do it when you pull the new cap off the new CCV you order.
    You don't have to be too careful pulling the old cap off, as long as any damage is to the part being removed. The new one snaps right in place. Fit the spring over the middle, line up the top with the slot, and push straight in until you hear it click all the way around. DONE! With the right tool, it will take about 10 minutes, and no torx bolts to undo. That part of the CCV rarely goes bad; it is the diaphragm that needs to be replaced. Clean up the CCV once you get the old cap off. There will most likely be oil, and maybe some hardened oil too. Hope this helps!
    Tim

  23. #23
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    i put a new cam sensor in the car and it fires up immediately no question asked no extended cranking. the car is an aspen silver/aubergine interior car and i got it for the price of on the house. the only real cosmetic issue is rusty rocker panels.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Shaffner View Post
    OSV broken at the neck? Haven't heard of that.

    I confess that I went the external OSV route for the same reason -- I was pissed that a cheap plastic part and small drain tube were buried deep in the engine, where they are hard to get to. And I wondered how long a remotely and incompletely unplugged OSV would stay that way.

    If you go the external route, I highly recommend letting the oil drain back to the sump as several of us have done. See below.

    X5 OSV with return valve.jpg

    Also, on my '02 540i, I found a hose fitting on the driver's side cam cover that was made (but not used) for blow-by gasses. I drilled a hole in the middle and used it. (After blocking the normal path at the CCV. See the hose nipple in the pic below.)

    M62TU Driver's Side Cam Cover.jpg

    One more point to note: I think the main reason, if not the only reason, for putting the OSV inside the engine is to keep the condensation from freezing in the OSV, in very cold climates. You mentioned cold winters in Nebraska. You might prefer an inside OSV, especially if you drive short distances in the winter.
    Sorry to revive an old thread but do you recall what type of hose you used for your two top lines?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by nasco View Post
    Sorry to revive an old thread but do you recall what type of hose you used for your two top lines?
    Yes. You need to use hose that is suitable for gas/oil. Heater hose won't last long. Eventually the oil will start coming through it.

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