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Thread: E36 Rear clunking (not subframe, not rtab pocket cracks

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    napa, ca
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    '96 328is

    E36 Rear clunking (not subframe, not rtab pocket cracks

    Hey All,

    I have had 5 E36s and I’ve never had this issue. I replaced my RTABs with poly, and all of a sudden I had this clunk any time I hit a bump, cornered hard or jack the car up. It only happens on the left rear.

    So I went back to OEM RTABs.

    Problem is still there.

    The car will not stay aligned. Looks good on paper, but veers right. I’ve had it aligned each time I tweak the suspension. I called the shop to ask about the calibration of their machine and they said they did 45 alignments that day and I’m the only one with the issue.

    Rear tires are brand new 245/40.17 on the rear and less than 5k miles on the 225/45.17 fronts. Running staggered contours.

    Recently did:
    Joni STRT shocks and struts
    RTABs
    FLCABs
    Tie rods
    Replaced steering rack and Guibo


    I’m stumped. I have the alignment sheet and a video of the issue I’ll try and post from my laptop as soon as I can

    Thanks in advance.

    Collin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,433
    My Cars
    1999 BMW M3 Coupe
    What part of your suspension isn't staying aligned? On a stock M3 the only adjustment points are the tie rods for front toe, the lower rear control arm eccentric bolts for rear camber, and the trailing arm bolts for rear toe. If you have camber plates there's obviously those for front camber/caster as well. So, figure out which one of those isn't staying put based on your alignment results and take a look at it.

    As for the clunking, it could be a lot of things and may or may not be related to your alignment issues. I'll be the first to say (among many) that poly RTAB's aren't the best idea. They work, but can bind and squeak at times. Poly isn't a great material for bushings which have to move across more than one axis like an RTAB. Anyways, I assume you did your rear shock mounts when you did your shocks? That's the first thing that comes to mind for "rear clunking". You should also check to make sure your sway bars are attached firmly and that the bushings are in good shape, and also check the diff and rear subframe bolts to make sure everything is tight.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


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