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Thread: 540 loss of power, radio/dash flicker

  1. #1
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    Exclamation 540 loss of power, radio/dash flicker

    So, this isn't the first thread discussing the problem, so I know I'm not alone. But from what I can tell no one has posted a solution, yet.

    Basically, the car will drive perfectly fine, but when coming to a stop, say at a red light, the car will lose power for a fraction of a second. I'm talking electrical power. The radio turns off, the dash warning lights for abs, etc, light up (the way it would when you first put your key in the ignition), and the engine stumbles (the way it does when you turn the car off).

    Keep in mind, this happens in a split second, and the car recovers immediately. This is why I describe it as a "flicker", because everything is back to normal as fast as the fault happened.

    So far, the battery has been tested (ok), and the battery ground strap has been replaced. Neither have remedied the situation. I'm puzzled as to where to go from here. It's not a fatal problem, but I'm worried that it gets worse and maybe even happens when I'm actually driving the car. Any input appreciated.
    Last edited by shogun; 10-22-2018 at 09:05 PM. Reason: double posts merged
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  2. #2
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    Measure the overnight battery voltage, as well as when the engine is running at 1000 RPM. Report back.


    Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

  3. #3
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    Battery is at 14.5-15V this morning. But new problem, the car isn’t receiving the power. It acts the way it would if you had a dead battery, dim dome lights and no attempt to crank...
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  4. #4
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    Check the battery posts, wouldn't be the first time they got jiggled loose

  5. #5
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    ^^^^ 'greed. One would think if you were charging the battery you'd have noticed but its amazing how many times this ends up being the DOH! solution... Check the other side of the ground cable too (where it bolts to the car).

    After that, if all seems fine...
    1. ignition switch ever been changed? and
    2. has it been raining a lot in Ont? Ever checked for water in the passenger footwell? I hate suggesting that all the time but I think I'm running a 50% hit rate with it and thats pretty scary given that electrical problems could come from a lot of causes...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    Former:

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  6. #6
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    So, I guess when they checked the battery they didn’t actually take it out of the car. Because I just did, and the positive terminal is finished, actually pulling out of the battery.

    Swapped for new battery, car started. So there’s that. Not the end of the nightmare unfortunately.

    Now, the car refuses to idle. As soon as you start it, it’ll die. If you give it some revs, against it’s wishes, it’ll stay running. I took the car around the block and it drives perfect. Did hwy pulls and feels fine. No CEL either. But as soon as revs drop below 1k, car dies. This was not an issue prior to the battery swap...????
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  7. #7
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Wow. There ya go.

    So. The weird voltage could have caused it to set some weird codes or adaptations in the engine computer.

    The battery was obviously out of it for a while so the old "leave battery out for a while" reset - which seldom does diddleysht anyway - isn't likely gonna do anything... Can you scan the car at all and reset codes/adaptations? You might just try driving it a little bit and see if it goes away... if its a weird adaptation thing, it might adapt its way back to normal... although I've seen cars that got 'stuck' and had to be reset....
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  8. #8
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    Unfortunately I had to leave the car as is, and won’t be able to fiddle much in the coming days. I do not have a scanner, but I guess I could go rent one from my local parts store.

    I drove it for a good 20 minutes, and like I said it drives great, right up until you hit a red light or stop sign and need to idle... Even if I clutch in doing 70mph on the highway and let the revs drop below ~1000, the car will die. Major confusion, I’ve never had a car run perfect, but refuse to idle.
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  9. #9
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Well thats' not uncommon at all, its actually a super common symptom to experienc, it just isn't something that usually crops up only because the battery died. Usually its a vacuum leak, or fuel pressure or something like that.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  10. #10
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    I’ve ordered new throttle-body to manifold gasket, and will remove the TB to clean the ICV when the gasket arrives. Seems like a good place to start even though this happened out of the blue. Any other suggestions are more than welcomed while I await the part!
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  11. #11
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    Unlock your cluster and report the voltage while running the engine.
    I suspect your voltage regulator or alternator is toast. If the battery post was disconnecting and reconnecting then it could have caused spikes damaging your other electric components.


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  12. #12
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by perryman View Post
    I’ve ordered new throttle-body to manifold gasket,
    Wut? Where'd you get that idea? On M62TU that gasket is almost unnecessary. Big flat faces on either side bolt up around it, I'm pretty sure if you left it out the car woudl run fine. I've seen some well intentioned wrong threads mentioning it before but that is not a failure spot at all. Do not put all your eggs in that basket.

    There's a load of places M6x can have vac leaks, but that AIN'T typically one of 'em.

    Also - (really raining on that posts parade...) You do not HAVE an ICV on an M62TU. So that's not a basket for eggs either sadly. The Throttle Body acts as the ICV because the motor is full DBW.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TheAngryBear View Post
    Unlock your cluster and report the voltage while running the engine.
    I suspect your voltage regulator or alternator is toast. If the battery post was disconnecting and reconnecting then it could have caused spikes damaging your other electric components.
    Not bad suggestion at all ^^^^
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  13. #13
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    I had read a thread in which at least 5 people claiming my idle issue solved it by replacing that gasket. It was a $15 part so I’m not too bent if it doesn’t work. Thanks for the tip on the ICV though, I assumed that having an ICV hose meant having an ICV as well, clearly I was wrong.

    I had thought about the alternator as well. That maybe it’s on its way out and can’t provide the car with enough juice at idle to keep it running. But if that were the case, the car should be able to idle if parked in my driveway with a fully charged battery + being hooked up to a battery tender under the hood, no?

    And lastly, I’m not sure how to report back with the voltage at idle when I can’t get the car to idle... And is the voltage regulator part of the alternator on these cars or is it elsewhere? (i.e. if that were the problem, I’d just swap out the alternator, right?)
    Last edited by perryman; 10-24-2018 at 10:01 AM.
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  14. #14
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    IT IDLES! I rented a scanner, unplugged the MAF so a code would appear (can’t reset ECM without a code present with the scanner I got) and reset. Car still won’t idle when cold, but once it’s warmed up, it sits at ~600 smooth as butter. So there’s progress, at least!

    Sorry for the rollercoaster I’ve brought some of you on. Just gotta find whatever it is stopping the car from idling when cold now, and hopefully all will be resolved. Fingers crossed.
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

  15. #15
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    Gasket replaced, problem solved. Amazing. Car idles and drives like a dream again. Cheers!
    ............................................1996 328is / Technoviolett on Magma............................................

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