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Thread: Car pulls right, even worse when braking

  1. #26
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    Forgot to post this but here are pads, one on left appears if tho the very right side was not contacting rotor. Perhaps the caliper is disengaging a only on one side?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by alang1990 View Post
    Actually OP, I have a hunch. Want to give it a try ? Open the bleeder nipple for the offending calliper and squeeze the piston. Brake fluid will come out, and possibly solidified dirt right behind the piston. Solidified dirt near the brake line may also venture out - perhaps that's whats causing the problem.

    A bit of a long shot but hey. Anyway, that is the correct way to bleed brakes - the callipers need to be depressed a few times to get the mud out.

    Make sure you are topping up the reservoir constantly when you do this do not let air get sucked into the reservoir.
    Ah Ive heard of this method when checking for bad caliper. So i pull off caliper and then compress the piston with a c clamp like I did today to install? But with bleeder open. Why do this method rather than normal bleeding where I just hit brakes? Is this in a way bleeding from different direction?

  3. #28
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    I've heard of cases where the brake hose attached to the caliper deteriorates internally to the point where it blocks the release of hydraulic pressure at the caliper. If you're going to replace calipers, you may want to think about new hoses, especially if they look like they're original.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgraybeard View Post
    I've heard of cases where the brake hose attached to the caliper deteriorates internally to the point where it blocks the release of hydraulic pressure at the caliper. If you're going to replace calipers, you may want to think about new hoses, especially if they look like they're original.
    Without thoroughly inspecting they look like they’ve been replaced, assuming a 26 year old brake hose that lived in the south doesnt have little cracks everywhere. Probably a good idea to replace though.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmile46 View Post
    Ah Ive heard of this method when checking for bad caliper. So i pull off caliper and then compress the piston with a c clamp like I did today to install? But with bleeder open. Why do this method rather than normal bleeding where I just hit brakes? Is this in a way bleeding from different direction?
    No, this is a brake bleeding method. It is called piston bleeding. And the normal bleeding usually does not remove heavier crud collecting at the bottom of the calliper, right behind the piston. The normal bleeding has the nipple at the top because air bubbles naturally rise to the top and bleeding is only supposed to get rid of air bubbles.

    But there is crud and that affects braking. Get rid of the crud and its all better even for normal braking.

    And you don't need a G clamp. Just open the bleeder and squeeze a flat head screwdriver in and squeeze the piston in. Stuff will spurt out the nipple. Then Press the brake pedal in all the way (making sure you have oil at the fluid reservoir - maybe fix up a bottle on top of it with extra brake fluid, with something sealing it against the mouth of the reservoir). New brake fluid will move out and force the calliper out again. Go squeeze it in again with the bleeder open. Do this 2 times after you see clear fluid run out - to see this more easily put transparent tubing over the open bleeder nipple fed into a clear bottle.

    If you're lucky, any debris that is causing any blockages in your brake lines will be removed this way.

    If you see a lot of debris coming out, and if this method fixes your problem, strongly recommend you proceed to do this with all your wheels. If it doesn't and you're stuck with rebuilding or installing another calliper, you will need to rebleed later and then you can do it for all the wheels instead of now.

    This process is of course time consuming if you are doing it all by yourself. If you have someone helping you press the brake pedal on your command, you will only need and extra 5 minutes per wheel.

    The extra brake fluid used up is well worth it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If you replace the brake hoses, do that with all the wheels, and use stainless steel lines instead of stock rubber hoses. Stock are good but are about the same price as stainless steel ones or only slightly more expensive.

    If you do this only buy from reputed companies like ecs tuning etc. Don't buy generic ebay stuff.
    Last edited by alang1990; 11-01-2018 at 02:20 AM.

  6. #31
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    Ahh thank you so much for the instructions! Bleeding brakes is one thing I’ve never done and have always been intimidated by it! I suppose I’ll give this shot, either way I’ll need to bleed!

  7. #32
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    Well in process of replacing caliper. To start my brake pad that was always being applied literally broke in half. I guess thats from the overheating. So i went out and got pads. And turns out my new rebuilt caliper is too f***in small. Great. Now I need to leave car in air and return these. Also when I tried cracking bleeder on old caliper it broke right off! And no fluid came out. I disconnected brake line and fluid did come out so like isn’t clogged but that bleeder must’ve been.

  8. #33
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    By design, unless you unseat the taper for the bleeder, it will not release fluid, even if you break it off.
    -Alex

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by AHenry014 View Post
    By design, unless you unseat the taper for the bleeder, it will not release fluid, even if you break it off.
    Ah good to know!

  10. #35
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    Is there a certain brand you guys have had luck with in terms of reman calipers? This is the second time Ive purchased something specific for my e34 from oreillys and it doesn’t fit! Never again. Jeez who the f*** designs their parts. First an axle that the bolts wouldn’t even line up, now a caliper.

  11. #36
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    depending on your car, you may want to look into 540i brakes and do an oem upgrade. check rock auto or look for 540i brakes. My calipers were in need of replacement, i scored rotors and calipers off of a 540i for 200 bux, they were new rotors and i had to rebuild the 540 calipers but i did and now i enjoy the upgraded stopping power on my 535. It definitely was an improvement over my oe brakes. edit - also you may want to consider replacing the brake lines as over time they will start to swell and internally degrade.
    Last edited by Neel; 11-07-2018 at 06:59 PM.
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neel View Post
    depending on your car, you may want to look into 540i brakes and do an oem upgrade. check rock auto or look for 540i brakes. My calipers were in need of replacement, i scored rotors and calipers off of a 540i for 200 bux, they were new rotors and i had to rebuild the 540 calipers but i did and now i enjoy the upgraded stopping power on my 535. It definitely was an improvement over my oe brakes. edit - also you may want to consider replacing the brake lines as over time they will start to swell and internally degrade.
    Mines 525i so I could have upgraded however I just ordered a rebuilt centric caliper. Not looking to replace all my brakes. Already mad enough I had to buy new pads. I should do brakelines though!

  13. #38
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    For even brake performance calipers should really be replaced in pairs. One company's rebuild is not the same as another's.
    demet

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    For even brake performance calipers should really be replaced in pairs. One company's rebuild is not the same as another's.
    I figured. Im afraid my other one is on way out so we’ll see how it drives.


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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    For even brake performance calipers should really be replaced in pairs. One company's rebuild is not the same as another's.
    I disagree.
    While quality may vary the construction of the caliper remains the same. If it is working it will do the same thing, applying the same force.
    An older properly functioning caliper is just as good as new or re-man one.
    If the opposing older caliper has sticky hardware braking can be uneven so the slides need to be free on both ends of the axle. I think this is the problem some have experienced and wrongly attributed it to a faulty caliper or the need for matched pairs.
    Calipers work, no leaks and able to move freely, or they don't.

    Some also replace a perfectly good headlight when the other side burns out.
    Last edited by ross1; 11-09-2018 at 06:58 AM.

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  16. #41
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    Not if they had to use an oversized piston in the rebuild.
    demet

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    Quote Originally Posted by demetk View Post
    Not if they had to use an oversized piston in the rebuild.
    That's a valid point if it were done but my understanding is that sleeving the bores is the industry norm to repair a badly corroded one. Given the abundance of most cores I doubt this is even done very often.
    If a particular re-man does have a larger bore what is to say the next one on the shelf will too?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  18. #43
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    It would be unacceptable to all but the most unscrupulous remanufacturers - which, unfortunately, are out there - to change piston diameter on a brake caliper, precisely because that'll upset brake balance in a way that's difficult to rectify. It's like buying a 15" wheel that comes with "oh, by the way, we had to machine it down because of curb rash, it's a 14 now."

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    It would be unacceptable to all but the most unscrupulous remanufacturers - which, unfortunately, are out there - to change piston diameter on a brake caliper, precisely because that'll upset brake balance in a way that's difficult to rectify. It's like buying a 15" wheel that comes with "oh, by the way, we had to machine it down because of curb rash, it's a 14 now."
    IF it were done, we have to assume very small changes, I don't think the bias would be dramatic, maybe not noticeable at all. I think the main reason is that parts, especially seals would probably need to be bespoke which equals $$, the bane of all rebuilders.
    Last edited by ross1; 11-09-2018 at 03:39 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  20. #45
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    Im gonna go head and assume piston size stayed same. If I install and car is now diving to the left then maybe I’ll look into it. Caliper arrives tomorrow so if im not out of town picking up an e23 then I’ll finally get to replacing!

  21. #46
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    E23?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    E23?
    Found a nice little project e23 a couple hours away. 4 speed manual m30 b33/34. Don’t need it but can’t resist it. Unfortunately im second in line to someone checking it out today

  23. #48
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    IMG_0503.jpg

    For the love of Christ, this caliper has is too small too!?? Wtf!! This is 2 different brands now that are too small. You can just look at them and see how much wider the original one is. This one like the other will not fit around the pads. Nor will the new bracket fit around the rotor. Am I F***ing something up or what? This is a Centric rebuilt caliper from Rock auto. What brands do you guys use??? Because now here we are, with my e34 stuck on jackstands still.

  24. #49
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    Is it possible you have 540i/M5 front brakes? Post the part numbers on the rotors, the original calipers, and the remans.

  25. #50
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    Car pulls right, even worse when braking

    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Is it possible you have 540i/M5 front brakes? Post the part numbers on the rotors, the original calipers, and the remans.
    I did not think of that! And part numbers are different! IMG_0507.jpg
    Original is 60/28/302

    Reman is 60/22/302
    IMG_0510.jpg

    So what is this telling me?


    Edit: I now see that my calipers are in fact 540i! Welp that explains my issue here. Thats pretty cool though! Lol. But in terms of the new pads I bought, will those not fit now?! Or do pads remain the same?
    Last edited by jmile46; 11-10-2018 at 08:56 PM.

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