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Thread: 540i almost stalls if you tap the gas pedal, what could be?

  1. #1
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    540i almost stalls if you tap the gas pedal, what could be?

    So I have noticed that the car sometimes makes vibration while idling, mostly runs fine, then it can make slight vibration, and if I tap the gas pedal fast, it will go below 500rpm, almost stall, then goes back up again.
    I am thinking maybe vacuum leak, maybe maf?
    However when I took a code reader at work, didn't show any error codes.

    What are the common issues with M62B44TU, with those symptoms.

    Never had that on my E38, but that had M60

    Spark plugs been changed under 100km ago.


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  2. #2
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Disconnect the MAF and see if it runs better.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Disconnect the MAF and see if it runs better.
    I will try tommorow mate, was thinking of that also.

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  4. #4
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    Disconnect only with engine stopped.


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  5. #5
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    I have replaced so many parts on my 540i. Experiencing the same symptoms as you, I am convinced it's down to vacuum leaks. Just when you think you have everything sealed, look a little harder and you will find another.
    All of the of vacuum lines perish into dust, but also the breather pipe under the intake manifold (mine was split at the rubber section, as well as a flattened o-ring) the intake manifold itself has a bunch of seals that all become flat and don't seal well, valve and timing cover gaskets as well as the vanos solenoid gaskets can cause vacuum leaks, cracked intake boot, the brake booster hoses and probably a bunch more that I am forgetting.

    The high operating temperatures of these engines DESTROYS any rubber and plastic. If you have the ability to get a smoke test, try it and you'll see the engine will seem to more like a seive with smoke coming out of everywhere.

    I've replaced the throttle body, maf (several times) spark plugs at close intervals, fluids and filters on an enthusiastic schedule along with a ton of other parts to no avail ( mostly preventative or repairs), but what did I find recently? Passenger bank timing cover gasket, an o-ring and a solenoid gasket all spewing smoke, that's AFTER refreshing every vacuum line, gasket and seal I could find apart from those listed.

    Vanos tested by a BMW tech with an auto logic as well as an ista and was found to be "perfectly within specifications". His words.

    Good luck!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shwy View Post

    Vanos tested by a BMW tech with an auto logic as well as an ista and was found to be "perfectly within specifications". His words.

    Good luck!
    How many miles on your vanos?
    If it's close to 100K the o-rings are toast.
    Your vanos may function but you will be leaking oil past the seals which will effect how quickly they advance/retard the intake cams.

  7. #7
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    157k. the test(s) was a full advance and full retard I believe referencing the camshaft position sensor, passed every time being well within tolerances and was very consistent...

    After reading an absolute mountain of information and anecdotes about the M62TUB44 vanos and their "failure" as well as the absurd rattle they make, I have a personal theory about where the problem may REALLY lie. But the hypothesis will be proven or disproven in the coming months and if there's any success, I'll make a post about it. We will see I guess...too much to waffle on about without me threadjacking a post!

    I absolutely realise this goes against the grain considerably, I'm just one of those that has to see it for themself.
    Last edited by shwy; 10-22-2018 at 11:45 PM.

  8. #8
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    for OP, I say: vac leaks, MAF, possibly bad ignition (bad plugs or plug boots, or, weak coils, although these particular coils tend to hard-fail aka full misfires or totally fine...)
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    for OP, I say: vac leaks, MAF, possibly bad ignition (bad plugs or plug boots, or, weak coils, although these particular coils tend to hard-fail aka full misfires or totally fine...)
    Maf unplugged
    https://youtu.be/0jF2yr2TUmI
    Maf plugged
    https://youtu.be/TUf2tODaPYE
    I am not sure, but it seems it holds rpms much better with Maf unplugged.
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  10. #10
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    Sounds like a bad ignition coil/s. I have the same issue a month ago. Engine runs fine up until I tap the gas pedal quick, it wants to stall. Jerks or stalls while on high gear when you give it a quick tap on the gas pedal. No codes showing. Turns out one of the coil is not putting enough voltage. Problem solved.


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  11. #11
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nike32 View Post
    Maf unplugged
    https://youtu.be/0jF2yr2TUmI
    Maf plugged
    https://youtu.be/TUf2tODaPYE
    I am not sure, but it seems it holds rpms much better with Maf unplugged.
    OK - but be aware - sometimes the "MAF unplugged better" still means vac leaks.

    MAF-unplugged falls back to default failsafe maps for the motor. When there's a vac leak, most of the time, the motor is still really operating at "expected VE mass/RPM relationships" its just getting the air slipping through the wrong spots, which is why the default-failsafe-maps run better - sometimes perfectly - on a vac-leaky motor... So... don't be sure 100% that that means the MAF is bad. I mean, maybe it is. But might not be.

    I like to look at actual MAF readings in INPA and compare to whats "normal" and see if it looks off to determine if the MAF is going out...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


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